Tag: O’Briens

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Three German and Austrian wines from O’Briens

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Now it might seem a little disrespectful to both countries’ great wine-making traditions, but there is some continuity between the two in terms of grape varieties and wine styles. There are differences, too, and those are what add to the world’s delicious vinous tapestry.

Here is a fine trio of white wines in tall, fluted bottles that I tried at the O’Briens press tasting:

Lingenfelder Bird Label Pfalz Riesling 2023

Lingenfelder Bird Label Riesling bottle shot

Although Alsace-nerds know about the Franco-German border moving several times to bring Alsace within each country, it’s lesser known that the Pfalz was annexed by France for a time under Napoleon. The Lingenfelder family have grown grapes in the Pfalz for centuries before Napoleon’s time, and centuries since, reaching thirteen generations with current winemaker Rainer Karl Lingenfelder. Their wines are divided into two distinct ranges. Estate wines focus on the main four varieties grown on Lingenfelder’s own vineyards, being Riesling and Scheurebe whites plus Dornfelder and Pinot Noir reds. The Creature range consists of six approachable varietal wines, each named after a local wild animal.

And this little Birdie is 100% Riesling, made in a rich and juicy style. It’s highly aromatic, with tropical and mouth-wateringly fresh and juicy peach, pear and red apple. There’s a little residual sugar here too, but that balances the acidity and the finish is still nice and crisp. This is a delicious wine and a real crowd-pleaser.

ABV: 10.5%
RRP: €14.99 down from €17.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Rabl Grüner Veltliner Löss 2024

Rabl Grüner Veltliner Löss bottle shot

Weingut Rabl also have a storied history behind them, dating back to 1750. The family farms around a hundred hectares around the town of Langenlois in the region of Kamptal, with a focus on sustainability. In the hands of Rudolf Rabl Jr they have received recognition for both the quality of their wines and their commitment to sustainability.

This bottle – with its pair of umlauts – represents an example of both Austria’s signature grape and a typical soil type. Löss (or Loess in English) is a mixture of sand and silt and a small proportion of clay, usually formed by winds over millennia. It is very fertile and can produce wines on the richer side.

Due to Grüner’s moderate acidity this is a gentle wine, mineral yet fruity; grapefruit and gooseberry along with yellow plum, framed by a mineral edge. An excellent introduction to the grape for those who haven’t tried it before.

ABV: 12.0%
RRP: €15.99 down from €19.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022

Robert Weil Riesling Trocken bottle shot

Back to Germany again, this time in the more northerly region of the Rheingau. Riesling is the king here, with three quarters of all plantings being that noble variety. Weingut Robert Weil has taken this even further, with all of their vineyards being planted to Riesling. Their lands amount around a hundred hectares around the family winery, all farmed sustainably.

On the nose this couldn’t be anything other than Riesling, intense fresh lime infused with herbs. It’s intense enough to clear your sinuses!

Although this wine is labelled as “Trocken”, or “Dry” in English, it has such juicy fruit that it tastes just a smidgen off-dry. It’s fresher than a mountain top, with all manner of citrus and crisp orchard fruits. This isn’t an introduction to Riesling, it is Riesling!

ABV: 12.0%
RRP: €25.99 down from €30.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

These three wines are all great, but quite different in character. If I was opening a bottle for casual wine drinkers, I’d plump for the bird, but for wine enthusiasts it would have to be the Robert Weil; even though it’s more expensive it represents excellent value for money.

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6 Great Value Whites from O’Briens

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With the cost of socialising in bars, pubs and restaurants continuing to rise (the reasons for which I will leave for another day), entertaining at home is seeing a corresponding boost. If your tastes in wine are fairly straightforward, then retail outlets have a great selection of well made, tasty wines at modest prices.

Alternatively,  if you’re into more complex or premium wines which wouldn’t necessarily be appreciated (or even liked) by “normie” visitors, what do you do? My personal wine tastes wouldn’t be liked by everyone, so I like to have some wines in that both guests and myself can enjoy together.

The selection below fulfills both criteria. They are all fresh, easy-drinking styles which I recently tried in the O’Briens press tasting. The description that O’Briens themselves use for this category is “Everyday friendly wines” which is apt, and a lot more concise that I have been above!

Wildflower Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Wildflower Sauvignon Blanc bottle shot

Old timers such as myself will remember Romanian wines on the UK supermarket shelves back in the ’90s, particularly Pinot Noir from the Dealu Mare region. At that point the country was just emerging from decades of dictatorship, but wine has been made their for millenia. Today the industry has modernised significantly, often with investment from other countries who have already been through the process.

Wildflower wines are made in the Viile Timisului region by Englishman Philip Cox and his wife Elvira. They are generally very clean, fruit-forward and accessible in style (also see my reviews of the Pinot Noir and Merlot).

This Sauvignon Blanc is intensely aromatic, varietally correct but not a fascimile of either Loire or Marlborough styles. On the palate there’s lots of sweet, juicy citrus fruits, but with a crisp, fresh finish. This would be a great wine to convert some who “don’t like Sauvignon Blanc” – and very enjoyable for those who do. It’s not a bargain at the full price, but an absolute steal with the promotional reduction.

