Make Mine A Double

O’Briens Summer Sips (1) Fresh whites

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The 2025 French wine sale is underway at O’Briens so I thought I’d take the opportunity to try out a few of the wines on offer. Not the most expensive, but the most moderately priced, and, most importantly, new to me. Here are a pair of fresh whites:

La Baume La Grande Olivette Pays d’Oc Albariño 2023

Wine label

When I first got into wine, La Baume wines were great value Languedoc offerings in my local Sainsbury’s. On the evidence of this bottle, that still seems to be the case.

Wines labelled just “La Baume” appear to be negotiant wines, bottled at a large facility owned by parent Les Grands Chais de France (GCF). Those with “Domaine de la Baume” are made on the property of the original winery, from their own fruit, and carry a correspondingly higher price tag.

“La Grande Olivette” simply means “The Large Olive Tree”, evoking the Mediterranean landscape.

But then we come to the elephant in the room – Albariño! This Spanish variety is rarely seen in France, though it has recently been added to the list of permitted grapes in Bordeaux on an experimental basis. In Spain it is most well known in Galicia, and at its best in the region of Rías Baixas close to the Atlantic coast. It also thrives as Alvarinho over the border into Portugal.

So how does this French example compare? It’s quite aromatic on the nose, but clean and fresh on the palate. There’s citrus and stone fruit here, though not as ripe and juicy as some examples of Albariño. It does have the mineral and saline characteristics of the variety, though, and could even pass for a dry Riesling. On a warm summer day it went down a treat, and was praised by several guests who also tasted it.

  • RRP: €16.95 down to €12.95 in the French wine sale
  • ABV: 12.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

La Salette Blanc Côtes de Gascogne 2024

Wine label

Gascogne, or Gascony in English, is the far south western part of France. It’s more well known for Armagnac than for table wine, but it’s the exception to the rules that if a region produces grape-based drinks other than table wine – think Sherry, Champagne, Cognac – then the table wines are sub-par.

Many of the grapes grown here originated here, and are rarely seen elsewhere. Even when some interloping Sauvignon Blanc is included in a blend, however, the wines still reflect their geographic origin.

Domaine Duffour was founded by Michel in 1982 and is still a family concern.

Like this example they are often light-ish in alcohol, unoaked and full of juicy fruits. In fact, there’s more fruit here than you’ve got any right to expect at this price. On the attack there are tropical mango, pineapple and with a zippy fresh finish. Many would guess it to be a Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s actually made from local heroes Colombard and Gros Manseng.

This is a wonderful wine which tastes on par with wines costing far more.

  • RRP: €14.95 down to €10.00 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 11.0%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

This was quite an easy choice for me.

The Albariño is good but not great, a little short on fruit for my taste. It’s definitely worth trying, and good value at the offer price, but I think I’d choose other wines of the same variety when it’s listed at full price.

I’ve often said that Côtes de Gascogne whites are the best value on the market, and La Salette is a fantastic example. I’d pay the full price without blinking, and the offer price makes it a steal. It’s the taste of summer in a glass!

 

**Click here to see more posts in the Make Mine a Double Series**

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Single Bottle Review, Tasting Events

Balnaves Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon [Wine Review]

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I recently attended Liberty Wines Ireland’s Autumn Portfolio Tasting, and while I focused on new additions to their portfolio (watch this space), I couldn’t resist trying an iconic Aussie red, Balnaves Coonawarra Cab

Coonawarra

Coonawarra, as some regular readers might know, is my favourite red wine region in the world. It is home to one of the most identifiable and excellent Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, though  Shiraz, red blends and Chardonnay also do well here. What is the Coonawarra style? Basically it’s blackcurrant and mint / menthol / eucalyptus, all entwined around a robust structure. The wines often need several years to approach their drinking windows, but then “all good things…” More accessible styles are also made, to be drunk when younger; for example, Katnook Estate’s Founders Block and Wynns’ The Gables.

So what makes Coonawarra so special? It’s a combination of things, but principly it’s the soil – terra rossa over limestone – and a relatively (for South Australia) cool climate. Terra Rossa is a clay and silt dominated soil that drains well and has a neutral pH. The Coonawarra strip is a cigar shape which follows the main Riddoch highway north to south – or more accurately, the highway follows the top of the ridge as it’s the firmest and best-drained route.

Grapes were first planted by John Riddoch (after who the highway was named) back in 1890, though until the middle of the twentieth century they were mainly used for Shiraz-based fortified wines. This situation began to change with the purchase of Riddoch’s original cellars and some land by Samuel Wynn in 1951. Along with Penfolds, Wynns was a major force behind the transformation of the Australian wine industry and the move away from fortifieds. Wynns Estate’s top Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon is also named after John Riddoch.

