For many wine drinkers the brighter evenings are the sign to break out the rosé. Summer doesn’t appear to have arrived yet here in Ireland, but rosé sales are already booming. At family-owned chain O’Briens Wines they are out in full force, with a 25% off promotion:
Here are brief notes on two from that selection which have an Irish connection, though perhaps a little tenuous…
Domaine de l’Ostal Rosé 2020
Domaine de l’Ostal is the Languedoc outpost of the JM Cazes group, named after Jean-Michel Cazes who ran the group for over 30 years until he handed the reins over to his son Jean-Charles Cazes in 2006. L’Ostal is a large estate, with 150 ha in total of which 60 ha are under vine and 25 ha are olive groves. I am a big fan of their Minervois La Livinière Grand Vin which punches well above its weight.
The Domaine de l’Ostal rosé is a 50-50 blend of Grenache and Syrah grapes from the coolest part of the estate. The grapes are cold pressed to preserve aromas and freshness, and to reduce extraction of colour and flavour from the skins. The result is a lovely pale pink wine with fresh red fruit aromas – raspberry, redcurrant and strawberry – plus pomegranate. On the palate sweet red fruits are to the fore, but the finish remains crisp.
This is an easy-going and appealing rosé which will be a real crowd pleaser come barbecue time.
Irish connection: the JM Cazes family also own and run Château Lynch-Bages in Pauillac which was of course founded by Irish émigré Thomas Lynch.
Laurent Miquel Les Auzines Alaina Rosé 2020
Laurent Miquel is the eighth generation of winemaker in his family, but he initially opted for a professional career in the automotive industry. The family calling eventually won him over and, after studying oenology in Montpellier, he returned to the land. His father Henri was a great innovator in his time, especially planting so much Syrah in the 1970s.
The Miguel family bought the Cazal Viel estate in 1791, and although it had been used for viticulture by its previous custodians its poor fertility meant that wine was a small part of the estate for many years. This was added to by Laurent’s purchase of Château Les Auzines in Corbières in 2009.
Les Auzines is situated on a rocky plateau at 350 metres above sea level. As well as being Laurent’s family home it is the source of three wines; Alaina Albariño, Alaina Rosé and Cuvée Les Garrigues.
The Rosé is a typical Languedoc blend of 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 30% Cinsault. Fermentation at low temperatures and ageing are carried out in steel tanks to preserve aromas and freshness.
When poured the wine is very pale in colour, not too far from water white, as is the fashion these days. The nose shows delicate citrus and light red fruit aromas. The palate is fruity but balanced. Gentle red fruits hint at sweetness without sugariness, and there’s some texture there too. The finish is fresh, but it does not take you down a mineral-only path, and is certainly not austere.
Here are two wines from the SuperValu Italian Wine Sale, and specifically a Piedmontese pair that caught my attention at a virtual press tasting. These are both “Guest wines”, i.e. they are sourced via local suppliers rather than direct from the producer, giving the retailer more flexibility.
Before we get to the wines themselves, a quick look at the wine regions of Tuscany and the producer Castellani:
Tuscany
The most famous wine region of Tuscany (and Italy) is Chianti; I posit that most wine drinkers are still not aware of the difference between Chianti and Chianti Classico and they are grouped together in most people’s minds. Brunello di Montalcino is less well known among the general wine buying population, though it has a strong following among the cognoscenti. Brunello is the local synonym for Sangiovese, specifically the Sangiovese Grosso clone which is native to the area. The third and least well-known Sangiovese area of Tuscany is Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. This is (obviously) made in the area around the town of Montepulciano from the local Sangiovese clone called Prugnolo gentile.
One other difference between the three DOCGs is the allowance of other varieties. Brunello – and its baby brother Rosso di Montalcino – must be 100% Sangiovese; Vino Nobile has to be a minimum 70% Sangiovese plus Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo and other local varieties; Chianti and Chianti Classico can range between 75% and 100% Sangiovese with Canaiolo and others making up the balance.
For Vino Nobile di Montepulciano the major confusion has been with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a red wine made from the Montepulciano grape in the province of Abruzzo. The governing Corsorzio has therefore recently started promoting the wine as simply Vino Nobile…easier (and shorter) for folk to say and remember.
Vermentino is an Italian treasure and one of the key white varieties of Tuscany, but it is actually grown further afield under the same and other names. It is widely planted in Sardinia under the same name, in Liguria as Pigato and as Favorita a little further north in Piedmont. On the French Mediterranean coast (the Languedoc, Roussillon and Provence) it is usually known as Rolle, but increasingly labelled as Vermentino as customers have more awareness of this name.