ABV: 11.5%
RRP: €9.49 down from €14.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Mistral Belles Eaux Sauvignon Blanc

Belles Eaux Mistral Sauvignon Blanc bottle shot

Another Sauvignon Blanc, but this time from the Langedoc in the south of France. If your French isn’t up to scratch then “Belles Eaux” means something like “Beautiful Waters” and “Mistral” is th name of a major wind which affects the region.

The nose is more restrained than the Wildflower, with mineral notes joining fruity and floral aromas.

The palate is full of juicy grapefruit and gooseberry, ripe but fresh. This is a nicely balanced wine, great for sipping on its own, but would be perfect for seafood and salads at the table.

As with the Windflower, the regular price is a little too high in my opinion, but this wine is great value during the promotion.

ABV: 12.0%
RRP: €10.00 down from €15.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Cave de Lugny Mâcon 3 Litre bag-in-box

Bag In Box wine

Yes this is box wine! No, it’s not a joke! With the cost of glass bottles and corks making up a higher proportion of the cost of inexpensive wines, it makes sense for other packaging formats to be used. Bag-in-box (often shortened to BIB) is popular in France and other European wine producing countries where wine is seen as a part of everyday life rather than a luxury.

If you have the space for one in the fridge then you have chilled white wine on tap – what’s not to like? BIBs really come into play if your home’s wine consumption is irregular over a few weeks – as there’s very little oxygen getting in contact with the undispensed wine then the wine stays fresher than opened bottles which are put back into the fridge after a few glasses are poured. This is the perfect solution for drop in guests during the festive season.

Cave de Lugny is regarded as one of France’s top co-operatives and is the largest producer within Burgundy. Its roots go back several centuries and it now vinifies wines from 200 growers who farm 1,300 across 25 villages of the most southerly Burgundy region, the Mâconnais.

Of course as we’re in the Mâconnais this is a 100% Chardonnay. It’s unoaked and clean, though with a little more oomph than wines from further north. The nose is softly floral and fruity – Chardonnay without oak isn’t often highly aromatic. The palate is lovely and round, with ripe melon and sweet apples, but all brought back together with a fresh, lemony finish.

ABV: 12.5%
RRP: €54 down from €60 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Bougrier  Touraine “Les Secrets de Sophie” 2023

The region around the city of Tour – Touraine – offers some of the best value wines of the Loire Valley, though they rarely hit the heights of more illustrious neighbours such as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. That doesn’t mean that diligent vignerons can’t produce very good wines here, with this wine being case in point.

The Bougrier family have been farmers in the Loire for six generations and make a wide variety of wines. You don’t need to know any French to see that this label means “Sophie’s Secrets”! Grapes are reserved from the family’s best plots. After fermentation the young wines are aged on fine lees (basically dead yeast cells, but no skins) to give added compexity and depth.

On the nose this wine is refined, mineral and elegant – classier than a typical Touraine. The palate is tangy, with grapefuit, gooseberry and green pepper notes, though not as raw as others; it’s the lees ageing in full effect. There’s Sauvignon’s usual fresh, acidic finish which brings the wine back into focus.

ABV: 12.5%
RRP: €13.99 down from €19.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Caves Molière Entracte Piquepoul 2024

Caves Molière Picpoul bottle shot

We’re back into coop territory again, this time from the Languedoc in the south of France. Piquepoul has muscled-in on the fresh, easy-drinking white wine space that Pinot Grigio had to itself for a while. For me they can be somewhat generic, meaning I find it difficult to differentiate one Piquepoul from another, but I’m always willing to try!

Caves Molière is a “super co-op”, meaning it was formed from five existing co-operative producers. It now has 410 growers with a total of 2,200 hectares of wines under its banner. These wines fall under five labels: AOP Languedoc Penezas, IGP Pays Côtes de Thongues,  IGP Pays de Caux, IGP Pays d’Oc and Vin de France.

Entracte Piquepoul is one of 13 different wines that Caves Molière make in the Pays d’Oc, of which seven are varietal Entracte label wines. The nose is saline and mineral, which evokes the lagoons close to the coast. Those notes continue through onto the tangy palate, with juicy citrus and hints of melon (only hints, though) on the mid palate.

This is a refreshing wine that is somewhat reminiscent of a Loire Sauvignon, but more restrained. It is definitely more expressive than a typical Piquepoul, so worth a try.

ABV: 12.0%
RRP: €12.99 down from €18.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Domaine Duffour Père et Fils Côtes de Gascogne 2024

Duffour Père et fils Côtes de Gascogne bottle shot

Gascony’s best known beverages are probably its Armagnacs rather than its table wines. Indeed, two of the three grapes in this blend – Ugni Blanc and Colombard – are better known for their use in brandy production. Gros Manseng is the third grape, firmly rooted in the south west. The wine is produced at the Duffour family’s Domaine Saint-Lannes operation, one they have owned since 1955.

The nose is grassy and herby, so much that I had to check the assemblage as Sauvignon Blanc is also permitted in Côtes de Gascogne wines. The palate is vastly different, a revelation of intensely juicy fruit. There’s every kind of tropical fruit you can think of in here, but all bound together by a fresh acidic structure. With so much pleasure in the glass, I’d buy this without hesitation at the regular price, so it goes without saying that it’s a total steal at just €10 on promotion.

