Tag: Loire Valley

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3 Superior Sauvignons from O’Briens

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Sauvignon Blanc makes very popular easy-drinking wines across the globe, but in the right places and in the right hands it can make serious and interesting wines.

Here are three from O’Briens, one from Bordeaux which is a blend, and two from opposite sides of the Loire River.

Domaine de Bel Air Pouilly-Fumé 2023

Domaine de Bel Air Pouilly Fumé bottle shot

You don’t have to be a Fresh Prince to drink this wine, though you may end up feeling fresh if you imbibe too much! OK, I’ll lay off the dad jokes now.

Pouilly-Fumé is less well known than its competitor across the river, but can produce some excellent wines. Its soils have consistently more flint than Sancerre which gives a typical wine more smokey (“fumé”) characteristics. And of course, less renown often means a lower price tag for the same quality, and I’m all for that.

Domaine de Bel Air covers 14 hectares and is farmer sustainably by the Maroy family. The grapes for this wine come from vines planted on three different soil types (stoney “caillotte”  limestone,  marly “terre blanches” limestone and flint). This blend of origins gives the wine a complex palate – citrus, orchard fruit and smoky mineral notes. It has a little more flesh than a Sancerre, making it a rounder and less lean wine. This is a great example of Pouilly-Fumé!

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €21.99 down from €25.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Château Villa de Bel-Air Graves Blanc 2023

Chateau Villa Bel Air Blanc bottle shot

The Graves region of south west Bordeaux has actually been making quality wine for far longer than its northern neighbour the Médoc, primarily down to the later being naturally swampy and therefore unsuitable for viticulture. For centuries since the draining of the swamp, Graves – including its premium sub-region of Pessac-Léognan – have played second fiddle to their northerly neighbours. But this lack of recognition is a bonus for wine lovers who can find well made wines at good prices. As this wine itself shows, that includes white wines; Graves is the main source of premium dry wines in Bordeaux.

Château Villa Bel-Air has origins in the 1700s and lies on gravel soils in the centre of the Graves region. It’s a blend of the two most important white varieties in Bordeaux: Sauvignon Blanc (65%) and Sémillon (35%). The grapes are only part of the story; fermentation in oak and maturation on fine lees give roundness, richness and complexity to the palate. It doesn’t result in a buttery mess, however, as the acidity from the Sauvignon gives freshness and balance.

On pouring, the oak is noticeable on the nose, though likely very few of the oak barrels were new as there is restraint in their power. There’s fruit there, too, with citrus and light melon notes. The palate is lovely and round, with green and yellow fruit intermingled with oak notes.

The Pesac-Léognan sub-region was created for good reason, but this is a Graves that would be worthy of that label in terms of quality. Even staunch Burgundy fans owe it to themselves to try this wine.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €21.99 down from €25.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Henri Bourgeois ES-56 Silex Sancerre 2022

Henri Bourgeois Sancerre ES-56 bottle shot

Domaine Henri Bourgeois is a standout producer from the central Loire. Among the many wines made by the Domaine, this Sancerre is a real standout. The grapes are sourced solely from vines grown on silex (flint) soils which were formed 56 million years ago, known as the Eocene period, giving this bottle its name.

After picking and pressing, part of the must is fermented in stainless steel tanks (to retain freshness) and part is fermented in Tronçais oak barrels. the young wine matures on fine lees – which are stirred periodically – for seven to eight months.

The nose is intensely mineral and smoky, and really couldn’t be anything else. The palate also has delicious smoky notes, with a tang from the oak as well as a citrus tang from the fruit itself. The oak ageing and lees stirring add lots of texture to the wine, making it quite savoury in nature.

At three years from harvest this is already opening nicely, but should continue to evolve for another five to seven years. It’s definitely not for the casual drinker, and is carries a premium price, but is an amazing example of what can be done with the grape.

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €33.99 down from €43.99 in the O’Briens December Fine Wine Sale
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

While having a grape in common, these wines are entirely different in style. The Pouilly-Fumé is unoaked and straight forward, though very tasty. The Graves is more complex and even better value. The Sancerre is an amazing wine, one of the best I tried at the O’Briens tasting, and it’s the one I will be picking up for myself.

Make Mine A Double

SuperValu French Wine Sale 2025 (3) Classic whites

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So far from the 2025 edition of the SuperValu French Wine Event we’ve had a standout red from the Rhône and a pair of party wines.