Balnaves

The Balnaves family planted their first vines in the south of Coonawarra in 1975. Since then they have expanded their holdings to 58 hectares, of which around 40 hectares are Cabernet Sauvignon. For the first twenty years they were highly regarded contract growers rather than full-on wine producers, but that changed with the recruitment of former Wynns winemaker Pete Bissell and construction of their winery. He “retired” in 2020 but still works as consultant winemaker with head winemaker Jacinta Jenkins. The Balnaves family are still involved, as second generation Doug and his children Pete and Kirsty run the business and manage a further 300 hectares of Coonawarra vines for other growers.

Their vines are organised into small blocks of one to two hectares, depending on aspect, vine age, grape variety, specific soil types and other qualities. Picking and vinifying them separately gives the winemakers a detailed palette from which to build complex and appropriately structured wines. The best Cabernet grapes in the best years go into a bottle called “The Tally”, named after the book for recording the number of sheep sheared by a shearer in a two hour period. When I visited various Coonawarra cellar doors back in 2000 I overhead locals discussing their livestock as well as their vines – both are part of the way of life there.

Balnaves Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Balnaves Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 bottle shot

For the 2019 vintage Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were selected from the Dead Morris and Old Paulownia blocks, co-fermented with 4.8% Dunstan Petit Verdot. Maturation was for 18 months in French oak barrels, just over half of which was new. This oak regime does not overwhelm the fruit, however, but rather helps to add structure, perfume and elegance.

The wine is classic, and classy…somewhere in between the restraint of Pauillac and the power of South Australia’s warmer regions. The nose has intense notes of cassis and blackberry, surrounded with pencil shavings and vanilla. There’s no mistaking this for anything other than Cabernet. These notes continue onto the palate which is rich but not jammy – acidity and tannins keep everything in order.

A fantastic example of Coonawarra Cabernet!

  • ABV: 14.5%
  • RS: 0.4 g/L
  • RRP: €41.99
  • Stockists: wineonline.ie, Thomas Woodberrys Wines, Blackrock Cellar, The 1601, Matson’s
  • Other Balnaves wines available in Ireland: Coonawarra Cabernet / Merlot (blend), “The Tally” Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon

 

Single Bottle Review, Tasting Events

Giant Steps “Applejack Vineyard” Yarra Valley Chardonnay [Wine Review]

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Another Aussie favourite from Liberty Wines is this gem from the Yarra Valley

Yarra Valley

In my piece on Mount Pleasant Lovedale I noted that the Hunter Valley is close to Sydney; the Yarra Valley is close to another of Australia’s great cities, Melbourne. In fact the Yarra River flows right through the city and into Port Phillip Bay. Vines were first planted way back (in Australian terms) in 1838 at Yering Station.

Being so southerly and close to the ocean it has a cool climate, making it best suited to Burgundian varieties, as both still and sparkling wine (Moët & Chandon has an outpost here, Domaine Chandon). There’s very little bulk wine here, with the focus on quality. I had the pleasure of a day trip round Yarra Valley wineries as part of a friend’s stag weekend in 2003, and the wines were all impressive.

Giant Steps

Giant Steps was founded by serial beverage entrpreneur Phil Sexton. As a brewer himself, he started with breweries in Western Australia, then moved into wine with Devil’s Lair in Margaret River. After selling that, in 1997 he moved east to the Yarra with his winemaker wife. There he set up two complimentary wine ventures: Innocent Bystander as a small to medium sized label for bought-in grapes and Giant Steps for premium estate grown wines. He sold the former in 2016, then Giant Steps was bought by California outfit Jackson Family Estates in 2020. Finally (for now!) he came back full circle to relaunch his first brand – Matilda Bay – with current owners Carlton & United Breweries.

Giant Steps continues under the experienced guidance of Melanie Chester and Steve Flamsteed. They continue with the single vineyard expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the best vintages, but also the “regional” Yarra Valley bottlings which are important ambassadors for the area.

Applejack Vineyard

Applejack Vineyard
Credit: Giant Steps (Instagram)

The Applejack Vineyard is located in the Upper Yarra, east of Melbourne and between 180 and 260 metres above sea level. Whereas the Upper Yarra is mostly volcanic soil, the Applejack has clay loam which keeps yields low and quality high. It spans 12.5 hectares and was planted with both varieties on an east-facing site in 1997, though it only became part of Giant Steps in 2013. Giant Steps only bottle the wines as a single vineyard in better years, otherwise the juice is blended into the regional Yarra Valley wine.