ABV: 11.0%
RRP: €10.00 down from €14.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

If you didn’t already notice, these wines are all fairly modest in alcohol, ranging between 11.0% and 12.5%, making them perfect for a lunchtime tipple during the holidays.

Quality and enjoyment wise, I would be perfectly happy to sup any of these. In terms of drinking pleasure and value for money, there is a clear winner for me. Regular readers will express no surprise when I say that the aromatic blend from Domaine Duffour is the one that’s going in my fridge – it’s a cracker!

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Perfect Pinots from O’Briens

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To kick off my reviews of the wines on promotion at O’Briens this winter, here’s a look at four Pinot Noirs, four from Burgundy and one from the USA.

Why Pinot Noir

In terms of seasons, Pinot Noir is more autumnal than a classic winter red variety. Compared to Bordeaux and Rhône varieties, Pinot Noir is lighter and, while often great with food, is easier to drink on its own. This makes it a great choice as a sipping wine, especially as it very rarely comes with a blockbuster alcohol content.

What it does have is the combination of lightness and fresh acidity which makes it perfect for pairing with both red meat and poulty at the table (and plenty of vegetarian options, for that matter.) Here in Ireland the most common Xmas dinner is turkey and ham with all the trimmings, so Pinot is perfect.

For the wine geek there’s an additional attraction; Pinot Noir is very expressive of the place in which it is grown, just as Riesling is among white varieties. Pinot was one of the two varieties which Burgundian monks used to map out the demarcations of vineyards by the differences in character in the wines that they yielded. This terroir transparency is increasingly utilised in the new world, though has a long way to catch up.

So now onto the wines themselves:

Seguin-Manuel Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022

Seguin-Manuel Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022 bottle shot

Having talked about the terroir-transparency of Pinot Noir, it’s also important to note that the producer of a particular bottle is also key in Burgundy. Domaine Seguin-Manuel was founded back in 1824 and today has a compact and bijoux eight and a half hectares of vineyards across the Côte d’Or. The Domaine was bought by Thibaut Marion – himself a tenth generation winemaker – in 2004, with a focus on continuously improving quality and expressing the local terrior.

This simple Bourgogne includes fruit from more prestigious appellations. Declassifying fruit like this improves the quality of the posher wine (only the best berries are kept for that) and the humbler wine (as the grapes blended into the basic cuvée are still better than those from the basic appellation. This is the Burgundy equivalent of the second (and sometimes third) wines of the Médoc’s top chateaux.

The result in the glass is a red Burgundy with more structure and depth than we’d have any right to expect. It has floral and red fruit notes on the nose, with a juicy and thick palate. This is definitely more of a winter Pinot than a summer Pinot – and all the better for it in my opinion.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €27.99 down from €29.95 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Domaine Antoine Olivier Santenay Temps des C(e)rises 2023

Santenay Rouge Le Temps des C(e)rises bottle shot

Santenay is an appellation surrounding the village of the same name in the Côte de Beaune, the southern half of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. Around 85% of production is red and the balance white, with the usual Pinot Noir and Chardonnay taking the respective lead roles. What is relatively unusual is that the AOC regulations allow Pinot Blanc to be used for whites, and up to 15% Pinot Blanc and / or Pinot Gris used for red wines. There are no Grand Cru climats within Santenay and a dozen Premier Crus.

Antoine Olivier follows in the footsteps of his winemaking father and grandfather, taking over in 2003. The Domaine has been slowly expanded to include sites in the nearby villages of Savigny, Pommard and Rully, and has included replanting in previously abandoned vineyard sites. Antoine is now the most significant producer of Santenay Blanc.

This Santenay Rouge has a lifted, floral nose with fragrant red fruits. The titular cherries appear on the palate, along with strawberries and raspberries. This is the proper Burgundy experience in a glass. It’s not cheap, but you pay for the elegance and delight in it.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €34.99 down from €40.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022

la crema sonoma coast pinot noir bottle shot

Sideways fans will think of the Santa Barbara area for California Pinot, but the Sonoma Coast also does well with the variety. The AVA is at the western part of Sonoma County, running along the Pacific coast. There are nine sub-regions of which the Russian River Valley AVA is the most well known. Cool coastal breezes and banks of chilly fog both help to reduce temperatures compared to further inland.

La Crema makes wines in five regions in the northern half of California – from Monterey up to Anderson Valley – plus Willamette Valley in Oregon. Their Sonoma Coast wines include “regional” bottlings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, topped by single vineyard expressions of each variety.

This Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is intensely aromatic, with punnets of fresh red fruits and a few black berries too. The palate is also complex, with bright fruits and mocha notes. There’s spice here too, though everything is well balanced and harmonious. If your opinion of California wines is that they lack subtlety then you owe it to yourself to try this wine.

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €30.99 down from €40.99 via the O’Briens app in December
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Seguin-Manuel Nuits-Saint-Georges “Vieilles Vignes” 2021

Seguin-Manuel Nuits Saint Georges Vieilles Vignes bottle shot

Seguin-Manuel bottle over 50 different wines, including seven Grands Crus. This old vine Nuits-Saint-Georges sits somewhere around the middle of the range in terms of quality – but this is no middling wine. The vines are over 30 years old and sit on clay and limestone soils south of the town itself. After hand harvesting, the grapes are pressed and allowed to ferment over two and a half weeks. The young wine is then matured for 14 months in a mix of new (25%) and older (75%) oak casks.