Now we have a pair of classic white wines. I’ve tasted and even reviewed several previous vintages of these wines

Domaine de Terres Blanches “Alchimie” Coteaux Giennois Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Coteaux du Giennois Alchimie bottle shot

From a lesser-known Loire appellation comes this great value Sauvignon Blanc. You’d hope that an AOC without the cachet of its famous neighbours (Sancerre and others) would be more moderately priced, and thankfully that’s the case.

In the glass it shows a light lemon colour with green flecks, reflecting the variety and relatively young age. The nose has notes of freshly-mown grass, grapefuit, green pepper, lemon and lime.

The palate is initially tangy, though not sharp. The mid palate is delightful, with a mix of tangy green elements and an interlaced web of light tropical notes. Everything is woven together in a fine mesh, such that no single element stands out from the blend. It’s wrapped up by a precise, clean finish.

This is a great example of Loire Sauvignon, falling midway between entry level Touraines and premium Sancerres.

  • RRP: €15 down to €10 in the SuperValu French Wine Event (Thurs 4th Sept to Weds 24th Sept)
  • ABV: 12.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

André Goichot Chablis 2023

André Goichot Chablis bottle shot

André Goichot is a negociant business, buying grapes throughout Burgundy for their own label. This AOC Chablis is their bread and butter, and given the price rises in Bourgogne wines over the past half decade, it’s a great way to get into the area’s wine.

The colour of this Chablis is mid lemon, a tiny bit darker than the Alchimie, most probably just down to the difference in grape varieties (this is, of course, a Chardonnay). A good sniff reveals roundness but not plumpness; there’s a little melon and pear, and a whole range of apples. It’s like an orchard on the nose.

The palate is round again, but with a crisp finish. This is riper than some of the Chablis of yesteryear, but it’s still identifiably Chablis – “typique”, as the locals would say. Even with global warming, this northern outpost of Burgundy is on the leaner side.

  • RRP: €21 down to €15 in the SuperValu French Wine Event (Thurs 4th Sept to Weds 24th Sept)
  • ABV: 12.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Conclusion

In my opinion these two wines are of about the same quality and offer good value for money at their sale prices. I’d probably hesitate to buy the Chablis at it’s full price, but the Alchimie is a great little quaffer even at €15. At the offer price, I’d be emptying the shelves of the Alchimie!

 

 

 

 

 

Opinion

Wine Review: Whites from the 2023 SuperValu French Wine Sale

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The 2023 edition of the SuperValu French Wine Sale is upon us. As last year, some German wines are included, specifically those from producer Albert Glas. This post will cover five of the white wines which are among the 40 included in the sale which kicks off on Friday 1st September. They hail from the Loire Valley, Burgundy and the Pfalz.

Albert Glas Black Label Riesling 2022

Albert Glas Pfalz Black Label Riesling 2022 Bottle Shot

Weingut Albert Glas was founded in Essingen (in the Pzalf, around 30km north of Alsace) by Herr Albert Glass in 1958. It remains a small family winery run by Albert’s grandson Dominik. Dominik uses his grandfather’s traditional techniques wherever possible as they have proven effective for quality winemaking for several decades.

The Black Label indicates the firm’s top quality level. The grapes for this Riesling are hand picked from two westerly facing vineyards on loess and loam soils. An eight hour cold soak lets a few of the phenolics into the juice. Fermentation and maturation take place in a mix of stainless steel and barrels made from Pfalz oak.

Unistakeably Riesling on the nose, this radiates lime and floral notes. The palate is juicy and fruity, with citrus joined by yellow fruits. There’s plenty of texture, too. While this would be a versatile food wine, it’s damned delicious on its own.

  • ABV: 12.5 %
  • RS: 5.1 g/L
  • RRP: €12 down from €20
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

La Perrière Coteaux du Giennois 2022

Coteaux du Giennois is a lesser-known AOC from the Central Loire Valley. Whites are made from Sauvignon Blanc and reds from Pinot Noir and Gamay, and like other below-the-radar appellations the wines often represent good value for money. The trip from Gien to Saget La Perrière’s HQ in Poilly-sur-Loire takes around 45 minutes by car but double that in a truck; 90 minutes would be too long for grapes to be easily transported without spoiling so they are pressed at a facility close to the vineyard and the must travels down in a tanker.

The wine is pale in the glass, with striking varietal aromatics: white flowers, grass and gooseberry. The palate adds grapefruit to the mix and a good dose of acidity – it’s tangy and fresh. This is an easy drinking wine that would keep for a few years if necessary. Serve with a goat’s cheese salad or nibbles at apero time.