Giant Steps “Applejack Vineyard” Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2022

Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 bottle shot

Grapes were entirely hand-harvested and sorted. before undergoing a whole bunch press. Then the juice is transferred into 500 litre French oak barrels for fermentation with indigenous yeast. The lees are stirred only for the first month, and then the wine matured for eight further months in a mix of new (20%) and previously used (80%) tight grain French 225 litre barriques, and finally gentle bottling by gravity.

The nose has aromas of apple, soft stone fruits and a touch of spice from the oak. On the palate it’s fresh and tangy, with light citrus notes joining the fray. There’s structure here, but the wine is still light and ethereal – as evidenced by the relatively low alcohol. Overall the verdict is: so damned tasty!

A quick discussion on the price of this wine: €70, less a cent. Does this seem a lot for an Aussie Chardonnay, when you might be able to pick up an Aussie Chardonnay for €15? That would only be a fair comparison if we regard the category as a uniform commodity, and I certainly don’t. The Giant Steps “Standard” Yarra Valley Chardonnay is under €50 in independents, so is this worth a substantial premium on that? Again I’d argue that they are different wines, and although neither are cheap, they are very premium wines that are worth their price tags. If we look at the incredible price rises from Burgundy over the past few years then I’d argue that they represent good value!

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €69.99
  • Stockists: Avoca, Blackrock Cellar
  • Other Giant Steps wines available in Ireland: Yarra Valley Chardonnay, “Sexton Vineyard” Yarra Valley Chardonnay, “Tarraford Vineyard” Yarra Valley Chardonnay, Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, “Applejack Vineyard” Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, “Primavera Vineyard” Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, “Wombat Creek Vineyard” Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, “Fatal Shore” Coal River Valley Pinot Noir
Single Bottle Review, Tasting Events

Shaw + Smith “M3” Chardonnay [Wine Review]

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This is the second amazing Aussie wine from the Liberty Ireland wine tasting earlier this year

Shaw + Smith “M3” Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2022

Shaw + Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2022 bottle shot

Messrs Shaw and Smith are cousins as well as being partners, having joined forced in 1989. Their wines are mainly from the cool climate Adelaide Hills regions, with a newer outpost in the even cooler Tasmania. The varieties they grow are suited to their sites, with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling the whites and Pinot Noir and Shiraz the reds. For me it’s their Chardonnays which top the bill – this “M3” and the flagship Lenswood Vineyard. “M3” is in quotation marks not just because it’s a name, but the original vineyard from where fruit was sourced has been sold on in favour of sites with different clones and locations. In fact, much of the grapes in M3 now come from the high altitude Lenswood vineyard which S+S bought in 2012, plus their Piccadilly and Lobethal sites.

After hand picking, the grapes are cooled then pressed in whole bunches. The juice is then transferred to French barriques (1/3 new, 2/3 pre-used) to undergo alcoholic and malolactic fermentations. Maturation is over nine months, with some bâtonnage, before blending in steel tanks then bottling.

The 2022 M3 has a fabulously funky nose, yeasty and reductive. Flowers and fresh citrus too. Even smelling it is a treat. The palate has great texture, with creamy notes from MLF and oak. There are stone fruits added to the citrus that comes through from the nose.

For such a young wine this is already showing so well. The price in Ireland has risen somewhat over the last few years (what hasn’t?), but it remains a classy wine and represents good value.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RS: 0.3 g/L
  • RRP: €44.99
  • Stockists: The Corkscrew, Blackrock Cellar, Fallon & Byrne, Mitchell & Son, wineonline.ie, 64 Wine
  • Other Shaw + Smith wines available in Ireland: Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills Shiraz, “Balhannah Vineyard” Adelaide Hills Shiraz, “Lenswood Vineyard” Adelaide Hills Chardonnay, “Lenswood Vineyard” Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir
Single Bottle Review

Oyster Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc [Wine Review]

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Oyster Bay is ubiquitous on the shelves of supermarkets and convenience stores in Ireland and the UK, and this accessibility makes it one of the best known Kiwi wines available in these parts. Of course popularity doesn’t automaticlly infer quality, which give us the obvious question: is Oyster Bay a good wine?

Oyster Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc bottle shot

The name Oyster Bay makes one think of the pioneering Marlborough Sauvignon producer Cloudy Bay, but of course those wines are at the other end of the price spectrum for that type of wine.

As well as the region’s signature SB, in Marlborough Oyster Bay also make a Chardonnay and both red and rosé Pinot Noirs. The label also produces wines from Hawke’s Bay on the east coast of the North Island – Pinot Grigio and Merlot still wines plus white (100% Chardonnay) and rosé (Chardonnay / Pinot Noir blend) sparkling.

