The New Zealand wine industry is in rude health. It is still a minnow compared to many other countries, even its close neighbour Australia, but the commitment to quality is unmatched. A few years ago there was a small dip as large amounts of dilute Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from excess production were offloaded cheaply though UK supermarkets. That imbalance seems to have been corrected and hopefully we have seen the last of that swill.
Last month I attended the Annual New Zealand Trade Tasting in Dublin (with thanks to Jean Smullen for the invitation!) including the Sauvignon Blanc masterclass. I got to taste virtually all the wines there, though of course there were lots of wineries not represented. This post (and part 2, to come) reflect my views on the wines I particularly liked, or at least found interesting.
A brief recap as to the wine regions of New Zealand (with the major ones in bold):
- Wairapa & Canterbury
- Martinborough & Wairarapa
- Central Otago
- Marlborough
- Nelson
- Hawke’s Bay
- Waitaki
- Auckland, Matakana, Waiheke & Kumeu
- Gisborne
- Northland
- Waikato & Bay Of Plenty
Sauvignon Blanc Masterclass
I got a spot on the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc Masterclass, given by Matt Thomson (Saint Clair), Jamie Marfell (Brancott Estate) and the “godfather of Marlborough Sauvignon”, Kevin Judd (with Cloudy Bay for maaany years and now running his own label Greywacke). Not only did we get a tutored tasting of eight different wines, but there was also lots of interesting information: SB accounts for ~66% of wine production in NZ but ~84% of exports; therefore the the High Commissioner of New Zealand to the UK was probably right that the UK doesn’t get the best NZ Chardonnays see article.
Although the first Sauvignon vines were planted in 1973, the vast majority of current vines were planted in the last decade or so; not only is this due to expansion in the area under vine, Phylloxera hit Marlborough in 1990 so existing vines had to be pulled up and new vines plants (presumably on American rootstocks). Vintage does matter in New Zealand due to the marginal climate – even for whites. It was so cold in 2012 that the grapes were nowhere near ready around the normal harvest time, so winegrowers just had to wait and wait. As Marlborough is dry and windy there is little risk of botrytis. 2012 wines often have green gooseberry flavours rather than the more common tropical and passionfruit characteristics.
In Hawke’s Bay (and to a less extent Wairarapa and Nelson), SB is picked earlier to maintain acidity; hence, flavour is usually less intense than in Marlborough. In particular the cool nights in Marlborough mean the growing season is a long one, and thus more flavour and sugar develops while the acidity slowly drops. As the wines are fermented until technically dry (< 3g RS) they tend to have slightly higher alcohol than other regions. The vast majority of SB is machine harvested so that it can be picked very quickly and at night when temperatures are low (sometimes as cool as 5C). Winemakers are continuously experimenting with the techniques used for the standard, well-recognised style of Sauvignon and are also making alternative styles (see below).
Selected Wine Highlights
I’ve grouped some of the wines I liked best (or found most interesting) by grape rather than producer or importer.
Sauvignon Blanc (An asterix * indicates the wine was part of the Masterclass)
Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2013*
The majority of the fruit comes from the Southern Valleys, a different microclimate from the Wairau “Plains”. Kevin likes to have a fairly open canopy so that sunlight gets to the grapes. 90% fermented in stainless steel with cultured yeast, 10% fermented in old oak barrels with wild yeast. Smooth and balanced.
Greywacke Wild Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2012
Partially hand picked, and fermented in (mainly) old French oak barrels with naturally occurring yeast. Occasional batonnage and two thirds go through MLF for softness (this is usually avoided for regular Sauvignons) and additional maturation on the lees for creaminess and complexity. Note the current release is usually a year later than the standard Sauvignon.
Saint Clair Pioneer Block 18 Snap Block Sauvignon Blanc, Wairau Valley, Marlborough 2012*
This was one of the most successful 2012s shown at the tasting. Sourced from a single vineyard, it was pressed quickly in small presses and 100% fermented and matured in stainless steel. Just lovely.
Hunter’s Kaho Roa Wairau Valley, Marlborough 2012*
OK, this is where it gets complicated: 25% was fermented in new French oak barrels, 75% fermented in stainless steel. Of the latter, half (37.5%) was transferred into barrel for maturation and the remainder was left in stainless steel. Nice and round in the mouth with subtle oak/vanilla notes. Tohu Mugwi Reserve Awatere Valley, Marlborough 2012* The most subtle of the alternative style Sauvignons. Being from the cooler Awatere Valley it has pronounced minerality. 80% goes through MLF to soften it out, but it remains so zesty that if I was told there was 10% Riesling in the blend I would have believed it.