In Tuscany it is generally grown close to the coast to benefit from cool coastal breezes, allowing flavours, aromas and acidity to develop without excessive alcohol. For Castellani this Vermentino is one of their biggest sellers in Italy. Clonal selection is very important to maintain consistency.
Castellani
Alfredo Castellani established his winery in Montecalvoli in 1903, after previously being solely a grape grower. His sons Duilio and Mario subsequently took over and expanded the firm significantly. Duilio’s eldest son Giorgio coordinated a huge export drive, and was later joined in this by his brother Roberto after a serious flood. Another disaster was to take hold in 1982 when a fire destroyed Castellani’s premises. Giorgio and Roberto bought the Campomaggio Estate and were able to use the facilities of the new property to rebuild the business. They were then joined by Piergiorgio who added a scientific take to the firm’s vinous artistry, and continues to run the firm to this day.
Piergiorgio has been experimenting with ways to make Tuscan wines which appeal to a younger, less tradition-bound generation. This includes funky new labels which are less intimidating than those the consumer is used to seeing, but also by gently increasing the residual sugar to give a richer, rounder wine. He is not aiming for noticeable sweetness, and a little tartaric acid is added to keep the wines fresh.
All that said, here are brief notes on two dry Castellani wines that I tried and really enjoyed recently:
Corte Alle Mone Vermentino Toscana 2019
The Corte Alle Mone Vermentino is pale in the glass and lightly aromatic on the nose. It shows citrus and stone fruits with hints of balsamic aromas. The palate is bright and tangy yet creamy and round. This is a delicious example of the variety and a great introduction to Tuscan Vermentino.
ABV: 12.5%
RRP:€10.00 down from €14.99 from 20th May to 9th June 2021
The introduction to Tuscan wines above gives you the background to Vino Nobile. This example from Castellani’s Corte Alle Mine has a textbook Sangiovese nose of dark fruits, tar, coffee and balsamic aromas – presumably from the 24 or more months it spent in large format oak casks. The palate is smooth without being bland, with a balance between the fruit and smoky black elements. Piergiorgio believes that a year or two more in bottle would bring out more savoury, umami tertiary notes. If you like the sound of that then lay a few bottles down, but it’s drinking beautifully right now; this is a complex, quality wine that is an outstanding bargain at this price.
ABV: 13.5%
RRP: €15.00 down from €19.99 from 20th May to 9th June 2021
Here are two wines from the SuperValu Italian Wine Sale, and specifically a Piedmontese pair that caught my attention at a virtual press tasting. These are both “Guest wines”, i.e. they are sourced via local suppliers rather than direct from the producer, giving the retailer more flexibility.
Before we get to the wines themselves, a quick look at the wine regions of Piedmont:
Piedmont
Piedmont, or Piemonte to the locals, is a major region in north west Italy that runs right into the Alps. As well as being a major industrial centre it is also home to many of Italy’s most well-known wine regions, nearly all using indigenous varieties.
Ricossa Antica Casa
The Ricossa family can trace their beverage production origins back to the end of the 19th century, but it was Piedmontese spirits that they made rather than wine back then. Now they make fifteen wines from across the region, with Nebbiolo and Barbera featuring prominently. Below we have two excellent examples.
Ricossa Gavi 2019
As you can see from the map above, Gavi is very close to Piedmont’ southern border with Liguria. From there it is only around 60 kilometres to the Ligurian Sea, part of the Mediterranean, so there is a distinct coastal influence. The estate where Ricossa source their Cortese grapes for this wine was established in 2004 on steep, rocky terrain.
In the glass this Gavi is a pale lemon, so good so far, but it’s the nose where things start to get really interesting. The nose kicks off with an intoxicating muskiness, lifted and exciting. It’s an unusual aroma, hard to pin down, but really special. This then gives way to a variety of citrus notes. The palate manages to be fresh and zesty, yet smooth, mineral yet textured. It’s very approachable but not dumbed down in any way.
I’ve had some other good Gavis in the last decade but none have been as good as this.
ABV: 12.0%
RRP:€12.00 down from €13.99 from 20th May to 9th June 2021
Many regard Barolo as the pinnacle of Italian wine, and most consider it to be at least in the top handful. However, many Barolos not only improve with a good amount of cellaring but are almost undrinkable in their youth. Nebbiolo’s fiery tannins and acids can make for a drinking experience which is more masochism than hedonism. There are some bottles which are approachable on release, such as GD Vayra’s Bricco delle Viole, but a single bottle of that won’t leave you that much change from €100 (in Ireland) , so it remains out of reach for most.
