Tag: Austrian Wine

Retail Promotion Events

Three German and Austrian wines from O’Briens

admin

Now it might seem a little disrespectful to both countries’ great wine-making traditions, but there is some continuity between the two in terms of grape varieties and wine styles. There are differences, too, and those are what add to the world’s delicious vinous tapestry.

Here is a fine trio of white wines in tall, fluted bottles that I tried at the O’Briens press tasting:

Lingenfelder Bird Label Pfalz Riesling 2023

Lingenfelder Bird Label Riesling bottle shot

Although Alsace-nerds know about the Franco-German border moving several times to bring Alsace within each country, it’s lesser known that the Pfalz was annexed by France for a time under Napoleon. The Lingenfelder family have grown grapes in the Pfalz for centuries before Napoleon’s time, and centuries since, reaching thirteen generations with current winemaker Rainer Karl Lingenfelder. Their wines are divided into two distinct ranges. Estate wines focus on the main four varieties grown on Lingenfelder’s own vineyards, being Riesling and Scheurebe whites plus Dornfelder and Pinot Noir reds. The Creature range consists of six approachable varietal wines, each named after a local wild animal.

And this little Birdie is 100% Riesling, made in a rich and juicy style. It’s highly aromatic, with tropical and mouth-wateringly fresh and juicy peach, pear and red apple. There’s a little residual sugar here too, but that balances the acidity and the finish is still nice and crisp. This is a delicious wine and a real crowd-pleaser.

ABV: 10.5%
RRP: €14.99 down from €17.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Rabl Grüner Veltliner Löss 2024

Rabl Grüner Veltliner Löss bottle shot

Weingut Rabl also have a storied history behind them, dating back to 1750. The family farms around a hundred hectares around the town of Langenlois in the region of Kamptal, with a focus on sustainability. In the hands of Rudolf Rabl Jr they have received recognition for both the quality of their wines and their commitment to sustainability.

This bottle – with its pair of umlauts – represents an example of both Austria’s signature grape and a typical soil type. Löss (or Loess in English) is a mixture of sand and silt and a small proportion of clay, usually formed by winds over millennia. It is very fertile and can produce wines on the richer side.

Due to Grüner’s moderate acidity this is a gentle wine, mineral yet fruity; grapefruit and gooseberry along with yellow plum, framed by a mineral edge. An excellent introduction to the grape for those who haven’t tried it before.

ABV: 12.0%
RRP: €15.99 down from €19.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken 2022

Robert Weil Riesling Trocken bottle shot

Back to Germany again, this time in the more northerly region of the Rheingau. Riesling is the king here, with three quarters of all plantings being that noble variety. Weingut Robert Weil has taken this even further, with all of their vineyards being planted to Riesling. Their lands amount around a hundred hectares around the family winery, all farmed sustainably.

On the nose this couldn’t be anything other than Riesling, intense fresh lime infused with herbs. It’s intense enough to clear your sinuses!

Although this wine is labelled as “Trocken”, or “Dry” in English, it has such juicy fruit that it tastes just a smidgen off-dry. It’s fresher than a mountain top, with all manner of citrus and crisp orchard fruits. This isn’t an introduction to Riesling, it is Riesling!

ABV: 12.0%
RRP: €25.99 down from €30.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

These three wines are all great, but quite different in character. If I was opening a bottle for casual wine drinkers, I’d plump for the bird, but for wine enthusiasts it would have to be the Robert Weil; even though it’s more expensive it represents excellent value for money.

Make Mine A Double

Wine Review: Langlois L’Extra Crémant Rosé and Zull Lust & Laune Rosé

admin

Yes it’s August already, so why not enhance the summer vibe with some totally drinkable rosé?

Here is a pair from O’Briens’ August wine promotions – one sparkling and one still – that are worth popping open anytime, but especially when they are on offer:

Langlois L’Extra Crémant de Loire Rosé NV

Langlois L'Extra Crémant de Loire Rosé NV

Langlois are a well-established Saumur-based Loire producer who specialise in Crémants – they have six including this rosé – as well as reds and whites from Saumur and the surrounding appellations. They have been part of the Bollinger group since 1973 and their parent’s savoir-faire has undoubtedly helped to lift quality.

There are two classes in the Anglois Crémant range. The four traditional Crémants consist of up to four varieties: Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir, in either NV or vintage expressions. The L’Extra range has a white – which is outstanding – and this rosé.

The blend for this Crémant is 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Grolleau. The latter is a black grape primarily grown in the Loire and used for rosés – Anjou rosé and Crémant rosé – though seldomly seen on a front label. The grapes are pneumatically pressed immediately after destemming, giving 100 litres of juice from 150 kg of grapes. For this wine the free run juice (the cuvée) and some of the subsequent light pressings (the taille) are used. It spends a minimum of 12 months in bottle before disgorgement.

In the glass it is fully sparkling (the traditional method is used for all Crémants) and a pale salmon colour. The nose shows lots of fresh summer fruits, notably raspberry and strawberry. In the mouth it has a light and creany texture, with those summer fruits back again. It has a certain yeastiness, but not the full-on brioche experience of some Champagnes.

For me this rosé comes a narrow second to its white sibling, but there’s no shame in that as the Blanc is so excellent – I bought my wife a dozen for mother’s day this year. If you fancy a well-made pink fizz then there’s little to touch this at the price.