As expected, the wine is very pale in the glass, almost water white. The nose is surprisingly tropical, something I would expect from Sauvignons at a higher price point or those from Wairarapa across the Cook Strait. There are pineapple and mango aromas, offset by fresh grapefruit, and just a touch of herbs.

The palate is varietally typical with gooseberry and grapefruit, and a nice bit of texture. This isn’t a one dimensional wine, it has competing sweet and sour notes, though more sour and sweet if described by the relative intensity of those properties.

I have to confess that I have not bought a bottle of Oyster Bay for many years, so receiving this bottle gave me a chance to revisit the brand. Odd bottles I had in the past weren’t to my taste, but this was definitely better. So to answer the question posed above – is Oyster Bay a good wine? – I would say it’s OK but not great. It’s not going to win over many people who don’t like Marlborough Sauvignon, and I think there are significantly better bottles out there for a few Euros more. But if you aren’t near an independent wine shop, and you have a hankering for some Savvy, then this might just fit the bill.

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RS: 4 g/L
  • RRP: €13 – €17
  • Source: gift
  • Stockists: widely available at supermarkets, convenience stores and some multiples

 

Tasting Events

The Pommery Champagne Terrace at the Dylan Hotel

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Pommery Champagne Terrace at the Dylan Hotel

I was recently invited to the 2024 launch of the Pommery Champagne Terrace at the Dylan Hotel in Dublin. As a bubbly fanatic I didn’t have to be asked twice! Although I was a guest of Dalcassian, Pommery’s representatives in Dublin, I wasn’t asked to write this article, which contains my opinions only.

The Dylan Hotel is tucked away in Ballsbridge, the only boutique 5 star hotel in Dublin. I have happy memories of a work dinner / wine tasting there some years ago where I was set loose on the wine list.

The Pommery Champagne Terrace

The Terrace is located at the front of the Dylan Hotel, a few feet above road level and protected by a hedge. There are lots of parasols to protect against the morning sun plus dark blue Pommery branded cushions and blankets to stave off a Dublin evening chill.

Of course there is a theme to the drinks list on the terrace, and it’s Pommery Champagne. For the more adventurous there are also three Pommery-based cocktails, including a Bellini (that’s right, changing up from the original recipe with Prosecco!) The real action though is in the different Pommery Cuvées, from the “standard” (I wouldn’t dare call it entry level) Brut Royal all the way up to the iconic Cuvée Louise.

Dylan Menu drinks

The food menu is casual but high quality, with a seafood bias that’s perfect for chilled Champagne. Of course the cheese is lost on me, but I really enjoyed the charcuterie that I tried.

Dylan Menu bites

Champagne Pommery

Monsieur Alexandre-Louis Pommery and his wife Madame Jeanne Alexandrine Pommery had an unexpected addition to their family when she was 38 and he was already retired. Needing a regular income again to raise their child, he decided to go back into business, but this time buying into the booming Champagne trade on top of his textile business. He became a senior partner in Pommery & Greno, with Narcisse Greno continuing as a junior partner.

Sadly Alexandre died only two years later, so Veuve Pommery took over the running of Champagne Pommery herself. She was a formidable businesswoman and very innovative, making a much-derided decision to reduce the houses dosage and produce the first commercially available Brut style in 1874. This proved to be hugely popular in the English market which had less of a sweet tooth than the American and Russian markets. This success gave Pommery enough of a financial cushion to invest in a huge cellar complex, digging into the chalk seams dozens of metres underground.

Fast forward to the present day, and Champagne Pommery remains a Grande Marque and is part of the Vranken-Pommery Monopole group, the second largest in Champagne. Partnering with Hattingley Valley, Pommery also produces English Sparkling Wine under the label Louis Pommery

Today the Champagne Pommery range has 4 lines:

  • Royal: Brut Royal, Brut Rosé Royal, Royal Blue Sky, Grand Cru Royal
  • Cuvée Apanage: Brut, Rosé, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs
  • Cuvée Louise: Brut Millésime, Rosé Millésime, Brut Nature Millésime
  • Les Clos Pompadour: A 100% Grand Cru super premium cuvée with Chardonnay from Avize & Cramant and Pinot Noir from Aÿ, aged on the lees en magnum for 15 years

Champagne Pommery Brut Royale NV

Champagne Pommery Brut Royal NV bottle shot

So onto the wine itself, the star of the show. The blend is approximately equal thirds of the three main Champange grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, with the precise percentages changing slightly depending on the bottling. The grapes are sourced from a large number of villages around the Champagne region – many of them Grand and Premier Cru – to give the cellarmaster a broad choice of elements with which to make his assemblage.

