As I’ve hinted at many times, Gewurztraminerisn’t always a guaranteed winner with me – sometimes it’s glorious, but sometimes it doesn’t quite sit right – some of the elements out of kilter. When the DNS Wine Club met recently for an all-Alsace tasting, two Gewurz were the value-for-money and money-no-object winners of the night – much to everyone’s surprise!
Sipp-Mack has been a favourite producer of mine for several years, and one I was able to visit when over in Hunawihr a few years ago. Their Rosacker Grand Cru Riesling is a regular tipple at Ely – the whole range has great depth of flavour. At the time this wine was made the winery was “in conversion” to organic practices, and are now certified.
The helpful label on the back describes the sweetness of this wine as “medium” – and at 51 g/L of residual sugar it would never be mistaken for dry. It’s one of the most remarkably balance Gewurz I’ve ever had – lots of lychee, floral and ginger flavours from the old vines but also acidity to balance that sweetness. This is as good as some of the Grand Cru Gewurz wines I’ve had from other producers – a veritable bargain.
I happened across the little shop front of Léon Beyer after buying several cases from Domaine Bruno Sorg in the same village of Eguisheim. Leaving my wife in a souvenir shop I dashed through the wines open for tasting. “The house style is dry” said the lady at the counter, “apart from the sweet wines”. Although this might sound like nonsense, of course she was referring to the Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) and Sélection de Grains Nobles (botrytised grapes) dessert wines. The dry wines were indeed dry, and lovely, but this late harvest wine really stood out.
Opening an 18 year old wine does leave you a bit on edge, but I needn’t have worried – it was magnificent. And so fresh! It didn’t taste in the slightest bit tired. The Léon Beyer website give a drinking window of 10 to 20 years from vintage, but this tasted like it had another decade left at least. Some measure of the wine’s rarity can be garnered from the fact that only 4 more vintages have been produced since the 1998.
Although not cheap at around €40 (for 750ml) in France, this wine was jaw-droppingly good. If I’d had another bottle I might have been mugged for it by the rest of the wine club!
If you cast your mind back all the way to February of this year, you may remember that supermarket group Lidl launched a limited release of new French wines in Ireland (here are my posts on the Redsand Whites).
Now they’re going to do the same with a batch of Italian wines, set for release on Monday 13th June, and available while stocks last. The wines in this batch don’t reach quite as high as the more expensive French ones did, but they are still worth seeking out.
Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2014 (12.5%, €9.99)
Gavi is the town in Piedmont (NW Italy) where this wine is made from the Cortese grape (which I always think sounds like a family from The Godfather) – and the wine is sometimes usefully called Cortese di Gavi, in case you forget. Wines from the production area closest to the town are called Gavi di Gavi as we have here.
By the way, if that’s all too confusing, feel free to call it “Gavin”. The wine won’t mind either way.
The wine is clean and unoaked, with pear and stone fruit flavours. It has some texture too, so it could stand up against seafood and lighter chicken dishes. Make sure you give it a chance to warm a little if it’s been in the fridge for a while.
Soave Classico DOC 2015 (12.0%, €9.99)
I suspect I’m not the only person who has been put off “Soave” by the cheap swill on the cheapest supermarket or convenience store shelves – but when it’s done right, it can be a very pleasant drink. Trademark Italian acidity is still there but with soft citrus, pear and apple fruit. The perfect drink for sitting in the back garden – especially if someone else is doing the gardening!
Barbera d’Asti DOCG 2015 (12.5%, €7.99)
Barbera is the grape here and Asti is the province in north-west Italy where it’s made – together with Alexandria next door. As part of Piedmont (or Piemonte to the locals) it tends to fall into the shadow of Nebbiolo, especially Barolo and Barbareseco, the “King and Queen” of the area. Barbera can make top class wines, but even the more economical end of the market gives some very drinkable examples such as this. It’s full of soft, juicy red and black fruit, with a slight smokiness. Remarkable for the price.