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2013
The original premium Sauvignon that created such a buzz about Marlborough is still a fine drop, though it has plenty of competition nowadays. The 2013 is smooth in the mouth and has mouth-watering acidity without being sharp.
Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Possibly the most alternative of all the alternative Sauvignon offerings. The grape variety isn’t even mentioned on the front label so that consumers don’t pick it up thinking it’s a regular style. Another winemaker mentioned that their oaked Sauvignon “doesn’t think it’s a Chardonnay” – which could reasonably be levelled at Te Koko – but I love it!
Villa Maria Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Clifford Bay 2012
This is one of my personal favourites (it was the white wine served at my wedding), it really punches above its price point. The 2012 is turning slightly vegetal with asparagus notes but remains delicious. I’d be very interested to try the latest vintage as a comparison.
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is really coming on in New Zealand, especially as vines attain ten years of age or more. For a detailed review check out Jamie Goode’s New Zealand Pinot Noir e-book. Martinborough has been the pioneer of excellent Pinot in New Zealand, and some of the older vineyards are producing lovely wines. Central Otago makes a very different style of Pinot – although the temperature can be very low at night, the region gets lots of sunshine so the grapes get thicker skins and high potential alcohol, adding to the colour and body. Marlborough Pinot is also on the up as vines are now planted on more appropriate sites, rather than just where convenient or next to Sauvignon vines.
Matua Lands & Legends Pinot Noir Central Otago 2012
This is real Central Pinot, darker in colour and bigger in the mouth than Marlborough Pinot Noir; not as subtle but a very enjoyable wine – a Pinot Noir for winter.
Delta Hatters Hill Pinot Noir Marlborough 2009
A step up from the regular Pinot, this is grown on the slope of a hill (hence the name!) rather than in the valley.
Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough 2012
On top form with this vintage, fabulously perfumed red fruit on the nose.
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir Martinborough 2011
The Daddy! One of New Zealand’s top Pinot Noirs, powerful but silky smooth. My favourite Pinot of the tasting. For a less expensive taste try Ata Rangi’s Crimson, made from younger vines and so not quite as intense.
Te Pā Pinot Noir Marlborough 2011
A relative newcomer, made in a minimal-intervention way, and sulphur only added just before bottling. Grapes are sourced from the Wairau and Awatere Valleys. Matured for 10 months in large new French barrels. Pinot Noir can often taste of tinned strawberries and raspberries, but this tasted of fresh fruit – just so alive.
Te Pā Rosé Marlborough 2013
After seven days of soaking the crushed grapes, 20% is bled off as a rosé. This is just delicious – who needs insipid, off-dry rosés when they can drink a real wine? A secondary effect of making this is of course to concentrate the colour and flavour of the juice that’s left – the full-blown 2013 Pinot Noir will be something to look forward to!
Chardonnay
Although it will never be loved by some, I believe Chardonnay is New Zealand’s best variety; some fine examples are grown in every wine region of significance, from Kumeu and Waiheke near Auckland down to Central Otago. Kiwi Chardie is often oaked, with a medium to high toast on the barrel, but even the more tropical versions possess a mineral streak and plenty of acidity which make them interesting and fresh.
Ata Rangi Craighall Chardonnay Martinborough 2011
Recently compared by Anthony Rose in the UK Independent to a Meursault, this is made from 28 year old Mendoza clones (look out for a forthcoming post on clones) which gives a forward, ripe and buttery flavour. This could be kept for up to two decades – who says New World whites don’t age?
Cloudy Bay Chardonnay Marlborough 2012
For me this has long been the best wine produced by Cloudy Bay, especially in the periods when the quality of the Sauvignon has wavered slightly. For a Euro or two more it offers far more complexity and will develop nicely over several years.
Man O’War Valhalla Chardonnay Waiheke 2011
Being so far north, and therefore closer to the equator, gives added intensity to the tropical fruit; being on an island helps produce refreshing acidity at harvest. Alcoholic fermentation is with wild yeast and malolactic fermentation is blocked.
Greywacke Chardonnay Marlborough 2011
My tasting note for this wine was unprintable – it’s that good!
Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay 2011
Relatively restrained compared to some of the other Chardies mentioned here; poured by the son of winemaker John Hancock.
Tohu Chardonnay Rapaura Marlborough 2013
If I had tasted this blind then New Zealand would have been way down the list of countries I’d have guessed at. Fermentation and maturation in neutral stainless steel means there is no oak influence. It goes through full malolactic fermentation and then batonnage (lees stiring) twice weekly for six weeks, adding complexity and body. If you like really good 1er Cru Chablis, give this a go!