Ageing in Pommery’s famous cellars takes 36 months, over double the regulatory minimum of 15 months, and enough to gain noticeable leesy character. On the nose it’s the Chardonnay that grabs the attention with fresh lemon and lime notes, but then on the palate there are also appley notes (from the Meunier) and red fruits (from the Pinot Noir). This is a very well put together wine which deserves more recognition for its quality – and has a great story behind it, too.

 

Single Bottle Review

Belondrade Quinta Apolonia [Wine Review]

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When I started going to regular tastings in Dublin in 2008, one of the areas where I climbed a steep learning curve was Spanish white wines. As I had been focused on French and “new world” whites up to that point, Verdejo, Albariño, Godello and others were totally new to me. I learnt quickly! But it’s only in the last five years that I’ve come to realise that there are no real limits on how good these wines can be. Along with Rafael Palacios, Belondrade’s wines keep on pushing the boundaries for Spanish whites.

Verdejo and Rueda

Although Verdejo and Rueda are inextricably linked, Verdejo is actually thought to have originated in North Africa, and was brought to northern Spain by Christians under Muslim rule around a millennium ago. The wines were made for centuries in an oxidative style, not unlike Sherry, until the variety almost died out. Ángel Rodríguez Vidal of Bodega Martinsancho saved Verdejo from extinction and used it to make a fresher style of table wine, helping to establish the Rueda DO. His success was amplified by Rioja’s Marqués de Riscal who, seeking a source of fruity whites to sell alongside their own reds, poured significant investment into the area.

The fortified wines are still made in Rueda, as is a sparkling wine, but the still fresh style is by some margin the most popular. Verdejo is also grown in Castilla-La Mancha and Estremadura.

Sauvignon Blanc is also grown in Rueda, either as a blending component with Verdejo or as a principal variety. My person experience with these wines has been less favourable than Vedejo dominant wines.

Monsieur / Señor Didier Belondrade: A Frenchman in Spain

Didier Belondrade
Credit: Sobremesa

The third act of the Rueda story belongs to Didier Belondrade. he has recognised the potential in Rueda’s Verdejo and moved there to begin his own project in 1994. The first wine he produced was under the label Belondrade y Lurton, and showed a distinctly Bugundian approach, with oak and less used for both fermentation and maturation. The estate covers 40 hectares divided into 23 plots, each picked and vinified separately. Viticulture us certified organic but this isn’t mentioned on the label.

Quality has been improved year on year, with a big step coming after the construction of a new winery at La Seca in 2000. The range was extended with two wines named after his two daughters: a 100% rosé Tempranillo named Quinta Clarisa and a 100% Verdejo named Quinta Apolonia (the wine detailed below).  Producing the latter as a second wine means that only the very best grapes go into the first wine, enhancing its quality.

Balancing delicately at the very top of the Belondrade quality pyramid is Les Parcelles, a super-premium wine made from grapes harvested from two plots over two days in 2018. After 18 months in the barrel, 1994 bottles were filled and laid down for a further three years before release. The eagle-eyed among you will have noticed that the number of bottles corresponds to the year the winery was founded. As wellas the quality being super-premium, the price is super-premium at €410 on their website.

Belondrade Quinta Apolonia Vino de la Tierra Castilla Y León 2020

Belondrade Quinta Apolonia

As mentioned above, one of the reasons for the creation of this wine was to find a home for fruit that weren’t the very best, and thus excluded from the flagship wine. However, this doesn’t mean substandard fruit are used, just those berries which might not be the most complex or concentrated. Quinta Apolonia is designed to showcase the Verdejo variety rather than the wine-making, so it’s a fresher and more accessible style than Belondrade Y Lurton. Alcoholic fermentation is with natural yeast, but temperature controlled to preserve freshness. After ten months ageing on the lees, a blend is made from different plots and different fermenation vessels, then bottled for five months before release.  Quinta Apolonia is designed to be drunk within six to eight years of vintage. 

I tried this bottle at three and a half to four years after vintage, smack bang in the middle of the suggested drinking range. And it’s singing! the nose is elegantly perfumed with fresh pip and stone fruit. The palate is deliciously creamy and textured, with more fruit than a smoothie, and great acidity. It manages to be simultaeously a wine to pair with white fish and a wine to pair with roast chicken – very few can do both well.

In the low to mid twenties retail price point in Ireland, there’s very little to touch this wine.