Teroldego is the grape in this wine. Haven’t heard of it? don’t worry, neither had I! It’s from the Trentino area of northern Italy, Superiore meaning it’s 12.0% minimum and Riserva meaning it has spent at least 24 months maturing before release.
This wine has lots of character – it’s zippier than a gobshite from Rainbow! Super fresh acidity makes it mouthwateringly tasty and really food friendly.
At first glance this might appear a bit more expensive than the other wines – but it’s a double sized bottle! Magnums are great fun at parties, so buy a few for a BBQ and you’re sorted! Nero d’Avola is a popular grape in Sicily, giving spice, dark berries and chocolate. It’s very drinkable, just make sure you don’t get carried away on a school night!
Larger format bottles are nearly all named after Biblical figures such as Methuselah and Salmanazar – the Magnum is the exception as it was named after a Private Investigator*
Salice Salentino DOC Riserva 2013 (13.5%, €9.99)
Now we’re in the heel of Italy’s boot, in Puglia. Salice Salentino is the staple of Italian restaurants everywhere – for good reason! It’s made from the Negroamaro grape which translates as “black and bitter”, but if there is any bitterness it is pleasant. What it does have is spicy black fruit, and it’s so more-ish! A barbecue wine that you will want to carry on drinking after the food has all disappeared.
Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2011 (13.5%, €9.99)
Up to now, all the wines I’ve recommended have been in the easy drinking style. This is a bit different – not for the uninitiated, unless you are prepared to try something new. The heart of Tuscan wine is Chianti, particularly the original central area which is now Chianti Classico.
This is a Riserva – aged in barrel for 24 month then 3 further months in bottle. It has the full on Chianti experience – tobacco, liquorice, cherry and a touch of vanilla. This should keep for another five years at least, and will soften and mellow over that time. Who am I kidding? This is going to be drunk within a week!
Here are brief notes on a few of my favourite French wines from the O’Briens Wine Fair that are included in their current French Wine Sale – but hurry, it ends at midnight on Tuesday 24th May!
3 months lees (fermentation yeast) stirring then 12 months maturing in older oak give buttered toast aromas and flavours. Serve it blind to a Burgundy snob!
Rich, cosseting, sumptuous, round, mellow – still young, but very approachable already – unlike some oak monster Meursaults which need half a decade to be drinkable.
Big, powerful, rich, fine, smooth, blueberries and blackberries – you get the picture, this is a mightily impressive wine. It’s just starting to show some development and come out of its shell, but this 100% Syrah will still be mighty fine in to 10 years’ time.
A seven grape blend of Bordeaux varieties and local Languedoc favourites. It combines power with freshness – quite a feat. An excellent wine which showcases what the Languedoc can do.
Inspired by a comment from Mr Richie Magnier of The Motley Cru, here are 10 wines / grapes / regions / producers with some connection – however tenuous – to the name FRANKIE! If this seems somewhat vain, well maybe it is, but hopefully also a bit of fun…
1. Cabernet Franc (Loire & Bordeaux)
From Viala & Vermorel – Ampélographie
So we kick off with one of the classiest Francs around, a stalwart black grape of Loire and Bordeaux that’s also becoming quite trendy in Argentina.
In Bordeaux it’s a useful blending component on both Left and Right banks, especially as it ripens before its offspring Cabernet Sauvignon. In fact, in Bourg, Saint-Emilion and Pomerol it’s not usual for “Cabernets” plural to indicate a mix of the two without giving their relative proportions.
In the Loire Cab Franc is important in Saumur, Chinon, Anjou and Bourgueil. It’s often a single varietal here, whether as a red or a rosé such as Cabernet d’Anjou.
2. Blaufränkisch / Kékfrankos
In case you weren’t aware, these two names are the same grape in different languages – German and Hungarian respectively. The origin stems from the colour – blue – and the supposed more noble Frankish(well I’m hardly going to disagree with that!) origins of Charlemagne’s Franks.