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €18.95 down from €21.45 until 31/08/22
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Zull NiederÖsterrreich Lust & Laune Rosé 2021

Zull Lust & Laune Rosé

Weingut Zull is a quality Austrian producer still in the hands of its founding family. It has four ranges within its portfolio, the majority of which carry the Weinwiertel DAC appellation. The introductory range includes three “Lust & Laune” wines which are designed to be fun and accessible. The white is 100% Grüner Veltliner, the red is a blend of Zweigelt and Pinot Noir, and this rosé is similar to the red but also has dashes of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The colour comes from 20% red wine being added to 80% clear juice – though I don’t have details of which varieties are used for the 20% – rather than the saignée method. Whichever they are, the result is a lovely glowing salmon pink. The nose features fresh, ripe red fruit aromas which jump out of the glass: strawberry, raspberry, loganberry, watermelon and fruit polos. This is a zingy, fun, fleshy, FRUITY wine, full of summer fruits but not at all flabby (residual sugar is only 4 g/L). You might even detect a hint of tannin on the finish, but it’s just a little seasoning. Wonderful stuff!

  • ABV: 12.0%
  • RRP: €11.96 down from €15.95 until 31/08/22
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

I loved both of these wines and would happily drink either again, but in terms of sheer pleasure the Zull wins the day.

 

**Click here to see more posts in the Make Mine a Double Series**

Tasting Events

GrapeCircus Round 1

admin

Led by Venetian Enrico Fantsia, GrapeCircus is an Irish wine importer that specialises in natural, vibrant wines from Italy and other parts of Europe.  His wines are stocked at famous Irish cheesemonger Sheridan’s (with whom he has a partnership) and elsewhere. Here are a few of my favourites:

Cantina Roccafiori Roccafiori Bianco “Fiordaliso” 2015 (12.5%, RRP €17.95 at Sheridans Cheesemongers, SIPYS, Mitchell & Son, Green Man Wines)

Roccafiore Bianco Fiordaliso 2015

Umbria is one of Italy’s less-heralded wine regions, but rising standards have caused its wines to be increasingly sought out.  Roccafiore is situated in the hills of Todi and runs on a natural and environmentally-friendly basis, even going so far as to use solar power for their energy needs.  Fiordaliso is a blend of local grapes Grechetto di Todi (85%) and Trebbiano Spoletino (15%).  It’s a dry, crisp wine with Granny Smith apples and fresh citrus zest.

M&A Arndorfer Strass Im Sassertale Kamptal Grüner Veltliner 2015 (12.5%, RRP €18.95 at Sheridans Cheesemongers, SIPYS)

Arndorfer GV

Martin & Anna Arndorfer both come from well respected winemaking families in Kamptal, Niederösterreich, but have become recognised for the purity and originality of their own wines.  This is a clean, dry introduction to Austria’s signature grape Grüner Veltliner.  Minimal intervention allows the characteristics of the variety to shine through – soft pip fruit and floral notes, medium body and a white pepper kick to the finish.

Roncus Friuli Ribolla Gialla 2016 (12.0%, RRP €22.50 at Sheridans Cheesemongers, SIPYS, Green Man Wines)

Roncus Ribolla Gialla

Ribolla Gialla is probably my favourite native Italian white grape as it just has so much character.  It’s a speciality of Friuli in the north east of Italy, bordering Austria and Slovenia, where local grape Friulano (aka Sauvignonasse, Sauvignon Vert) is also prominent.  Roncus’s example has plenty of soft pip fruit but also intriguing aromas and flavours of almond.  As I love almonds, perhaps that’s why I love this wine so much?

Domaine Vinci Côtes Catalanes “Coyade” 2014 (12.0%, RRP €31.50 at Sheridans Cheesemongers, SIPYS, Green Man Wines)

Vinci Cotes Catalan Coyade

Domaine Vinci’s Olivier Varichon and Emanuelle Vinci take a natural approach to winemaking, using wild yeast for fermentation and bottling with no fining or filtration.  It seems fitting that a wine from French Catalonia uses grapes also found on the Spanish side of the border – Maccabeu (aka Macabeo, 70%), Grenache Blanc (20%) and Carignan Blanc (10%).  Maccabeu can be somewhat boring neutral, but given some diurnal variation from altitude and sensible yields it can produce interesting, aromatic wines such as Coyade.  This is a fresh, mineral wine which would partner well with shellfish and other seafood, but has enough flavour and interest to be delightful on its own.

Tenuta Ansitz Dornach Pinot Bianco “XY” 2010 (12.5%, RRP €38.00 at Sheridans Cheesemongers, SIYPS, Mitchell & Son)

Pinot Bianco XY

Trentino / Alto Adige has both Italian and Austrian roots, so there’s no surprise that the gamut of grape varieties runs from Pinot Grigio to Müller-Thurgau.  However, this Alpine region also makes some classy Pinot Bianco – a grape which is often suited to everyday drinking but is rarely treated seriously.  The “XY” cuvée is treated more like a Chardonnay than a Pinot Blanc – it spends at least twenty months on the lees in second use French oak barriques, giving it texture and flavour.  There’s a little vanilla from the oak but more nuts and toastiness, all on top of fresh apple and citrus.  This is a refined, poised wine which would turn any white Burgundy-lover’s head.