Conclusion

I’ve been lucky enough to taste both this wine and the big sister Belondrade Y Lurton several times over the past five years. On each occasion, I prefered the junior wine. I found the Y Lurton too closed and not expressive enough, even with price taken out of the equation. So what gives? In essence, I think the senior wine needs time, time which I’ve been unable to give it.

However, I did just stumble across this article on Belondrade Y Lurton from my esteemed colleague John Wilson. Please do read it for yourself, but – writing in 2023 – he calls the 2018 an “Outstanding wine”. So perhaps I need to lay a few down myself.

 

 

 

 

Single Bottle Review, Tasting Events

Mount Pleasant “Lovedale” Hunter Valley Semillon [Wine Review]

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There are always new wines to discover at the Liberty Wines portfolio tasting, but sometimes it’s nice to revisit new vintages of old favourites…just to see how they’re getting on.

Here’s the first of my many favourite Australian wines from the Liberty stable.

Mount Pleasant “Lovedale” Hunter Valley Semillon 2018

Mount Pleasant Lovedale Hunter Valley Semillon 2018 bottle shot

Hunter Valley

The Hunter Valley is one of the best known Australian wine regions, albeit with its relative proximity to Sydney being a key factor in its success. Hunter Valley Semillon is arguably one of Australia’s key original wine styles. By that I mean that it’s not just a better, or different, version of a wine made elsewhere, but it is a true original. Even other Aussie wine regions which grow Semillon, such as the the Barossa and Margaret River, just can’t produce wine in the same style.

Hunter Valley Wine Region map
Credit: Australian Wine Discovered

Mount Pleasant

Mount Pleasant is one of the “OG” Hunter producers, founded over a century ago by the pioneering Maurice O’Shea (now there’s a fine Irish name). He spent six years in France studying and then lecturing in viticulture, before bringing this knowledge and expertise back to Australia. O’Shea is regarded as a founder of modern Australian wine making, and the top Shiraz produced by Mount Pleasant bears his name.

Before Covid I had the pleasure of tasting through some of the Mount Pleasant wines with Scott McWilliams, as McWilliams were the owners at that time. Sadly, subsequently McWilliams went into administration, and after almost 80 years under the McWilliams umbrella, Mount Pleasant was bought by NSW property and hotel business Medich Family Office. The additional resources have enabled the cellar door to be renovated, and the switch to only estate fruit from the Hunter, without the safety net of buying in grapes from neighbouring areas in case of poor vintage conditions.

Mount Pleasant have four heritage vineyards. Old Hill is the most venerable, planted with Shiraz in 1880, though wasn’t bought by Mount Pleasant until the 1920s. At that point Maurice also bought some adjoining plots and planted them with cuttings from Old Hill; these plots were named Old Paddock. In 1945 he bought Rosehill vineyard, identified as being extremely well suited to Shiraz, and Lovedale, which was mainly planted with Semillon. Today Lovedale is regarded by many as the finest Semillon vineyard in Australia.

Looking at some of Mount Pleasant’s recent accolades*, the Maurice O’Shea Shiraz has won awards at three to four years old whereas the Lovedale Semillon has been recognised at seven to eight years after vintage.

Lovedale Vineyard

Mount Pleasant Lovedale vineyard
Credit: Mount Pleasant

Lovedale is located close to Pokolbin at 60 metres above sea level. In total it covers 31.1 hectares, planted with Semillon (22.1ha), Chardonnay (7.4ha) and Verdelho (1.6ha). The vines are predominantly in an east-west orientation, with 3.35m between rows and 1.5m between vines and an average of 2,000 vines per hectare. The soil is “sandy aggregate loam topsoil, with friable red and yellow clay lower root zones”, giving the vines the potential to grow deep. Drip irrigation is used when necessary, and trellising is a combination of vertical shoot positioning and cordon ballerina. These methods give the grapes maximum access to sunlight, reducing the risk of diseases which are a significatn risk in the Hunter’s humid climate.

Mount Pleasant “Lovedale” Hunter Valley Semillon 2018

… the nose is so beguiling that it demands contemplation before even moving on to a sip.

So, onto the wine itself! At six years old this 2018 it is still a baby in Hunter Semillon terms, but it is already hugely expressive. The nose is complex, already displaying typical toasty aromas that allude to time in oak, despite the wine spending zero time in any oak vessel. In fact the nose is so beguiling that it demands contemplation before even moving on to a sip. But once tasting there are no regrets, only joy. Tangy pear and toasty notes endure, but against a backdrop of citrus and soft stone fruits. This is by no means a cheap wine, but in a world where white Burgundies can go for several hundreds euros, it begins to look like (relatively) good value for money.

What a wine!

