Despite the huge amounts of uninspiring Prosecco and Pinot Grigio, a little bit of looking will turn up some Italian whites which are actually interesting. Here are three table whites, a big red and a sweet white wine that are all interesting and worth a try – especially while on offer:
Mucchietto Organic Soave 2023
Soave used to be best known as the cheap-and-not-that-cheerful cheap Italian white wine available in supermarkets and corner shops. A few have kept the flag flying for quality wines in the area, but thankfully many more are available these days. This one comes from Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine, or just Pasqua for short. Among their many wines I have always had a soft spot for their 11 Minutes Rosé, one of the few rosés I will buy for myself.
Made from 100% Garganega, this is made in a clean but aromatic style. Those aromas are peach, nectarine and melon, notes that continue onto the palate. There’s plenty of zippy acidity, and a hint of minerality which keeps the fruit from getting ahead of itself. A great example of Soave.
- ABV: 12.5%
- RRP: €14.49 down from €16.95 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
- Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie
Rizzardi Lugana 2023
Guerrieri Rizzardi is a family-run winery in the Veneto with roots back to the first half of the seventeenth century. As well as the more famous areas of Valpolicella, Soave and Bardolino, they also make wines in the Lugana region around Lake Garda. The local grape here is a version of Trebbiano, though a little more flavoursome than other types.
The grapes for this bottling are sourced from twenty five year old vines – not old, but getting towards middle age – which gives added concentration of flavours. Another arrow in the winemaker’s quivver is extended ageing on fine lees (mainly dead yeast cells from fermentation) which gives a creaminess to the wine’s texture. There are also floral and fruit notes here, with citrus and subtle apricot. Overall this is nicely done, a fresh and engaging wine that’s worth a try.
- ABV: 13.0%
- RRP: €16.99 down from €21.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
- Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie
Cusumano Alta Mora Etna Bianco 2022
As Monty Python once said, “And now for something completely different”. This wine is made in one of most southerly of all Italian wine regions, but at altitude and on the side of a volcano – and hence on distinctive volcanic soil. It’s a monovarietal, made wholly from the local Carricante grape. In contrast to many Italian white varieties, including the two above, is that it is naturally deep yellow in colour, which increases with ageing.
This wine just has so much character! It is broad, tangy and interesting, full of contrasts. There’s orange peel and herbs, minerality and lemon, great freshness and tangy acidity. Among all the fruit there’s also a smokiness which comes through from the volcanic soil. All these elements weave a magic spell leaving the drinker entranced and enhanced. This wine is also one that gains in complexity with ageing, so don’t be afraid to tuck a few away.
ABV: 12.5%
RRP: €22.99 down from €26.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie
Musella Amarone Riserva 2017
I’d forgotten how good Amarone could be. When I first discovered Amarone many years ago it was a real show-stopper, but there are mainly lesser bottles around these days which, although certainly not bad wines, do the area a disservice in their mediocrity.
As with most wines, it’s the producer as well as the appellation that is key. Musella is one of the top “Amarone 13” producers, a family-run outfit and organic too.
This is (natch) a powerful wine, coming in at 16.0%, robust in flavour and texture as well as alcohol. But that’s not the full story, as it is also smooth and well-balanced, with fine tannins and acidity a counterpoint to the dried black and red fruits. With eight years on the clock it’s nicely aged and singing well.
- ABV: 16.0%
- RRP: €43.99 down from €57.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
- Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie
San Felice Belcaro Vin Santo 2016 (half bottle)
Another rapid change of direction, enough to give you whiplash, moving to an oxidative style of sweet wine from Tuscany. Vin Santo is a traditional style of sweet wine made from air-dried white grapes. The drying allows water to evaporate, and hence leaves highly concentrated sugars and flavours. Once pressed, the wine is matured over several years in small oak barrels; oxygen getting into the barrels gives a “rancio” character to the wine, not unlike a tawny Port in nature, though obviously very different in style.
It’s that oxidative aspect which is most obvious on the nose, but the palate is rich yet restrained. With nuts and candied fruits, this is very much a winner for Christmas fare, and – so I understand – even with some cheeses.
- ABV: 16.5%
- RRP: €19.99 down from €25.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
- Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie
Conclusion
The first two whites are nice, but the Etna Bianco is amazing, and that’s the one that I will be picking up several of for myself – with perhaps a couple of Amarone for some relaxed supping in front of the fire.