Step up Ricossa! The grapes for this wine are from vines on calcareous silty clay soils, good for structure and complexity. Fermentation and maceration take place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, then maturation is in French oak barrels for two years and a further year in bottle before release.
When poured this is ruby red but with brown tints hinting at a little bit of age. The nose shows red fruits, liquorice, caramel and spices, including a hint of vanilla. The palate is rich and very expressive, with notes of black and red liquorice, cherries and raspberries. This is a generous, elegant wine. It has plenty of tannin and acidity, but they are interwoven with the fruits and other elements of the wine rather than standing in stark relief.
This Barolo straddles the line between traditional and modern wines. It’s highly approachable and not austere, so shouldn’t scare off any tempted to try Barolo for the first time.
ABV: 13.5%
RRP: €20.00 down from €24.99 from 20th May to 9th June 2021
What’s the best inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc from SuperValu? Here are four Sauvignons from the current SuperValu sale, from four different countries: France, Australia, Chile and Argentina.
La Petite Perrière Sauvignon Blanc 2019: The minerally one
It’s rather fitting that the producer of this wine is named after a stone quarry in Sancerre as it has a wonderful mineral streak through its core. Yes there are plenty of citrus notes too – lemon, lime and grapefruit – but they are along for the journey rather than being the destination themselves. This is a fresh style of Sauvignon Blanc that has more than a passing resemblance to a dry Alsace Riesling, which is obviously a positive in my book!
“Sauv Block” is some sort of pun on Prison Block / Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s fairly weak (yes, this is me saying this!) I’ve already covered the 19 Crimes Red Wine and its unusual packaging, so this time we will just consider the wine inside. It has some of the typical grapefruit and gooseberry notes on the nose but there are also more soft and tropical fruit aromas. The palate reflects this, with melon and pineapple alongside the green fruits.
The 19 Crimes SB doesn’t have the zing and freshness of a typical SB. I haven’t tasted enough Aussie single varietal Sauvignons to compare it to, but this wine seems almost like it’s made with a different grape variety – something like Godello – though I’m sure it’s not. In short, this is a Sauvignon Blanc for people who don’t normally go for this variety as they find it too sharp – but there’s nothing wrong with that! Well chilled it is fine for sipping in the sun.
Cepas Privadas Sauvignon Blanc 2019: The herby one
Most wine drinkers will be familiar with Argentina’s signature black grape Malbec and the largest wine region in the country, Mendoza. As Mendoza is principally a warm wine region it may surprise some to learn that it has cooler parts, cool enough to be suitable for Sauvignon Blanc.
The nose is initially all about green pepper and herbs, with touches of green fruits in the background. The palate is fresh and zippy, with a core of minerality around which citrus and herbs are wrapped. I don’t think this wine lives up to the normal RRP of €18, but for €8 it represents very good value.
Aresti Estate Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2020: The grapefruity one
Sauvignon Blanc is one of the key varieties for Chile, especially in Ireland where it is available in pretty much every supermarket, convenience store and off-licence. Hailing from Curicó Valley, Aresti are a family business with several ranges within their portfolio; Estate Selection appears to be their entry level for the Irish market.
It ticks all the boxes you’d expect from an inexpensive SB, but it’s key attribute is drinkability. It’s not going to challenge Sancerre or Marlborough but it’s a very pleasant drop for mid week or even the weekend.
These are obviously inexpensive wines which are for everyday drinking rather than a special treat. The 19 Crimes is noticeably different in style, but has its place. The other three are quite similar and very reasonable wines for sipping outside on a warm summer’s day (if we see one this year in Ireland!) – it comes down to small differences in flavours, aromas and drinkability. On that basis, my narrow favourite is the best all-rounded, the Aresti Estate Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2020.
White Rioja gets far less attention and plaudits compared to red Rioja, mainly due to the fact that white varieties only account for 10% of the total vines in the region. However, when one particular white Rioja recently received a glowing review from Tim Atkin I thought it would be interesting to try. I subsequently saw that Tim had given an early vintage of the same wine his “Wine of the Year” tag in 2017. Before we look at the wine itself, we start with a refresher on the Rioja wine region and a brief background on the producer, Conde Valdemar.