    • ABV: 13.5%
    • RRP: €12 down from €16.89
    • Source: sample
    • Stockists: SuperValu stores

La Perrière “Mégalithe” Sancerre 2017

La Perrière Sancerre Megalithe 2017 Bottle Shot

So now we have a wine from the most prestigious appellation in the Loire Valley, and one which is the original spiritual home of Sauvignon Blanc: Sancerre. But this is not just any Sancerre, it’s the flagship white wine from La Perrière. They have three levels of Sancerre; firstly the classic – in white, rosé and red – made with grapes from all three Sancerre terroirs. Above that are specific parcels from specific soil types, Silex (flint) and Caillottes (pebbles).

Mégalithe is made from the best grapes available from south-east facing sites on silex soil. All harvesting is by hand and pesticides and herbicides are kept to a minimum. After pressing, 40% of the juice is fermented in new 300 litre Allier oak barrels and 60% in stainless steel. Vinification lasts eight to ten months, with regular lees stirring, after which the wines are bottled and stored in La Perrière’s limestone caves for around two more years.

The aim is to make a concentrated, gastronomic wine that can easily age a decade. At the Prowein wine fair earlier this year the team showed Mégalithe 2003 which was still fighting fit, despite being from a very warm year. Production amounts to only 3,000 to 4,000 bottles per year.

So how is this mega wine? Right now this 2017 is à point. It pours lemon in the glass with perhaps a little more depth of colour that is associated with Sauvignon. The nose has citrus but also a touch of leesy funk and stony notes. It’s a real pleasure on the nose but the palate is where the action is really act. This is a tangy, generous and complex wine. It’s worth the normal €33 but at the offer price of €25 it’s worth trading up if you don’t normally spend this much.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €25 down from €32.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

André Goichot Saint-Bris 2022

André Goichot Saint Bris 2022 Bottle Shot

André Goichot entered the wine trade just after World War II. Something of an opportunist / entrepreneur, in a time when glass bottles were in very short supply, Monsieur Goichot collected empty wine bottles from wherever he could, then washed and refilled them. The firm has expanded and evolved over the decades, and in 2017 stopped buying wine in bulk and instead buying grapes and must. It has also bought its own vineyards, including 35 hectares in the Côte Chalonnaise in 2016.

A third Sauvignon Blanc, but this time from Burgundy. Wait, Burgundy? Yes, in the north of the region, close to Chablis, the village of Saint-Bris has long been a Sauvignon stronghold. In a similar situation to the Coteaux du Giennois above, the grapes for this wine are pressed in Saint-Bris and the must is transported by tanker for vinification in Beaune. 2022 saw both frost and hail in Burgundy, battering yields. Demand remains high, so everything is selling out quickly.

Whereas the Giennois is very green, this Saint-Bris adds some softer fruits to the mid palate. There’s some texture, too, after eight to ten months spent ageing on fine lees. There’s a light bitterness too, adding a savoury edge and keeping the fruit in check. For me this really needs food at this stage, though it might have softened up after another six months in bottle.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €10 down from €18
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

André Goichot Chablis 2021

André Goichot Chablis 2021 Bottle Shot

Chablis is such a distinctive style that it’s regularly showered with praise by those who aren’t even fans of “Chardonnay”. Most AOC Chablis is unoaked, with varying amounts of oak used for Premier and Grand Cru wines according to the tastes of the producer. This is the case here, with stainless steel used for fermentation and ageing. Bàtonnage was performed over seven months to add structure and texture.

The 2021 vintage was devastated by frost which hit in early April; up to 85% of production was lost, though the white grapes which did survive made some good wines. This bottle proves that wisdom. It has the usual Chablis characteristics of citrus and flintiness, but added to that is a restrained ripeness which can be lacking in the Yonne. Now, we’re still not talking about Meursault here, and the regulation bright acidity is present and correct, but riper orchard fruits add another layer. I’ve been lucky to taste Goichot Chablis many times over the years, and I think this is the best vintage I’ve tried.

  • ABV: 13.0 %
  • RRP: €16 down from €24.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Conclusion

There are no bad wines in this group, but there are clear winners: the Albert Glas Riesling at €12, the André Goichot Chablis at €16 and the Mégalithe at €25. I will be heading to my nearest SuperValu store to snag a few of each…and perhaps a few of the other Albert Glas wines which are also in the sale.