Blaufränkisch is grown across central Europe including Austria, the Czech Republic and many parts of former Yugoslavia, with just a few brave pioneers trying it in Adelaide Hills and Washington State.
3. Frank Phélan
Château Phélan Ségur of Saint-Estèphe in the Médoc was founded by Irishman Bernard Phelan who acquired and joined two existing estates in the early 1800s. On his death the Château passed to his son Frank who spent a total of thirty years as the Mayor of the town.
The second wine of Phélan Ségur is named after Frank, and is both cheaper and more approachable than the Grand Vin. It often receives accolades for quality v price (well this is Bordeaux) and its big and bold fruit shouldn’t be a surprise when you find out that Michel Rolland is the consulting oenologist here.
4. Ezerjó
What? Who? Where? According to St Jancis of Robinson this is apparently a white Hungarian wine grape grown primarily in the Mór region which is mainly used for dessert wines. And?? In the listings of the Vitis International Variety Catalogue (essential reading, I’m sure you’ll agree) Ezerjó is also known by the synonyms Biella, Budai Feher, Budicsin, Budicsina, Cirfondli, Ezer Jo, Feher Bakator, Feher Budai, Feher Sajgo, Feher Szagos, Frank, Kerekes, Kolmreifer, Kolmreifler, Konreifler, Korpavai, Korponai, Korponoi, Matyok, Predobre, Refosco, Refosco Weiss, Romandi, Satoki, Scheinkern, Scheinkernweiss, Shaikern, Staloci, Szadocsina, Szadoki, Szatoki, Szatoky, Tausendfachgute, Tausendgerte, Tausendgut, Tausendgute, and Trummertraube.
Wake up, you missed it! I put it in boldand you fell asleep! Shame on you!
5. Dr Frank Wine Cellars (Finger Lakes)
Dr Konstantin Frank emigrated to New York State from the Ukraine in 1951. After years of research he became convinced that Vitis Vinifera (proper vines) could flourish in the cool climate of upstate New York if they were grafted onto the right rootstock.
He founded Vinifera Wine Cellars in 1962 and his Rieslings soon became successful. The company is now run by the third generation with the fourth in training! Rumours that Dr Frank used to gig with Dr John could not be confirmed.
6. Franken
Known as Franken in German or Franconia in English, this is one of Germany’s quality wine regions, and is the only wine region within Bavaria (I understand they make beer there as well).
The wines made are nearly always single varietals rather than blends and tend to be dry – even more dry than they have to be under German labelling laws.
The tasty-but-unfashionable Sylvaner is reputed to hit its heights here, though there is still more of the workhorse Müller-Thurgau at the moment.
Franconian wines are often easy to spot by their round, flattened flask shaped bottle known as a Bocksbeutel.
7. Frank Family Vineyards
In the heart of Napa Valley is the winery belonging to former Disney big cheese Rich Frank (I presume short for Richard, or perhaps he is just very wealthy).
Established as the Larkmead Winery in 1884, the building is now on the National Register of Historical Places and is listed as a Point of Historical Interest in the state of California. Wines made here include the usual Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Petite Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon but also Sangiovese.
8. Bleasdale Frank Potts
Bleasdale winery was founded in 1850 by English-born Frank Potts in Langhorne Creek, South Australia. The firm remains in family hands – now onto the 6th generation – and so their flagship Cabernet blend is named after the founder.
This wine actually ticks five out of the six permitted black varieties in Bordeaux – Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Bravo, Frank!
9. Francis Ford Coppola Winery
When The Godfather was a critical and financial success for director Francis Ford Coppola he splashed out on a winery in Sonoma County, and quietly made wines there without ever referring to his film career.
Okay that last bit is a lie! Among the many levels of Mr Coppola’s portfolio you can find both the Director’s and Director’s Cut ranges – including the limited release “Cinema” blend – alongside the quotation: “Winemaking and filmmaking are two great art forms” stated by….Francis Ford Coppola of course!