Just a sniff of this wine is enough to let you know it’s the real deal. When wine geeks talk about the chase for great Burgundy, this is what they mean. Everything is lifted, heightened, powerful, yet purposeful. It tastes just heavenly, but the experience is more about how it makes you feel – special. This is a special wine that would make an amazing Xmas treat.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €65 down from €79 in the O’Briens December Fine Wine Sale
  • Source: O’Briens stores

Conclusion

These wines are all at appropriate price points, and you really do get what you pay for. The La Crema is a total bargain at the promotional price, but the Nuits-Saint-George is a really special wine that would make an amazing gift for any Pinot fan.

Make Mine A Double

O’Briens Summer Sips (2) Juicy reds

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After two fresh whites, now it’s time to look at a couple of juicy red wines in the O’Briens French wine sale:

Belles Eaux Gloriette Syrah 2022

wine label

Belles Eaux is another Languedoc producer bottled by Les Grands Chais de France (GCF). Whereas Château wines are AOC, those without the prefix are simpler varietal IGP wine.

For those not aware – and that group included myself until very recently – a Gloriette is an outdoor room, raised above its surroundings. Francophiles might twig that Gloriette is the diminutive of “Gloire”, an alternative word for “room” in French.

Syrah is an important grape in the Languedoc, though rarely seen as a single varietal – it’s often blended with Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault, among others. This is a clean, unoaked and fruit forward example. Given the ample 13.5% alcohol, one might think that this is a bold and weighty wine, but it’s actually more medium in heft, and a little lighter in colour than typical for the grape.

There’s fruit and spice here, but it’s red cherry rather than warmer climate Shiraz’s blackberry and black cherry. On a warm day this was a tasty and refreshing wine after being chilled for 30 minutes. If you’re not a rosé lover then this makes for a great outdoor alternative.

  • RRP: €14.95 down to €10.00 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 13.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Belles Eaux Mistral Merlot 2023

wine label

This Merlot is named after the Mistral wind which hits the Languedoc and Provence from the south. It’s somewhat bigger and bolder than it’s Syrah counterpart above – deeper in colour, a little higher in alcohol and more weighty. There’s even a little tannin on the finish which helps keeep the fruit from becoming too jammy.

Although obviously not suitable for Merlot-avoiders, this is a very quaffable wine that is enjoyable on its own or with hearty food…it’s barbecue season at the moment so worth buying while on offer.

  • RRP: €14.95 down to €10.00 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 14.0%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

I really liked both of these wines, and I think they are worth the regular price tag. Choosing between them is a preference of style rather than a difference in quality. At the offer price I’d snap both of them up!

**Click here to see more posts in the Make Mine a Double Series**

 

 

Make Mine A Double

O’Briens Summer Sips (1) Fresh whites

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The 2025 French wine sale is underway at O’Briens so I thought I’d take the opportunity to try out a few of the wines on offer. Not the most expensive, but the most moderately priced, and, most importantly, new to me. Here are a pair of fresh whites:

La Baume La Grande Olivette Pays d’Oc Albariño 2023

Wine label

When I first got into wine, La Baume wines were great value Languedoc offerings in my local Sainsbury’s. On the evidence of this bottle, that still seems to be the case.

Wines labelled just “La Baume” appear to be negotiant wines, bottled at a large facility owned by parent Les Grands Chais de France (GCF). Those with “Domaine de la Baume” are made on the property of the original winery, from their own fruit, and carry a correspondingly higher price tag.

“La Grande Olivette” simply means “The Large Olive Tree”, evoking the Mediterranean landscape.

But then we come to the elephant in the room – Albariño! This Spanish variety is rarely seen in France, though it has recently been added to the list of permitted grapes in Bordeaux on an experimental basis. In Spain it is most well known in Galicia, and at its best in the region of Rías Baixas close to the Atlantic coast. It also thrives as Alvarinho over the border into Portugal.

So how does this French example compare? It’s quite aromatic on the nose, but clean and fresh on the palate. There’s citrus and stone fruit here, though not as ripe and juicy as some examples of Albariño. It does have the mineral and saline characteristics of the variety, though, and could even pass for a dry Riesling. On a warm summer day it went down a treat, and was praised by several guests who also tasted it.

  • RRP: €16.95 down to €12.95 in the French wine sale
  • ABV: 12.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

La Salette Blanc Côtes de Gascogne 2024

Wine label

Gascogne, or Gascony in English, is the far south western part of France. It’s more well known for Armagnac than for table wine, but it’s the exception to the rules that if a region produces grape-based drinks other than table wine – think Sherry, Champagne, Cognac – then the table wines are sub-par.

Many of the grapes grown here originated here, and are rarely seen elsewhere. Even when some interloping Sauvignon Blanc is included in a blend, however, the wines still reflect their geographic origin.

Domaine Duffour was founded by Michel in 1982 and is still a family concern.

Like this example they are often light-ish in alcohol, unoaked and full of juicy fruits. In fact, there’s more fruit here than you’ve got any right to expect at this price. On the attack there are tropical mango, pineapple and with a zippy fresh finish. Many would guess it to be a Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s actually made from local heroes Colombard and Gros Manseng.