Although Rioja is Spain’s most famous wine region, there are differences between the area of the DOCa and the administrative divisions of the area. There have also been a few name changes over time, confusing things further. To sum up, the wine region extends into four administrative areas:
La Rioja (formerly Lagroño)¹
Álava/Araba: a province in the Basque country
Navarra: historically part of the Basque region, but not currently included in the Basque Autonomous Community²
Burgos:just a tiny part of Burgos for a single vineyard: Hacienda El Ternero³
As can be seen from the map above, the bulk of the Rioja wine region is within the Autonomous Community of La Rioja. The sub-regions are partly based on politics, partly on geography:
Rioja Alavesa: 17 municipalities, entirely within Álava from whence it takes its name
Rioja Alta: literally “Upper Rioja” consisting of 80 municipalities of La Rioja and 1 in Burgos
Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja): literally “Eastern Rioja”, nowadays preferred to “Lower Rioja” which has intimations of low quality, consisting of 42 municipalities in La Rioja and 8 in Navarra.
Structure of Rioja wine trade and 21st century innovations
Although there was a lot of influence and interest from Bordeaux producers in the later part of the nineteenth century, at a high level the Rioja wine trade is more like that of Champagne than Bordeaux; there has long been a distinction – or even divide – between small grape growers and large wine producers.
Wines often consist of several different grapes from across different sub-regions; Rioja Alta tends to be somewhat reserved due to its altitude, Rioja Alavesa is a bit more generous while higher in acidity and Rioja Oriental can be very high in alcohol though a little less elegant. A blend of the three is often the best compromise, though the wine can lack a sense of place and exceptional plots may ended up being blended away.
Two innovations in Rioja this century have had a small affect so far but will be increasingly important in the region. The first has been the addition of new permitted grape varieties in 2007: Maturata Tinta (Jura’s Trousseau), Maturana blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, Turruntés, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. Of course it will take time for these varieties to be planted in the places most suitable for them, but in my opinion this is a good initiative – particularly for the white grapes – as Viura can be too neutral and some of the new grapes have more recognition among customers.
The second initiative is much more recent; in 2017 the Rioja wine authorities announced new label indications including Single Vineyard (Viñedo Singular), Zone and Village names. The hope is that the cream will rise to the top and more top quality wines will emerge.
Conde Valdemar
Family and History
The story begins with Joaquín Martínez Bujanda who began making wine in 1889. His son Marcelino then grandson Jesús both followed into the family business. It was the third and fourth generations – both called Jesús – who set up Conde Valdemar itself in 1985. Today the winery is in the hands of fourth generation Jesús plus his son and daughter Jesús and Ana; the fifth generation are spearheading the family’s fortunes in Valdemar Estates in the USA.
The family has gradually expanded their holdings over the years, and bottles wines from their own estates separately. A notable addition was the 1982 purchase of Finca del Marquesado which is now planted with over 180 hectares of vines.
White Rioja has consistently been championed by Conde Valdemar; they were the first to plant Viura in Alto Cantabria in 1975 and the first winery to make a 100% Tempranillo Blanco wine in 2005. In between these vineyard firsts they were also the first winery to make a 100% barrel-fermented and -matured Spanish white wine in 1988.
Conde Valdemar Wine Range
There are five distinct wine ranges within the Conde Valdemar portfolio; three in Rioja, one in Ribero del Duero and one in Washington State. Unusually for Rioja, Conde Valdemar only produces wine from its own grapes.
Conde Valdemar
Valdemar Lands / Estate Wines
Finca del Marquesado
Fincas Valdemacuco (Ribera del Duero)
Valdemar Estates (USA)
Details of the wines in each range are given at the bottom of this article.
Finca Alto Cantabria
This map (Credit: Conde Valdemar) shows the three grapes planted on the 23.3 hectare site: Viura, Tempranillo Blanco and Tempranillo, with the first accounting for 8.6 hectares. The vineyard is at 489 metres above sea level, 114 metres above the River Ebro. The steep inclines at the edge of the site and strong winds help to avoid frosts and humidity which leads to disease pressure. The soils are a combination of limestone and sandy loam.
Conde Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria 2019
So here we have a wine from a high altitude vineyard which is particularly suited to white grapes and has been classified as a “Viñedo Singular”. As mentioned above this is a 100% Viura wine, but the excellence of the site helps it to exceed the limitations of the variety; a longer growing season means that the grapes can develop fantastic aromas and flavours by the time sugar maturity is reached.
After being hand harvested into shallow boxes the grapes are first temperature stabilised before being pressed. Fermentation of the free run juice begins in stainless steel tanks before being transferred into French oak barrels. The wine matures in barrel for six months with weekly lees stirring.