Make Mine A Double

Wine Review: Langlois L’Extra Crémant Rosé and Zull Lust & Laune Rosé

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Yes it’s August already, so why not enhance the summer vibe with some totally drinkable rosé?

Here is a pair from O’Briens’ August wine promotions – one sparkling and one still – that are worth popping open anytime, but especially when they are on offer:

Langlois L’Extra Crémant de Loire Rosé NV

Langlois L'Extra Crémant de Loire Rosé NV

Langlois are a well-established Saumur-based Loire producer who specialise in Crémants – they have six including this rosé – as well as reds and whites from Saumur and the surrounding appellations. They have been part of the Bollinger group since 1973 and their parent’s savoir-faire has undoubtedly helped to lift quality.

There are two classes in the Anglois Crémant range. The four traditional Crémants consist of up to four varieties: Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir, in either NV or vintage expressions. The L’Extra range has a white – which is outstanding – and this rosé.

The blend for this Crémant is 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Grolleau. The latter is a black grape primarily grown in the Loire and used for rosés – Anjou rosé and Crémant rosé – though seldomly seen on a front label. The grapes are pneumatically pressed immediately after destemming, giving 100 litres of juice from 150 kg of grapes. For this wine the free run juice (the cuvée) and some of the subsequent light pressings (the taille) are used. It spends a minimum of 12 months in bottle before disgorgement.

In the glass it is fully sparkling (the traditional method is used for all Crémants) and a pale salmon colour. The nose shows lots of fresh summer fruits, notably raspberry and strawberry. In the mouth it has a light and creany texture, with those summer fruits back again. It has a certain yeastiness, but not the full-on brioche experience of some Champagnes.

For me this rosé comes a narrow second to its white sibling, but there’s no shame in that as the Blanc is so excellent – I bought my wife a dozen for mother’s day this year. If you fancy a well-made pink fizz then there’s little to touch this at the price.

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €18.95 down from €21.45 until 31/08/22
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Zull NiederÖsterrreich Lust & Laune Rosé 2021

Zull Lust & Laune Rosé

Weingut Zull is a quality Austrian producer still in the hands of its founding family. It has four ranges within its portfolio, the majority of which carry the Weinwiertel DAC appellation. The introductory range includes three “Lust & Laune” wines which are designed to be fun and accessible. The white is 100% Grüner Veltliner, the red is a blend of Zweigelt and Pinot Noir, and this rosé is similar to the red but also has dashes of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The colour comes from 20% red wine being added to 80% clear juice – though I don’t have details of which varieties are used for the 20% – rather than the saignée method. Whichever they are, the result is a lovely glowing salmon pink. The nose features fresh, ripe red fruit aromas which jump out of the glass: strawberry, raspberry, loganberry, watermelon and fruit polos. This is a zingy, fun, fleshy, FRUITY wine, full of summer fruits but not at all flabby (residual sugar is only 4 g/L). You might even detect a hint of tannin on the finish, but it’s just a little seasoning. Wonderful stuff!

  • ABV: 12.0%
  • RRP: €11.96 down from €15.95 until 31/08/22
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

I loved both of these wines and would happily drink either again, but in terms of sheer pleasure the Zull wins the day.

 

**Click here to see more posts in the Make Mine a Double Series**

Wine Of The Week

Wine of the Week: Domaine Fournier Pouilly Fumé “Les Deux Cailloux”

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Domaine Fournier are a class outfit based in the Loire Valley’s two most renowned Sauvignon Blanc appellations, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. I really enjoyed their Sancerre Les Belles Vignes when I tried it a year or so ago. I recently tried the counterpart to that wine from the other side of the river:

Domaine Fournier Père et Fils Pouilly Fumé “Les Deux Cailloux” 2020

Fournier Pouilly Fumé Les Deux Cailloux 2020

For those who don’t speak French, “Les Deux Cailloux” just means “The Two Pebbles”, a reference to the stony soils of the area. This makes perfect sense for a river-based wine region!

The wine itself is lemony gold in the glass. It has an expressive nose with juicy, succulent gooseberry and grapefruit drawing you in. These notes follow through to the palate where they are joined by green pepper, smoke and minerality. It’s quite round and supple in the mid-palate – something which elevates it above the simpler wines of the Loire – though there’s no doubting the crisp Sauvignon finish.