This is a wonderful wine which tastes on par with wines costing far more.

  • RRP: €14.95 down to €10.00 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 11.0%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

This was quite an easy choice for me.

The Albariño is good but not great, a little short on fruit for my taste. It’s definitely worth trying, and good value at the offer price, but I think I’d choose other wines of the same variety when it’s listed at full price.

I’ve often said that Côtes de Gascogne whites are the best value on the market, and La Salette is a fantastic example. I’d pay the full price without blinking, and the offer price makes it a steal. It’s the taste of summer in a glass!

 

**Click here to see more posts in the Make Mine a Double Series**

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tasting Events

The Pommery Champagne Terrace at the Dylan Hotel

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Pommery Champagne Terrace at the Dylan Hotel

I was recently invited to the 2024 launch of the Pommery Champagne Terrace at the Dylan Hotel in Dublin. As a bubbly fanatic I didn’t have to be asked twice! Although I was a guest of Dalcassian, Pommery’s representatives in Dublin, I wasn’t asked to write this article, which contains my opinions only.

The Dylan Hotel is tucked away in Ballsbridge, the only boutique 5 star hotel in Dublin. I have happy memories of a work dinner / wine tasting there some years ago where I was set loose on the wine list.

The Pommery Champagne Terrace

The Terrace is located at the front of the Dylan Hotel, a few feet above road level and protected by a hedge. There are lots of parasols to protect against the morning sun plus dark blue Pommery branded cushions and blankets to stave off a Dublin evening chill.

Of course there is a theme to the drinks list on the terrace, and it’s Pommery Champagne. For the more adventurous there are also three Pommery-based cocktails, including a Bellini (that’s right, changing up from the original recipe with Prosecco!) The real action though is in the different Pommery Cuvées, from the “standard” (I wouldn’t dare call it entry level) Brut Royal all the way up to the iconic Cuvée Louise.

Dylan Menu drinks

The food menu is casual but high quality, with a seafood bias that’s perfect for chilled Champagne. Of course the cheese is lost on me, but I really enjoyed the charcuterie that I tried.

Dylan Menu bites

Champagne Pommery

Monsieur Alexandre-Louis Pommery and his wife Madame Jeanne Alexandrine Pommery had an unexpected addition to their family when she was 38 and he was already retired. Needing a regular income again to raise their child, he decided to go back into business, but this time buying into the booming Champagne trade on top of his textile business. He became a senior partner in Pommery & Greno, with Narcisse Greno continuing as a junior partner.

Sadly Alexandre died only two years later, so Veuve Pommery took over the running of Champagne Pommery herself. She was a formidable businesswoman and very innovative, making a much-derided decision to reduce the houses dosage and produce the first commercially available Brut style in 1874. This proved to be hugely popular in the English market which had less of a sweet tooth than the American and Russian markets. This success gave Pommery enough of a financial cushion to invest in a huge cellar complex, digging into the chalk seams dozens of metres underground.

Fast forward to the present day, and Champagne Pommery remains a Grande Marque and is part of the Vranken-Pommery Monopole group, the second largest in Champagne. Partnering with Hattingley Valley, Pommery also produces English Sparkling Wine under the label Louis Pommery

Today the Champagne Pommery range has 4 lines:

  • Royal: Brut Royal, Brut Rosé Royal, Royal Blue Sky, Grand Cru Royal
  • Cuvée Apanage: Brut, Rosé, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs
  • Cuvée Louise: Brut Millésime, Rosé Millésime, Brut Nature Millésime
  • Les Clos Pompadour: A 100% Grand Cru super premium cuvée with Chardonnay from Avize & Cramant and Pinot Noir from Aÿ, aged on the lees en magnum for 15 years

Champagne Pommery Brut Royale NV

Champagne Pommery Brut Royal NV bottle shot

So onto the wine itself, the star of the show. The blend is approximately equal thirds of the three main Champange grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, with the precise percentages changing slightly depending on the bottling. The grapes are sourced from a large number of villages around the Champagne region – many of them Grand and Premier Cru – to give the cellarmaster a broad choice of elements with which to make his assemblage.

Ageing in Pommery’s famous cellars takes 36 months, over double the regulatory minimum of 15 months, and enough to gain noticeable leesy character. On the nose it’s the Chardonnay that grabs the attention with fresh lemon and lime notes, but then on the palate there are also appley notes (from the Meunier) and red fruits (from the Pinot Noir). This is a very well put together wine which deserves more recognition for its quality – and has a great story behind it, too.

 

Tasting Events

Wine Review: Four Festive Treats from O’Briens

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If there is any style of wine that we automatically think of during the colder months, it’s Port. Like dogs, Port is not just for Christmas: it can be enjoyed at any time of the year. But there is something to be said about our drinking choices being informed by the seasons, even if those seasons aren’t as marked in Ireland as in continental climes.

That being said, as any WSET graduate will tell you, “Port-style” is shorthand for a fortified wine where grape spirit has been added during fermentation to stop the sugars turning into more alcohol, thus preserving some of the natural sweetness from the grapes. This method is used in many other places, both in Europe and further afield.