10.Frankly Wines
And finally…
No, this isn’t my blog, it’s another Frankly Wines – it’s a wine shop in New York City run by Christy Frank, previously of LVMH’s US operation (which is where Kevin Judd (of Greywacke and formerly Cloudy Bay) knows her from – and he once thought my Frankly Wines t-shirt referred to her shop!). Ok, no more brackets.
Hunter Valley Semillon is rightly regarded as an “Australian Original”, with magnificent examples coming from Tyrrell’s, McWilliam’s and the like. Picked early in the harvest season it is generally light and fairly modest in alcohol – and, it has to be said, somewhat simple in flavour when young. However, over time it grows in complexity with layers of honey and toastiness added to the primary citrus. It often tastes oaked when it has been nowhere near an oak barrel.
Barossa Semillon, made around a thousand miles to the west, is a different beast entirely. The grapes are usually picked when fully ripe and maturation in oak barrels is common for Semillon, just as for Shiraz, Cabernet and Chardonnay.
The Barossa Valley is based around the small towns of Tanunda, Nuriootpa and Angaston, north east of Adelaide in the state of South Australia. It’s a very picturesque area – well yes, most wine regions are – but in particular shows the rich Germanic heritage of the area. The small village of Bethany is the home of Bethany Wines. It was the first part of the Barossa to be settled, with the Schrapel family planting their first vines in 1852. The family firm is now run by brothers Geoff and Robert Schrapel from the 5th generation and some of their children now forming the 6th generation.
Among the Bethany portfolio is this delicious Semillon. The alcohol is not that high at 12.5% but is a few pips higher than a traditional Hunter Valley Sem. During maturation it spent some time in French hogsheads which is definitely discernible, though not at all overdone. In both aromas and flavours there’s a blend of fresh citrus and mellow honey – and it’s totally delicious!
It’s sort of like drinking a dry Sauternes – which might sound funny, but actually makes a bit of sense when you consider that Semillon is one of the main grapes in Sauternes and is often barrel aged. And the G6 monicker? That refers to the 6th generation of the Schrapel family of course!
Altitude is even more important than latitude in Argentina – in terms of the weather patterns in the vineyard and the perceived quality of the wine. The search for good vineyard sites continues in Argentina, with new parts of the wine heartland Mendoza Valley being tried, plus further north in Salta such as in the Colchaqui Valley (pictured above).
The DNS Wine Club met to examine both whites and reds from Argentina, both varietals and blends. The whites were published on The Taste here: Hi Ho Silver(I wonder how many people got the pun in the title?) Now it’s the turn of the reds:
Susana Balbo Crios Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Mendoza) (€16.25 down to €14.65, Wines Direct – Arnotts & online)
14.0%, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Susana Balbo is the most recognised and celebrated oenologist in Argentina and has been at the forefront of innovation and quality improvements for decades. Key notes are plum and redcurrant (surprisingly more than blackcurrant), joined by a touch of vanilla from oak barrels. The soft tannins and silky smooth texture make this a delicious wine to enjoy in front of a roaring fire, or perhaps with a big juicy steak. Great value.
Amalaya produce a fantastic range of wines (also check out their Torrontés Riesling blend) of which this is a fairly modest member. Based in the highlands of Salta, the vineyards start at a mile high (1,600m) and keep climbing. Warm days and cool nights promote thicker skins than in lower vineyards (giving more intense flavours) and help maintain acidity (making the wines taste fresher).
This blend is more than the sum of its parts – ripe plum from the Malbec, pepper and spice from the Syrah plus a savoury edge from the Cabernet. Narrowly missed out on the best red of the tasting.
At “only” 850m – 1,100m the vineyards for this wine are considered to be in the foothills (for reference, Croagh Patrick’s summit is 764m). Although located in what is usually referred to as the New World, the Estate dates back to 1895 which makes it fairly old in my book. The vines for this bottle are 15 years of age or older giving classic Malbec characters.