This is a well-put-together, gastronomic wine. While it doesn’t offer anything particularly original and might seem similar in style to many other Loire Sauvignons, it is definitely a cut above most of them and well worth a try.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €29.95
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: Deveneys Dundrum; Saltwater Grocery; SC Grocer, Monkstown
Make Mine A Double

Wine Review: Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Rosé and Cabernet Franc

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Esteemed Loire producer Domaine Henri Bourgeois is most famous for its white and red Sancerres, but it also has some other interesting wines in its portfolio. I recently reviewed Clos Henri Petit Clos Sauvignon Blanc from its Marlborough outpost, and now it’s time to look at a young vine rosé and a Cabernet Franc.

Henri Bourgeois “Les Jeunes Vignes” Sancerre Pinot Noir Rosé 2020

Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Les Jeunes Vignes Rosé

Although I’m not a vocal exponent of rosé, if I had to choose a single variety as my favourite for rosé it would be Pinot Noir. Why? Easy, really: Pinot Noir tends to be on the lighter side as black grapes go, with soft tannins and good acidity, all of which make it the perfect candidate for rosé.

It’s more common to see a mention of Vieilles Vignes (VV) on a label rather than Jeunes Vignes as we have here. VV indicates that the vines are of a significant age (often 30+ years) so yields have started to fall but concentration in the finished wines increases. Jeunes Vignes tend to make simpler wines, and in some wine regions (e.g. Alsace or Bordeaux) the grapes from young vines tend to be declassified even if from a prestigious vineyard.

However, for areas which have a strong rosé game, why not use the grapes from young vines for rosé. Domaine Henri Bourgeois take this approach, as do the notable rosé producer Domaine Tempier of Bandol.

Although Pinot Noir is a lighter grape, this rosé has more colour than the fashionable paler-than-pale Provence style which is so fashionable at the moment. For me this is a GOOD THING as it signals that there has been more flavour as well as colour extracted from those precious Pinot Noir grapes. The nose showcases an array of red fruits – strawberry, raspberry, cherry and redcurrant. These red fruits are also the key notes on the palate, which has a dry and fresh but far from austere finish.

This is a lovely, balanced rosé that would be nice to sip in the sun or with a range of lighter dishes.

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP:  €24.95
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Cabernet Franc 2019

Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Cabernet FrancClimate change has had very mixed effects on viticulture in France. In some regions harvests are moving earlier and earlier over the years as grapes ripen earlier than before. Some regions face a future where new varieties will have to be employed as existing ones will struggle to make quality wine in a warmer climate.

There are others where global warming has helped to some extent; viz, the change in Alsace Pinot Noir from barely more than a rosé to a serious expression of the grape. Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley has been another beneficiary. No longer does it make dilute, green-pepper dominated reds in (frequent) colder years, and chapitalisation is now seldom required.

The Petit Bourgeois range is – as you might understand from the name – a junior range designed for easy drinking. Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are the other wines in the range. In the glass this Cab Franc is mid ruby, only medium intensity. The nose is fruity yet with some character. On the palate there is juicy fruit yet a savoury aspect at the same time. Alpine strawberries, cranberries, raspberries, redcurrants, and cherries are all in the mix. There’s a nice texture to this wine, with light, crunchy tannins and good acidity. Although varietally typical and nice to drink on its own, this wine really cries out for food…a plate of charcuterie would be perfect!

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP:  €16.95
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

**Click here to see more posts in the Make Mine a Double Series**

Single Bottle Review

Wine Review: Clos Henri “Petit Clos” Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

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Which makes better Sauvignon Blanc, the Loire Valley or Marlborough?

The Loire versus Marlborough debate about which region makes the best Sauvignon Blanc will rumble on for years to come, with each side proclaiming victory. The Loirists can point to the fact that they have the original home of Sauvignon Blanc and the famous duo (amongst others) of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Marlboroughites may boast that very few people even knew what Sauvignon Blanc was before they started making it a world famous variety, and no other region can rival their Savvy’s aromatics.

Domaine Henri Bourgeois and Clos Henri

On the sidelines we have Sancerre based producer Domaine Henri Bourgeois, now in the capable hands of the tenth generation of winemakers, who has ventured down to Aotearoa to establish their own take on Marlborough Sauvignon, Clos Henri. It was set up in Marlborough’s most popular subregion, Wairau Valley, which has greywacke (whence Kevin Judd’s outfit takes its name) soil, essentially gravels and pebbles laid down over millennia by the wandering Wairau river. Viticulture is practising, but not certified, organic

Clos Henri has six wines, three whites (Sauvignon Blanc) and three reds (Pinot Noir) with three labels each:

  • Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc: 8 – 13 year old vines on greywacke
  • Bel Echo Sauvignon Blanc: 9 – 13 year old vines on clay
  • Petit Clos Sauvignon Blanc: 3 – 7 year old vines on greywacke and clay
  • Clos Henri Pinot Noir: 8 – 13 year old vines on clay
  • Bel Echo Pinot Noir: 8 – 13 year old vines on greywacke
  • Petit Clos Pinot Noir: 3 – 7 year old vines on clay and greywacke

Note how greywacke is the optimum soil for Sauvignon and clay for Pinot.