Here are four sweet wines from O’Briens that are all worth a try:

Smith Woodhouse 10-year old Tawny Port

Smith Woodhouse 10 year old Tawny Port bottle shot

So we start our quartet with an actual Port, from Oporto. Next year Smith Woodhouse will be celebrating its 240th anniversary, but it remains an under-the-radar producer, despite being part of the renowned Symington Family portfolio. The lack of brand recognition is actually good news for drinkers as Smith Woodhouse wines tend to represent great value for money.

Like most Ports this is a blend of local varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz and Tinto Cão, each of which bring something different to the blend. After fermentation has begun, premium grape spirit is added to stop fermentation. The wine is then aged for a minimum of 10 years in old oak barrels, without topping up, so the ingress of oxygen can magically transform the wine over time. That magic turns ripe fresh berry flavours into dried fruit notes, with an assortment of nuts and burnt caramel. The tannins and acidity haven’t faded away over the decade so they provide a firm structure for the fruit and nuts.

Such a nutty and funky wine, a real pleasure.

  • RRP: €34.95 for 750 ml (current down to €31.95)
  • ABV: 20.0%
  • Source: O’Briens press tasting
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie (currently out of stock online)

San Felice Vin Santo del Chainti Classico 2014

San Felice Belcaro Vin Santo 2014 bottle shot

The origins of Vin Santo are disputed, but it has long been established thoughout Italy. Chianti is home to the best examples, which tend to be more oxygen-influenced than in other regions. Unlike the great majority of Ports, Vin Santo is made with white grapes – in this case Malvasia and Trebbiano – which are air-dried for three months to concentrate sugar and flavours. The shriveled grapes are pressed ever-so-gently so that harsh compounds are not extracted from the skins, and then the juice is transferred to small oak barrels for a slow fermentation and maturation.

The finished wine is rich but balanced, with acidity offsetting the sweet dried fruits (think sultanas rather than raisins), nuts and mixed peel. I’ve tried some Vin Santos before which missed the mark, but this is simply delicious!

  • RRP: €22.95 for 375 ml (current down to €19.95)
  • ABV: 15.5%
  • Source: O’Briens press tasting
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie (currently out of stock online)

Gérard Bertrand Maury Tuilé 2010

Gérard Bertrand Maury Tuilé 2010 bottle shot

Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) could be seen as France’s answer to Port, though they tend to be a little lighter than their Portuguese cousins, whether Muscat-based whites or Grenache-based reds. The AOCs are mainly found in the Rhône, the Languedoc and its neighbour Roussillon. Along with Rivesaltes and Banyuls, Maury is one of three red Roussillon appellations. A variety of styles are made, mainly depending on the length of maturation in barrel (“Tuilé”, giving a brick- or tile-red colour) or in demi-johns exposed to the sun “Rancio” which are lighter still.

This example is a Tuilé made by southern superstar Gérard Bertrand. Although regulations demand a minimum of 75% Grenache, this is 100% late-harvested Grenache Noir. Pneumatic presses are used for their gentle touch, with grape spirit added to arrest fermentation. Maturation is in oak barrels for a year then in bottle for another year before release, so it is somewhere between Ruby and Late Bottled Vintage in Port terminology.

Although made in a similar way, this is lighter in both alcohol and structure than most ports; the latter due mainly to the relative softness of Grenache compared to the Port varieties. This does make it more approachable, and it’s the perfect partner for chocolate! The fruits here are stewed rather than dried, so it’s a fresher style – sup away!

  • RRP: €25.45 for 750 ml (current down to €22.95)
  • ABV: 16.0%
  • Source: Sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Bethany “Old Quarry” Tawny NV

Bethany Old Quarry Tawny NV bottle shot

Although table wines have been made in Australia for centuries, fortified wines were the mainstay of the industry for much of its history. Given the (ab)use of terms such as Burgundy and Claret, it’s no surprise that sweet fortified reds were known as Port down under. The varieties used weren’t those of Portugal, however; the Rhône favourites of Grenache and Shiraz were favoured.

Bethany is a well-established producer in the Barossa Valley, in the heart of South Australia. In fact, the village of Bethany was the first settlement in the Barossa after Silesian immigrants moved there in 1842. The Schrapel family trace their roots in the area back to 1844 and planted the first vineyard there just eight years later. Fifth generation brothers Geoff and Robert set up Bethany Wines in 1981, with the sixth generation Tania now also in the business. The winery and cellar door lie within the former quarry which the Schrapel family operated up to the 1930 – hence the name of this wine and also their “Blue Quarry Wines” range.

Of course nowadays the “P-word” can’t be used on the label, but “Tawny” is perfectly acceptible. And indeed this is Tawny in style, with ten years of maturation in old oak barrels giving complex notes of dried fruits and nuts. It’s a rich wine, but well balanced and approachable, and for me the spicy Shiraz just add that extra dimension.

  • RRP: €24.95 for 750 ml
  • ABV: 18.5%
  • Source: Sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie (currently out of stock online)

 

 

 

Single Bottle Review, Wine Of The Week

Wine Review: Longview Adelaide Hills “The Piece” Shiraz 2016

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A delicious Aussie Shiraz with a bit of age – what’s not to like? First a quick overview of its home region, Adelaide Hills, followed by an introduction to its producer, Lonview Vineyard, and finally some tasting notes.