In the glass this wine is a mid straw yellow. On the nose, oak dominates initially but then gives way to citrus and stone fruits with enticing blossom notes. The palate is complex and smooth, full of ripe fruit and nutty notes, succulent and viscous, rich ripe and vibrant.
This is among the top few white Riojas I have ever tried and represents exceptional value for money.
ABV: 13.0%
RRP:€26 – €27
Stockists: wineonline.ie; The Wine House, Trim
Source: media sample
Conde Valdemar
These are the Bodega’s original wines:
Reds:
Conde Valdemar Tempranillo: 100% Tempranillo, made using a blend of carbonic and traditionally fermented grapes
Conde Valdemar Crianza: 90% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha & 5% Mazuelo, matured in American oak barrels for 19 months
Conde Valdemar Reserva: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 5% Maturana [aka Trousseau, Bastardo] & 5% Garnacha, matured for 27 months in American (65%) and French oak (35%) barrels
Conde Valdemar Gran Reserva: Old vines; 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano & 5% Garnacha, matured for 36 months in French (50%) and American (50%) barriques
Conde Valdemar Edición Limitada: a modern style Rioja made from 60% Tempranillo, 25% Maturana & 15% Graciano, matured for 24 months in French (60%) and American (40%)oak barrels
Whites and Rosés:
Conde Valdemar Rosé:75% Garnacha & 25% Mazuelo
Conde Valdemar Blanco: A traditional white Rioja blend of 60% Viura, 25% Tempranillo Blanco & 15% Malvasía.
Conde Valdemar Tempranillo Blanco: 100% Tempranillo Blanco
Conde Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria: 100% Viura from a single vineyard – further details below
Valdemar Lands / Estate Wines
These are very limited edition wines made from specific single vineyards and single varieties
La Recaja Tempranillo: 100% Tempranillo from a two hectare portion of La Recaja vineyard in Rioja Alavesa, matured for 16 months in French oak barrels
Las Seis Alhajas Graciano: Named “The Six Jewels” after six different clones of Graciano planted as a trial in 1991 to bring the grape back from the brink of disappearance. Matured for 29 months in new, fine-grained American oak barrels.
Balcón de Pilatos Maturana: A revival of the Maturana grape which had disappeared in Rioja during the phylloxera crisis, matured for 13 months in new, fine-grained American oak barrels
Finca del Marquesado
An estate in the east of Rioja, yet at a considerable altitude of 600 m.a.s.l., particularly suitable for Garnacha:
Finca del Marquesado Rosado: 75% Garnacha & 25% Mazuelo
Finca del Marquesado Crianza: 75% Tempranillo & 25% Garnacha, matured for 13 months in American oak barrels
Finca del Marquesado Selección: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano & 10% Garnacha, matured for 12 months in French and American oak barrels
La Gargantilla Garnacha Single Estate Wine: 100% Garnacha from La Gargantilla vineyard, matured for 7 months in French Allier barriques
La Gargantilla Tempranillo Single Estate Wine: 100% Tempranillo from La Gargantilla vineyard, matured for 15 months in French (60%) and American (40%) fine-grained oak barrels
Fincas Valdemacuco
Wines from the Valdemar family’s new outpost in Ribero del Duero:
Fincas Valdemacuco Crianza: 100% Tempranillo from selected vineyards in the area of Nava de Roa (Burgos), matured for 4 months in French (70%) and American (30%) oak barrels
Fincas Valdemacuco Roble: 100% Tempranillo from selected vineyards in the area of Nava de Roa (Burgos), matured for 5 months in American oak barrels
Valdemar Estates (USA)
The family’s newest venture in Walla Walla, Washington State. This was driven by Jesús and Ana Martínez Bujanda
Valdemar Estates Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Klipsun Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA, matured in French oak (60% new, 40% 3 years old) for 18 months
Valdemar Estates Dubrul Vineyard Chardonnay: Barrel-fermented Chardonnay from the Dubrul Vineyard in Yakima Valley, matured for 12 months in French oak (22% new, 78% 3 years old)
Valdemar Estates Blue Mountain Syrah:100% Syrah from the Blue Mountain Vineyard in Walla Walla, matured for 12 months in neutral French oak
¹ The initial letters of Lagroño, Álava and Navarra were the origin of the name of Bodegas LAN, a well known producer.
² The Rioja DOCa extends into the south west part of the Autonomous Community of Navarre, separate from the Navarra DO which is further north.