Clos Henri “Petit Clos” Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Clos Henri Petit Clos Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

As you can ascertain from the information above, Petit Clos Sauvignon Blanc is made using young vines predominantly grown on greywacke soil. Following Sancerre practices, vines are planted close together to make them compete for nutrients and encourage them to focus their energy on producing fruit more than foliage. Clos Henri is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks to best preserve aromatics, but it also enjoys three months of bâtonnage which both helps preserve the wine and gives it a creamy, rounded texture.

The noses shows grassy aromas (harking back to Sancerre again), plus citrus notes such as lime and grapefruit. These continue onto the palate where they are joined by some lighter tropical notes – pineapple and passionfruit. This wine has a dry finish and excellent length. It is far more elegant than the vast majority of Marlborough Sauvignons, and that’s where the Bourgeois family’s Loire expertise comes into play – it really is the best of both worlds.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €19.95 or €13.95 when on offer
  • Source: purchased from O’Briens Glasnevin
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores or obrienswine.ie

 

 

 

 

Opinion

Wine Review: Sauvignon Blancs from SuperValu

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What’s the best inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc from SuperValu?  Here are four Sauvignons from the current SuperValu sale, from four different countries: France, Australia, Chile and Argentina.

La Petite Perrière Sauvignon Blanc 2019: The minerally one

La Petite Perrière Sauvignon Blanc

It’s rather fitting that the producer of this wine is named after a stone quarry in Sancerre as it has a wonderful mineral streak through its core.  Yes there are plenty of citrus notes too – lemon, lime and grapefruit – but they are along for the journey rather than being the destination themselves.  This is a fresh style of Sauvignon Blanc that has more than a passing resemblance to a dry Alsace Riesling, which is obviously a positive in my book!

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €11.99 down to €9.00 until 19th May 2021
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie
  • Source: media sample

19 Crimes Sauv Block 2020: The soft one

19 Crimes Sauv Block

“Sauv Block” is some sort of pun on Prison Block / Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s fairly weak (yes, this is  me saying this!)  I’ve already covered the 19 Crimes Red Wine and its unusual packaging, so this time we will just consider the wine inside.  It has some of the typical grapefruit and gooseberry notes on the nose but there are also more soft and tropical fruit aromas.  The palate reflects this, with melon and pineapple alongside the green fruits.

The 19 Crimes SB doesn’t have the zing and freshness of a typical SB.  I haven’t tasted enough Aussie single varietal Sauvignons to compare it to, but this wine seems almost like it’s made with a different grape variety – something like Godello – though I’m sure it’s not.  In short, this is a Sauvignon Blanc for people who don’t normally go for this variety as they find it too sharp – but there’s nothing wrong with that!  Well chilled it is fine for sipping in the sun.

  • ABV: 12.0%
  • RRP: €14.99 down to €10.00
  • Stockists: SuperValu and supervalu.ie
  • Source: media sample

Cepas Privadas Sauvignon Blanc 2019: The herby one

Cepas Privadas Sauvignon Blanc

Most wine drinkers will be familiar with Argentina’s signature black grape Malbec and the largest wine region in the country, Mendoza.  As Mendoza is principally a warm wine region it may surprise some to learn that it has cooler parts, cool enough to be suitable for Sauvignon Blanc.

The nose is initially all about green pepper and herbs, with touches of green fruits in the background.  The palate is fresh and zippy, with a core of minerality around which citrus and herbs are wrapped.  I don’t think this wine lives up to the normal RRP of €18, but for €8 it represents very good value.

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €17.99 down to €8.00 until 19th May 2021
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie
  • Source: media sample

Aresti Estate Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2020: The grapefruity one

Aresti Estate Selection Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc is one of the key varieties for Chile, especially in Ireland where it is available in pretty much every supermarket, convenience store and off-licence.  Hailing from Curicó Valley, Aresti are a family business with several ranges within their portfolio; Estate Selection appears to be their entry level for the Irish market.