Adelaide Hills

Adelaide Hills is the coolest region within South Australia, the biggest source of quality wine within Australia. Climate change has made its precious altitiude even more vital. The majority of plantings are varieties which thrive in cool climates – Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris – but also those which are happy across different climatic conditions, especially Chardonnay, and as we have here, Shiraz.

Adelaide Hills Wine Region Map
Credit: wineaustralia.com

Adelaide Hills only became a protected Geographic Indication (GI) 25 years ago, which shows that it is a relative newcomer compared to South Australia’s internationally famous regions such as Coonawarra and the Barossa Valley. Its cool climate is partially from its relative proximity to the Southern Ocean, but even more than that due to its elevation. The hills to the east of Adelaide form part of the Mount Lofty Ranges (yet another super original Australian name!) There are two official sub-regions, Lenswood and Piccadilly, the latter of which is particularly renowned for its Chardonnay.

Longview Vineyard

Notice that the name includes Vineyard, singular? I had to catch myself from adding an ‘s’, but the moniker is deliberate as the property consists of a single vineyard. As Longview was founded in 1995 it predates the GI, though the first vintage wasn’t until 2001. Admittedly it’s a large vineyard at 65 hectares, and reaches up to 410m at its highest point. Ownership is in the hands of brothers Mark and Peter Saturno; their Italian heritage is supported by the inclusion of Italian varieties Nebbiolo, Barbera and Pinot Grigio.

The current range extends to around twenty wines, of which five are currently available in Ireland:

  • LV Shiraz Cabernet
  • Vista Shiraz Barbera
  • Devil’s Elbow Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Yakka Shiraz
  • The Piece Shiraz

Among those not available here are those in the Macclesfield Range which they call “our collection of premium, small-batch wines that reflect the unique geology and climate of Macclesfield.” Interestingly one is labelled as a Syrah rather than Shiraz. Perhaps we might see some of these up here in the future?

Longview “The Piece” 2016

Longview Vineyard Adelaide Hills The Piece Shiraz 2016 Bottle and Canister

Before we even get into the wine itself, a few words on the label and packaging. Yes, in the end it’s “the juice” that counts, but if a label or a container helps to catch the eye of a wine lover browsing the shelves, I have no problem with that. Innovation should be encouraged!

The 2016 bottling of The Piece has a grafitti theme, and came in a container looking like a spray-can. I particularly liked the “Shiraz Gloss” label just above the vintage label. The theme arose as a tribute to Longview’s “The Piece Project” where Australian street artists compete to have their work featured on the label.

Now, onto the wine! Grapes for The Piece are a very small part of the estates Shiraz production; the best rows in the best blocks are harvested separately from the surrounding vines. Alcoholic fermentation is temperature controlled, after which the wine is transferred to old French oak hogsheads and puncheons. Malolactic fermentation takes place there, and the wine is left to mature for another year and a half. There’s then a final selection of the best barrels – ten in the case of the 2016 vintage, but as few as five for 2019.

The wine team aim for “cool climate spice” as one of the key attributes of this wine, and it really shows on the nose – it’s like Christmas cake without the icing; sweet, confected fruits with spice and treacle. The palate also has sweet berry fruit, though it’s rich and appealing without being sugary. The finish has fine tannins and a balancing streak of acidity. Overall this is a well-made, nicely balanced wine.

  • ABV: 14.5%
  • RRP: €42 (2018/9)
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: 2018/9 at O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

 

 

 

 

 

Single Bottle Review

Wine Review: Astrolabe Taihoa Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2020

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Astrolabe’s winemaker Simon Waghorn is a master of his trade. Speaking to him recently, I was reminded of a chef who can make Bib gourmand bistro-style food but also Michelin-starred fine dining – though without the airs and graces.

As you move up the Astrolabe Sauvingon Blanc range the wines go from tasty all-rounders to increasingly complex; the fruit sources move from the whole region, to sub-regions, to single vineyard. For example, the Awatere Valley bottling is a real showcase of tha sub-region’s style, with leafy and herbal notes developed over a longer growing season, but some of the fruit from the Awatere also goes into the Province Sauvingon Blanc. Similarly, fruit from the Taihoa vineyard is bottled on its own – as below – but also with other Kēkerengū fruit as the Kēkerengū Coast Sauvignon Blanc.

I tried the 2017 vintage of the Taihoa a few years ago and was very impressed, so was keeen to try the current vintage: 2020.

Astrolabe Taihoa Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2020

It is not well appreciated by folks up here that the Marlborough Wine GI actually extends down the coast to include the Kaikōura District as well as the Marlborough District itself:

Marlborough wine region map
Credit: Jonathan Harker

Plantings are much more scarce compared to the main three sub-regions and farming is often mixed

The Taihoa Vineyard is on the Kēkerengū Coast, just over the administrative border into Kaikōura District. The vineyard is owned by Paddy and Anna Trolove and consists of two small blocks on flat terraces close to the sea. The influence of the sea extends the growing season in both directions; budburst arrives early yet the cold winds from the south delay full ripening until after the rest of Marlborough.