If anybody, anywhere, tells you that “all Malbecs taste the same, there’s no point spending more than xx Euros on one” then you have my permission to shoot them (not that I think it would be a valid defence in a court of law). The Colomé winery dates back to 1831 – older than many Rioja Bodegas, for example. There are actually four separate estates at altitudes between 1,700m and 3,111m, each adding something to the blend of the Estate Malbec.
For such a big, alcoholic wine it is remarkably refined, delicate and long. Blackberry, blackcurrant and black cherry characters are the key, with supple tannins supplying the structure. A fantastic wine!
As you might have read on this blog I am a big fan of Portuguese wines, both white and red. They are often made using indigenous grapes which aren’t known well (if at all) outside the country so are interesting, taste good, and are nearly always great value for money.
The first Saturday in April was a washout, but thankfully the day was made a little brighter by Sweeney’s of Glasnevin who opened some Portuguese wine for tasting. Here are my brief notes:
Portuga Branco VR Lisboa 2014 ( 12.0%, €12)
A blend of Arinto, Vital and Fernão Pires from around Lisbon. Light and refreshing, quite simple and straightforward, but nothing wrong with that. Citrus notes with a crisp finish. Did you notice the low abv of 9.5%? I didn’t when tasting it [update: because Google got it wrong on this occasion ]!
Quinta do Cardo Branco 2011 €14.50
This white is a blend of Siria (which I’d never heard of before) and Arinto (which is far more common). The grapes are “ecologically grown” (which I suppose might mean organic) in vineyards at 700 metres elevation.
Compared to the Portuga above it has a more sophisticated nose, with orange in particular showing through. The palate is less expressive, however. This might be due to its age – most whites like this are consumed young. Some inexpensive wines do develop further after their initial fruit has faded – like this ten year old Chilean Gewurz – but there is only trial and error to find out!
Lab VR Lisboa Tinto 2014 (13.0%, €12)
And now on to the reds. This cheap and cheerful number is a blend of Castelão (35%), Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo, 25%), Syrah (25%) and Touriga Nacional (15%). After fermentation it is aged in new Portuguese oak for 4 months.
A quick taste and details of the blend are forgotten. It’s soft and fruity, a very approachable wine. Lots of cherry and other red fruits, but fresh, not confected nor sour. Immensely gluggable!
Segredos de São Miguel VR Alentejano 2015 (13.5%, €12 or 2 for €22)
This time the blend is Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez (aka Tempranillo, again), Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira. It’s made in the Alentejo region but is a Vinho Regional (VR) rather than a DOC, and the back label suggests it’s a fun rather than serious wine.
On tasting I’d have to agree that it’s fun, but although nice it is very young indeed (only six months old?) It shows promise but needs to relax and come out of its shell – perhaps in time for the annual week of Dublin sunshine?
Vale da Mata VR Lisboa Tinto 2010 (13.0%, €20)
Although only a VR, the back label does state that this is from the Sub-Região Alta Estremadura. Estremadura is the historical name for the province around Lisbon and in fact was the previous name of the VR Lisboa, so perhaps this is an indicator of quality.
After the Lab and the Segredos de São Miguel this is a bit more serious. It has darker fruit and a touch of tannin (steak here we come!). On its own it was good, but not great – I think it definitely needs food to shine.
Herdade de Rocim VR Alentejano Tinto 2010 (14.0%, €19)
We almost have a full house of varieties here: Aragonez, Alicante Bouchet, Syrah, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira. As you might expect it is full of dark fruit, particularly blackberries and plums. Note the vintage – 2010 – it’s already showing some development, with violets and pencil shavings on the nose.
Among the higher priced reds on show this was definitely my favourite. Given the flavour profile and structure it reminded me of an Haut Médoc from a ripe vintage (such as 2010 in fact). Interestingly (and reassuringly), when I last took notes on (the same vintage of) this wine nearly two years ago I recommended it to Claret lovers. This wine and I are on the same page!