  • ABV: 12.0%
  • RS: 0.3 g/L
  • RRP: €74.99
  • Stockists: 2017 vintage is available at Ely Wine Store, Maynooth
  • Other Mount Pleasant wines available in Ireland: “Estate Grown” Hunter Valley Semillon, “Elizabeth” Cellar Aged Hunter Valley Semillon, “Maurice O’Shea” Hunter Valley Shiraz, “Rosehill” Hunter Valley Shiraz, “Old Paddock & Old Hill” Hunter Valley Shiraz

* Note the lower case “a”!

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Lidl Wines for Easter [Wine Review]

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This Easter, Lidl Ireland is releasing some special seasonal wines from Argentina and Germany; three whites, a rosé, a sparkling rosé and a red. I recently tried six with the assistance of two old friends:

Suelo Argentino Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Suelo Argentino Sauvignon Blanc 2022 bottle shot

The twin reference points of Marlborough and Sancerre are far away from Argentina, and this example of the grape doesn’t ape either style. SB from Chile is more well known here, and although there’s a bloomin’ big mountain range between the two countries, there are considerable similarities in the wines.

On the nose this is intensely fruity, with almost confected fruits like fruit polos (do they still exist?). Those notes also appear on the palate, with juicy melon also apparent. High acidity keeps everything fresh and makes this a great wine for sipping in the sun, if we get any this Easter.

  • ABV: 12.0%
  • RRP: €9.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: Lidl Ireland stores

Markus Molitor Mosel Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Markus Molitor Mosel Sauvignon Blanc 2022 bottle shot

Sauvignon from Germany, Austria and further east is rarely seen here in Ireland, but I have found a recognisable style amongst those that have made it to these ahores: dry, herbal and savoury. This effort from high end producer Markus Molitor certainly fits that bill, though the nose and the first sip have a Riesling-like quality to them. While that’s no bad thing in my book, could it be due to the Mosel’s famous slate soils?

I’m not sure if this wine would be loved by the casual Sauvignon drinker, but it’s very interesting and certainly a different take on the grape. For me it would be best with a light salad, though I’m sure cheese fans would also recommend a goat’s cheese tart.

  • ABV: 12.0%
  • RRP: €13.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: Lidl Ireland stores

Markus Molitor Mosel Riesling Feinherb 2022

Markus Molitor Mosel Riesling Feinherb 2022 bottle shot

So now we have the real deal, Mosel Riesling, but Riesling with a decent whack of residual sugar, signaled by the “Feinherb” designatation in the name. Of course, the measured RS in grams per litre only tells part of the story: acidity is the other part. So important is acidity in apparent sweetness, that some German labelling regulations – such as “Halbtrocken” – have different RS maxima for low, medium and high acidity wines. Feinherb escapes such prescriptions, but is usually used for wines a little sweeter than Halbtrocken.

Judicious sweetness like this comes across much more as fruitiness than as sugary sweetness: balance is the key. The nose is awesomely aromatic, as a good Riesling should be, with floral and lime notes. This is a tasty wine; just ensure that it’s kept well chilled.

  • ABV: 10.5%
  • RRP: €12.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: Lidl Ireland stores

Suelo Argentino Malbec Rosé 2022

Suelo Argentinian Malbec Rosé 2022 bottle shot

It might seem a waste to make rosé with Malbec, but as the red wines are on the lighter side (see below) it isn’t a huge leap to making a pink wine. This rosé has a little more colour than Provence-style rosés which are en vogue these days, but that’s fine with me. It’s a cheerful, fun wine with dark red fruits and a dry finish. It’s fairly straight forward, but for a tenner in Ireland it’s good value for money.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €9.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: Lidl Ireland stores

Suelo Argentino Malbec 2022

Suelo Argentinian Malbec 2022 bottle shot

Malbec is of course Argentia’s signature black grape, but this is a slightly different style from the Malbecs that we have come to expect. Don’t get me wrong, there isn’t a single type of Argentinian Malbec, but if tasted blind I would have guessed that this came from the Loire Valley rather than South America.

The nose shows bright red fruits – raspberry, redcurrant and cherry – which continue through onto the palate. Thsi wine is only medium in body at most, but the prominent acidity makes it fresh and easy drinking. A dusting of tannins on the finish rounds it off well. Perfect for parties and barbecues.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €9.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: Lidl Ireland stores

Deutsche Sekt Brut Rosé NV

Deutsche Sekt Brut Rosé NV bottle shot

As befitting its German origins, this is a premium German (“Deutsche”) sparkling wine (“Sekt”) made in the traditional method from German-grown grapes. It’s fully sparkling and has a cork with a cage, covered in foil, just like Champagne and Crémant from France. The front label states that it has spent 15 months on the lees, the minimum requirement for Champagne (and I’m sure that’s no coincidence.)