Unlike in central Marlborough, grapes from the Taihoa vineyard are hand-picked.  Fermentation is in barrel with indigenous yeasts, followed by maturation in French oak barrels. These practices impart significant body and texture to the wine, as well as additional aromas and flavours.

In the glass this 2020 vintage is lemony-gold, just a fraction darker than the more modest Sauvignons. The nose is very expressive, with lots of rich lees character coming through on top of typical Sauvignon notes of grapefruit, lemon and passionfruit. The mouthfeel is what really sets it apart, with an almost chewy texture. The lees influence is still prominent on the palate, along with tropical fruit and nutty notes

This is Astrolabe’ top Sauvignon Blanc and retails for a little over twice the price of its Regions Marlborough Sauvignon. Is it worth the money? It really depends what you’re after; it’s a weekend treat rather than a weekday sipper. At O’Briens it’s €0.50 more than Cloudy Bay, and as good as Cloudy Bay is, I find the Taihoa Vineyard much more interesting. I think I’ll treat myself!

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €39.45
  • Source: tasted at O’Briens Wine Festival #obwinefest
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie
Wine Of The Week

Wine Review: Kangarilla Road McLaren Vale Terzetto

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Among the criticism thrown at Australian wine – with a little justification, I feel – is that there isn’t enough variety in the grapes grown. This is borne out in the figures, with the top eight varieties accounting for close to 75% of all wine grown in the country.

Thankfully, there are other interesting grapes grown in Oz, and for me McLaren Vale stands out for its Italian varieties. Kangarilla Road make one such wine, but before we look at the wine itself, let’s have a reminder on McLaren Vale and Kangarilla Road.

McLaren Vale

McLaren Vale map

Which wine styles come to mind when you think of McLaren Vale? Shiraz and southern Rhône-style GSM blends are certainly the most important, even if the GSM order is often rearranged. Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc also make an appearance as key international varieties. However, the other varieties that the Vale specialises in are those of the Mediterranean, including:

  • Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Vermentino and Fiano (from Italy)
  • Grenache Blanc and Roussanne (from the Rhône / Spain / southern France)
  • Tempranillo (from Spain)

I don’t know for sure why McLaren Vale became the hub for Italian varieties in Australia. Most likely there were Italian immigrants in the area (as was the case across much of Australia) and they found that the vine cuttings they brought worked really well in the Vale.

Kangarilla Road

Kangarilla Road Winery was founded by Kevin O’Brien (no relation to O’Briens Wines, as far as I know) in 1997. He caught the wine bug at university as a member of the Rowing Club – they often drank wine at social events and organised tours to Australian wine regions. He was hooked; he changed from a general science degree to Oenology and pursued a career in wine. He combined a research-heavy role at the Australian Research Institute (AWRI) with travelling and working in European countries such as France, Italy, Spain and Portugal.

He met and subsequently married a like-minded soul in Helen. Together they pursued a dream of having their own winery, and in 1997 bought the former Cambrai vineyard on McLaren Vale Flats. At that time it already had Australia’s largest plantings of Zinfandel / Primitivo, then came Chardonnay, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, and finally more Italian varieties.

This is the current Kangarilla Road portfolio:

  • Kangarillo Road Whites: Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, “Sixmo” Chardonnay, Fiano, Duetto (Vermentino & Fiano), “The Veil” Vermentino Under Flor
  • Kangarilla Road Reds: Shiraz, “Thieving Angels” Shiraz, Nero d’Avola, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Primitivo, “Black St Peter’s” Zinfandel, “Devil’s Whiskers” Shiraz, “Alluvial Fans” Shiraz, “Blanche Point” Shiraz, “Q” Shiraz
  • Other labels: Strada Bianco (Chardonnay & Vermentino), Sparkling Chardonnay / Pinot NV, Street Cred Sparkling Shiraz NV, 2Up Shiraz

You may notice that Terzetto is not on the list above; I understand that this blend is no longer made, so snap it up while you can!

Kangarilla Road McLaren Vale Terzetto 2013

Kangarilla Road Terzetto

Before researching this wine I wondered if Terzetto was an obscure Italian grape that I hadn’t yet tried. Alas, no: Terzetto is simply the Italian term for “Trio”, perfectly apt as this is a blend of three Italian varieties:

  • Sangiovese (from Tuscany, but widely grown in other Italian regions)
  • Primitivo (from Puglia)
  • Nebbiolo (from Piedmont)

Each Kangarilla Road wine has an image of its variety’s leaf on the label, so for this wine all three are featured.

It pours a cherry red, most definitely not the Shiraz (which is also available in Ireland). It has a very perfumed nose, with deep red fruit notes – fresh and dried – plus orange peel, tobacco, balsamic, vanilla and herbs. In the mouth it has lovely fruits, just as on the nose. The mouthfeel is soft in the centre but with prickly edges – often a sign of acidity. Although now nine years old there is still some evidence of oak, tobacco and balsamic notes and the palate, with a chocolate finish

This is a modestly priced wine which tastes much more expensive. It’s more interesting than most wines at this price point and higher. As it looks like there won’t be any more of this coming our way I’ve already bought a few more bottles to enjoy over the coming years.

  • ABV: 14.5%
  • RRP: €17.95
  • Source: purchased from O’Briens
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores, though only a few bottles left