Herdade de Sobroso DOC Alentejo Tinto 2013 (14.0%, €22)
The back label for this wine states that it is made from the “noble” varieties of the Alentejo, later revealing them to be Aragonez (30%), Trincadeira (30%), Alicante Bouschet (20%) and Alfrocheiro (20%). This last grape was another one new to me, apparently favoured for the deep colour it brings to blends, and amusingly also known as Tinta Bastardinha.
“Barrique Select” on the front lets you know it has been aged in oak – and a wine geek like me would presume 225 litre French oak barrels, though the back reveals this to be only partly true; the wine was indeed matured in French oak barrels for 12 months, with the forest (Alier) even specified, but in 500 rather than 225 litre barrels. If this seems like splitting hairs, perhaps it is, but the larger sized barrels add a certain roundness as much as oakiness.
I liked this wine, but I think it suffered from being after the Herdade de Rocim which had more intense flavours. I’d like to give this wine another try in a big wine glass after a few hours in a decanter – I suspect it would really open up.
As it’s the long Eostre / Easter weekend my wife suggested roast lamb, which got a thumbs up from me as I’m very partial to lamb (sorry Flossie). There are a few classic wine matches for lamb; Saint-Emilion or Crianza / Reserva Rioja. As I happened to have a sample bottle of Crianza Rioja to hand the game was afoot!
Sierra Cantabria Rioja Crianza 2010 (14.0%, €17.95, O’Briens)
Rioja is traditionally made with a large majority of Tempranillo grapes, supported by small amounts of Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo. American oak is typically used for maturation before bottling, with the length of time linked to classification as Joven, Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva. All this together gives a “strawberries and cream” effect, especially for Crianzas.
But this wine didn’t taste like that at all!
Rather than strawberry or any other red fruit, the palate had dark, black fruit – blackberry and damsons. Instead of creamy vanilla there was a smoky, savoury edge. If I had been given this wine to try blind I think the closest I would have guessed would have been Ribero del Duero, not Rioja at all.
However, I should have read the “small print”. Not all Rioja Crianzas are supposed to taste like strawberries and cream! Modern style Rioja is often made with French oak (which gives smoky rather than vanilla flavours) and the grapes are well macerated to extract lots of colour and tannin.
So this is a lovely wine, and would actually go better with a steak than with lamb – but I’m not complaining, not me!
Let’s get the obvious out of the way – most Soave is swill.
Well, to be fair, most is technically drinkable, if fairly simple, but lacking in flavour. It’s what you see on the label of the cheapest whites at your local convenience store. Over 85% of Soave production is made by co-operatives, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but when prices are fairly low then production targets are nearly always based on quantity rather than quality.
After a fantastic Amarone masterclass given by Count Guiseppe Rizzardi, we were treated to a glass of Rizzardi’s Soave with the first course of lunch. It is produced from a single vineyard on the hill of Costeggiola in the oldest part of the Soave wine region, just to the east of Verona. The soil is volcanic and the slope of the hill is steep enough to require terracing – add all of this to a southerly aspect and you have the right ingredients for some serious wine.
The blend is 70% Garganega (the minimum stipulated by the DOC regulations) and 30% Chardonnay (with other varieties also permitted). The vines are between 10 and 40 years old, a good indicator of potential quality. As is the norm the wines do not see any oak during fermentation or maturation. 2014 was a cooler vintage in Soave, meaning a longer growing season.
The 2014 is clean, tangy, with appreciable texture. It has citrus, tropical and stone fruit notes – it’s a complex, versatile, enjoyable wine.
Suffice it to say that I popped to my local O’Briens store and cleaned them out of this wine!
In case you weren’t aware, these two names are the same grape in different languages – German and Hungarian respectively. The origin stems from the colour – blue – and the supposed more noble 
Dr Konstantin Frank emigrated to New York State from the Ukraine in 1951. After years of research he became convinced that Vitis Vinifera (proper vines) could flourish in the cool climate of upstate New York if they were grafted onto the right rootstock.
When 
