I don’t know if its use is common outside the UK and Ireland, but the phrase “that’s the dog’s bollocks” is for some reason very high praise – as opposed to “that’s bollocks” which means that something is nonsense or useless. So, when doing a bit of research into the Bocksbeutel of Franconia (Franken) I found that one of the purported origins of the name is due to the bottle’s resemblance to a ram’s scrotum (read more here) – who’d have thought it? The bottle shape is protected under EU regulations, though is probably better known in these parts for Portuguese rosé.
Anyway, onto the wines – a pair of aromatic whites from Horst Sauer
disclosure: samples were kindly provided for review, opinions are my own
Horst Sauer Esherndorfer Lump Riesling Trocken 2016 (12.0%, RRP €23.60 at Karwig Wines, Carrigaline and karwigwines.ie)
Even though Franken is better known for its Silvaner (it’s the best region in Germany for Silvaner) of course there’s great Riesling grown here as well. Classed as a Trocken, this is definitely dry, though far from austere – I’m pretty sure there are a few grams of residual sugar balancing the fresh acidity. There’s plenty of ripe fruit and minerality; it’s a well balanced and delicious wine with all its elements in perfect tension.
Horst Sauer Esherndorfer Silvaner Trocken 2016 (11.5%, RRP €20.90 at Karwig Wines, Carrigaline and karwigwines.ie)
So here we have Silvaner (with an “i”) rather than Sylvaner (with a “y”) as in Alsace, but it’s just the same grape. I have previously described the grape as having characteristics in between Pinot Blanc and Riesling, but the additional minerality of this Horst Sauer Silvaner also brought to mind some aspects of Burgundy’s white grapes:
Of course this is my personal interpretation but I’d be interested to hear other people’s take. It’s a fairly subtle wine but it really grows on you. With clean, fresh notes it makes a great aperitif or as a match for salads, fish and shellfish.
So which is the better wine? I really enjoyed both, but, although the Silvaner is one of the best I’ve tried, I narrowly preferred the extra intensity of the Riesling. Try them both and see which you prefer!
Inspired by a comment from Mr Richie Magnier of The Motley Cru, here are 10 wines / grapes / regions / producers with some connection – however tenuous – to the name FRANKIE! If this seems somewhat vain, well maybe it is, but hopefully also a bit of fun…
1. Cabernet Franc (Loire & Bordeaux)
So we kick off with one of the classiest Francs around, a stalwart black grape of Loire and Bordeaux that’s also becoming quite trendy in Argentina.
In Bordeaux it’s a useful blending component on both Left and Right banks, especially as it ripens before its offspring Cabernet Sauvignon. In fact, in Bourg, Saint-Emilion and Pomerol it’s not usual for “Cabernets” plural to indicate a mix of the two without giving their relative proportions.
In the Loire Cab Franc is important in Saumur, Chinon, Anjou and Bourgueil. It’s often a single varietal here, whether as a red or a rosé such as Cabernet d’Anjou.
2. Blaufränkisch / Kékfrankos
In case you weren’t aware, these two names are the same grape in different languages – German and Hungarian respectively. The origin stems from the colour – blue – and the supposed more noble Frankish(well I’m hardly going to disagree with that!) origins of Charlemagne’s Franks.
Blaufränkisch is grown across central Europe including Austria, the Czech Republic and many parts of former Yugoslavia, with just a few brave pioneers trying it in Adelaide Hills and Washington State.
3. Frank Phélan
Château Phélan Ségur of Saint-Estèphe in the Médoc was founded by Irishman Bernard Phelan who acquired and joined two existing estates in the early 1800s. On his death the Château passed to his son Frank who spent a total of thirty years as the Mayor of the town.
The second wine of Phélan Ségur is named after Frank, and is both cheaper and more approachable than the Grand Vin. It often receives accolades for quality v price (well this is Bordeaux) and its big and bold fruit shouldn’t be a surprise when you find out that Michel Rolland is the consulting oenologist here.
What? Who? Where? According to St Jancis of Robinson this is apparently a white Hungarian wine grape grown primarily in the Mór region which is mainly used for dessert wines. And?? In the listings of the Vitis International Variety Catalogue (essential reading, I’m sure you’ll agree) Ezerjó is also known by the synonyms Biella, Budai Feher, Budicsin, Budicsina, Cirfondli, Ezer Jo, Feher Bakator, Feher Budai, Feher Sajgo, Feher Szagos, Frank, Kerekes, Kolmreifer, Kolmreifler, Konreifler, Korpavai, Korponai, Korponoi, Matyok, Predobre, Refosco, Refosco Weiss, Romandi, Satoki, Scheinkern, Scheinkernweiss, Shaikern, Staloci, Szadocsina, Szadoki, Szatoki, Szatoky, Tausendfachgute, Tausendgerte, Tausendgut, Tausendgute, and Trummertraube.
Wake up, you missed it! I put it in boldand you fell asleep! Shame on you!
5. Dr Frank Wine Cellars (Finger Lakes)
Dr Konstantin Frank emigrated to New York State from the Ukraine in 1951. After years of research he became convinced that Vitis Vinifera (proper vines) could flourish in the cool climate of upstate New York if they were grafted onto the right rootstock.
He founded Vinifera Wine Cellars in 1962 and his Rieslings soon became successful. The company is now run by the third generation with the fourth in training! Rumours that Dr Frank used to gig with Dr John could not be confirmed.
Known as Franken in German or Franconia in English, this is one of Germany’s quality wine regions, and is the only wine region within Bavaria (I understand they make beer there as well).
The wines made are nearly always single varietals rather than blends and tend to be dry – even more dry than they have to be under German labelling laws.
The tasty-but-unfashionable Sylvaner is reputed to hit its heights here, though there is still more of the workhorse Müller-Thurgau at the moment.
Franconian wines are often easy to spot by their round, flattened flask shaped bottle known as a Bocksbeutel.
7. Frank Family Vineyards
In the heart of Napa Valley is the winery belonging to former Disney big cheese Rich Frank (I presume short for Richard, or perhaps he is just very wealthy).
Established as the Larkmead Winery in 1884, the building is now on the National Register of Historical Places and is listed as a Point of Historical Interest in the state of California. Wines made here include the usual Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Petite Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon but also Sangiovese.
8. Bleasdale Frank Potts
Bleasdale winery was founded in 1850 by English-born Frank Potts in Langhorne Creek, South Australia. The firm remains in family hands – now onto the 6th generation – and so their flagship Cabernet blend is named after the founder.
This wine actually ticks five out of the six permitted black varieties in Bordeaux – Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Bravo, Frank!
9. Francis Ford Coppola Winery
When The Godfather was a critical and financial success for director Francis Ford Coppola he splashed out on a winery in Sonoma County, and quietly made wines there without ever referring to his film career.
Okay that last bit is a lie! Among the many levels of Mr Coppola’s portfolio you can find both the Director’s and Director’s Cut ranges – including the limited release “Cinema” blend – alongside the quotation: “Winemaking and filmmaking are two great art forms” stated by….Francis Ford Coppola of course!
No, this isn’t my blog, it’s another Frankly Wines – it’s a wine shop in New York City run by Christy Frank, previously of LVMH’s US operation (which is where Kevin Judd (of Greywacke and formerly Cloudy Bay) knows her from – and he once thought my Frankly Wines t-shirt referred to her shop!). Ok, no more brackets.