It ticks all the boxes you’d expect from an inexpensive SB, but it’s key attribute is drinkability.  It’s not going to challenge Sancerre or Marlborough but it’s a very pleasant drop for mid week or even the weekend.

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €10.99 down to €8.00 until 19th May 2021
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie
  • Source: media sample

Conclusion

These are obviously inexpensive wines which are for everyday drinking rather than a special treat.  The 19 Crimes is noticeably different in style, but has its place.  The other three are quite similar and very reasonable wines for sipping outside on a warm summer’s day (if we see one this year in Ireland!) – it comes down to small differences in flavours, aromas and drinkability.  On that basis, my narrow favourite is the best all-rounded, the Aresti Estate Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2020.

Tasting Events

Whites From Off The Beaten Track [GrapeCircus 2020 Round 2]

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After the Champagnes of Laherte Frères in Part 1, we now turn to a trio of unusual whites.  They aren’t that obscure, but they aren’t going to appear in your local supermarket.  They are all made by small, family owned producers who prefer to do work in the vineyard rather than the winery.  Note: I tasted these wines back in February this year so some outlets may well have moved onto the 2019 vintages of the respective wines.

M & A Arndorfer Gemischter Satz Weiss 2018

Martin and Anna Arndorfer are part of the new generation in Austria, acknowledging their respective families’ deep ties to their region of Kamptal but breaking free and setting down their own roots.  Their approach might be described as “hands-off”, but that would belittle the work they do in the vineyard, fully respectful of nature’s gifts.

This is the first time I have reviewed the M & A Arndorfer Gemischter Satz (field blend), though I have previously reviewed their single varietal 2015 Grüner Veltliner  and their 2016 Vorgeschmack white.  As the latter is no longer available and consisted of the same blend (80% Grüner Veltliner & 20% Riesling) as this wine I believe it is simply a matter of renaming.

Those familiar with the component varieties – hopefully a decent majority of you – should be able to imagine its style; decent body with lots of spice and pip fruit, but a racy finish.  Apples and pears meet lemon and lime?  What’s not to like?

Burja “Petit Burja” Zelen 2018

When faced with this label most wine drinkers would be forgiven for thinking “what even is that?”  (Confession: I thought exactly that!)  So: “Burja” is the name of the estate, “Zelen” is the name of the grape and “Petit Burja” is the name of the bottling.  Burja is run by Primož Lavrenčič who named it after the Mistral-like wind which can blow through the vines.  Zelen is a local grape variety named after the Slovenian word for ‘green’ which is the colour that it apparently takes on when fermenting.  The estate is run on both organic and biodynamic lines.

So how does this unusual grape taste?  It doesn’t taste exactly like anything else, but in a word, great!  It’s highly aromatic, with floral and citrus notes to the fore.  These continue onto the palate which is juicy and tangy, but also mineral and linear.  This wine could be the jolt that your palate needs!

Domaine de Montcy Cheverny Blanc 2018

I have reviewed the red wine from this stable before; Domaine de Montcy Cheverny Rouge was the Frankly Wines #2 Value Red of 2017.  The Domaine has been run by Italian Laura Semeria for 13 years; she has woven the new (converting viticulture to organic and then biodynamic) with the old (maintaining local varieties including the rare Romorantin).  The vines cover a surface area of 20 hectares and vary in age up to 80 years old.

Just as the Arndorfer wine above, this is an 80/20 blend, but this time 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Chardonnay (yes, Chardonnay is grown in the Loire!)  This blend is rarely seen in France, nor even Australia or New Zealand, but does occur in northern Italy.  Although unusual, the blend is seamless, showing floral, herby and citrus notes.  It’s a light yet thrilling, real wine.

GrapeCircus 2020:

Opinion

Super Value Xmas Wines 2020 part 1

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I’m a big fan of the smaller wine importers and distributors in Ireland and the independent wine shops where many of their wines are sold.  Neither of these roles is easy or that well paid, but require a passion for wine.  The other part of wine retail is the supermarkets and multiples who have higher quantities but lower priced offerings.  The challenges here – especially in supermarkets – are very different.  Wines have to be very commercial – which I use in a factual and not derogatory sense – as wines have to mainstream and meet customers’ expectations rather than being quirky or unusual.  They often have to have attractive packaging and offer very good value for money – there’s no hand-selling like in an indie – and they have to sell.