With no further information, it fell to my senses to ascertain its qualities. It pops just like a bottle of posh French fizz, and shows a nice mousse in the glass. The nose is an explosion of strawberries, making me think that this is predominantly Pinot Noir-based. The strawberries continue onto the palate, joined by light, creamy lees goodness. The acidity is strong – as it should be – and stops the wine running away with itself.

This isn’t a particularly complex wine, but it’s well made and downright delicious.

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €24.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: Lidl Ireland stores

Conclusion

These are all wines that I would happily drink myself, and will probably pick up a few when they are in store. Trying the two contrasting Sauvignons together would make for an interesting evening, and the Riesling would be cracking with a Thai red curry, but for sheer enjoyment the sparkling is the one that I would make a trip to pick up.

Opinion

SuperValu Spanish and Portuguese Wine Sale [Wine review]

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It’s spring again in Ireland, though you might be forgiven for not believing me given the snow that has fallen recently. Whatever the weather is doing, spring is time for the SuperValu Spanish wine sale, or should I say more properly the SuperValu Spanish and Portuguese wine sale, as wines from both countries are included.

Here are a brace from each country that are well worth snapping up.

Adega de Monção Vinho Verde Alvarinho 2022

AM Vinho Verde Alvarinho 2022 bottle shot

Alvarinho / Albariño’s homelands are both sides of Portugal’s northern border with Spain, i.e. Vinho Verde and Galicia. The cool, maritime climate makes for fresh, refreshing whites from a host of local varieties. On the south side of the Minho, varietal Alvarinho is mainly found in the subregion of Monção e Melgaço, based around the two villages of the same name.

While I am a fan of all the different local grapes, this is a shining example of what a single varietal can do. It’s clean and fresh, but intensely fruity. There’s bright citrus here, with stone and tropical fruit notes riding along. This would work well as an aperitif, with seafood and white fish, or just catching a few rays with friends.

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €10 down from €13
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Paço das Côrtes Fado Friendship Reserva 2021

Fado Friendship Reserva Lisboa bottle shot

Funky bottle, funky wine – but in a good way.  The blend is 40% Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), 30% Alicante Bouschet and 30% Syrah. On arrival at the winery the bunches are destemmed and sorted then vinified separately in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.

This is a very approachable and quaffable red, lighter in fruit, body and structure than the Riojas below, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. There’s a touch of vanilla on the nose and palate, but otherwise this is all about fresh, ripe red fruits – think raspberry, cranberry, redcurrant and strawberry. Enjoy this with a charcuterie board or lightly chilled in the sun.

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €13 down from €10
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Pagos de Labarca AEX 2020

Pagos de Labarca AEX 2020 bottle shot

This is one of Pagos de Labarca’s top wines, though noticeably doesn’t have an age / quality designation on the front – at least not in the normal Spanish way. “AEX” is short for “Alta Expresión”, Labarca’s “High Expression” wine made from vines of 35 years and older. There’s no Grenache here, it’s almost entirely Tempranillo with just a 3% seasoning of Graciano. Alcoholic fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tanks, but then the must is transferred to a mix of American and French oak barrels for malolactic fermentation, lees ageing and then finally maturation for 18 months.

This is a modern Rioja, with intense red and black fruits, both vanilla and smoky spice. There’s even some quality chocolate spinkled in there. Above all it is concentrated yet super smooth

  • ABV: 14.5%
  • RRP: €20 down from €25
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Conde Valdemar Rioja Gran Reserva 2015

Conde Valdemar Rioja Gran Reserva 2015 bottle shot

This wine isn’t normally available at SuperValu but can be found at some off licence chains and independents – at a significantly higher price than this offer. Compared to the Pagos de Labarca this is definitely a more traditional style of Rioja, both in terms of blend (86% Tempranillo, 8% Garnacha, 3% Graciano, 3% Maturana) and ageing (34 months in oak barrels). Those barrels hail from France (70%) and the USA (30%).

Despite close to three years in oak, the wine is bursting with fruit – blueberries, strawberries and blackberries to name a few. The fruits are just a little muddled rather than super fresh now, but this wine is still in the flushes of youth. so much so, in fact, that I’d recommend decanting this for several hours if you can,

  • ABV: 14.0%
  • RRP: €20 down from €25
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Conclusion

Just like Vanessa Williams, I saved the best for last. I’d be very happy drinking any (all?) of these wines, but the Conde Valdmar was the most impressive. So much so that I popped in to my local SuperValu and bought myself a few more bottles!