The Irish supermarket that strikes the best balance for me is SuperValu and its head of wine Kevin O’Callaghan.  I write about their wines frequently for two main reasons:

  1. I taste a lot of their wines (which are usually samples, and are disclosed as such)
  2. Their wines nearly always offer great value for money, especially when on promotion

And, just as for all retails and importers who send me samples, if I don’t like a wine I just don’t mention it.

In addition to the noted price reductions SuperValu also offer €10 off any six bottles from Thursday 26th November to Wednesday 9th December.  Below I review some of the “Classic Christmas Wines” that Kevin has selected for their Xmas promotion.

Disclosure: all bottles were kindly sent as samples, but opinions remain my own

André Goichot Chablis 2018

I reviewed this vintage back in September of this year and liked it; if you like Chablis or clean, dry but fruity whites, then this citrus and green appled wine is definitely worth a try.  Great for seafood or as an aperitif.

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €19.66 down to €15.00 from 26th Nov to 30th Dec
  • Stockists: SuperValu Ireland stores and supervalu.ie

Guy Saget Sancerre 2018 

I also reviewed this wine in September, but I think it’s showing even better with a few more months.  The mid-palate has some particularly tasty tropical notes, along with gooseberry and just a little grassiness.  At the regular price of just under €20 this Sancerre is very good, but at €15 it is a real bargain.  Just don’t drink it too cold!

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €19.66 down to €15.00 from 26th Nov to 30th Dec while stocks last
  • Stockists: SuperValu Ireland stores and supervalu.ie

André Goichot Fleurie 2018

Another wine from the Goichot stable, but this time a Cru Beaujolais.  Fleurie is one of the lighter Crus, and it shows in this wine which is quite pale in the glass – I could read print through a tasting sample.  The nose has both fresh and tinned strawberries, with a touch of black cherry reminding me of Ski yoghurts in an ’80s flashback.  The strawberries are also prominent on the palate, but with a hint of spice in the background.  There’s a nice texture and fresh acidity to this wine which make it very quaffable.  This isn’t the best Fleurie I’ve ever tried but at €12 on offer it’s a great mid-week quaffer to have on the wine rack, or with cold cuts over Xmas.

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €14.66 down to €12.00 from 26th Nov to 30th Dec
  • Stockists: SuperValu Ireland stores and supervalu.ie

Rémy Ferbras Vacqueyras 2018

Vacqueyras, for those who don’t know it, is a southern Rhône Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre (GSM) blend which offers a bold fruity red wine in the vein of Châteauneuf du Pape but at a lower price.  Grenache gives easy drinking red fruits, Syrah gives pepper, spice and more savoury notes while Mourvèdre gives grip, perfume and meaty aspects.  The precise ratio between the three components depends on what style the winemaker is looking to achieve.

The nose on this wine is all about the fruit; blueberry, wild strawberry and tinned strawberry.  These notes continue through onto the palate where black fruits and herbs also appear.  The finish is quite dry which made me think there there’s a good proportion of Syrah and Mourvèdre in the blend; subsequent investigation revealed there to be 20% and 10% respectively which fits my observations.

This is a reasonable effort.  I don’t think I’d buy it at full price but the significant reduction puts it into the “worth a try” category.

  • ABV: 14.0%
  • RRP: €20.65 down to €14.00 from 26th Nov to 30th Dec while stocks last
  • Stockists: SuperValu Ireland stores or supervalu.ie

Vivaldi Ripasso 2018

The Ripasso style is a half way house between normal Valpolicella and Amarone, made by pumping Valpolicella wine into a tank which was used for fermenting Amarone, after that wine has been pumped out leaving the gross lees (mainly grape skins) behind which still have some fermentable sugars left.  The end wine has a little more alcohol and (usually) a little more residual sugar than the plain Valpolicella.

This example from Vivaldi is made from three classic local grapes: Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella.  For real wine geeks (such as myself) it is interesting that the initial fermentation was at 25°C – 28°C whereas the subsequent fermentation was carried out at just 15°C.  Maturation was in wood before bottling.

That last sentence is important; for me the (unspecified) wood had an important influence on the wine, adding creamy vanilla and toasty notes to the bright cherry fruits from the grapes.  Residual sugar is 8.5 g/L which is mainly perceived as extra body and roundness rather than sugariness.  It’s the velvety texture which will appeal to most about this wine, though the downside is not quite as much freshness as I’d like myself.  It’s definitely worth a try at the normal price of €15.65 but it’s an absolute steal at 6 for €40!

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €15.65 or case deal of 6 for €40.00 from 17th to 20th Dec while stocks last
  • Stockists: SuperValu Ireland stores