Tag: Merlot

Retail Promotion Events

Classy Clarets in the O’Briens French Wine Sale – Part 2

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The Irish wine specialist chain O’Briens have their French Wine Sale running from 27th April to 24th May, all with a reduction of at least 20%. Part 1 looked at three inexpensive red Bordeaux wines that really punch above their price point. This post now has a more upmarket trio, at higher price points, but still delivering quality, typicity and value for money.

Château Franc-Maillet Pomerol 2020

Château Franc-Maillet 2019 bottle shot

Part 1 of our journey finished in the Graves, and now we pop across to the right bank, where Merlot is king. Pomerol is much smaller than the more celebrated Saint-Emilion, and doesn’t have the layers of classification, but does just fine without them. After all, if Pétrus doesn’t need to be called PremierSuperGrandCruClasséAA1+ then who does?

Franc-Maillet’s vineyards actually border those of Pétrus, though its soils are not quite as intensively clay. The vines are nearly all Merlot (95%) with just a little Cab Franc (5%), typical of the appellation.

Pomerol wines have a reputation for power and intensity, which F-M lives up to, but it also has complexity and subtlety. Big ripe plums are complemented by lighter raspberry notes. Black cherries also have red counterparts. Vanillin aspects are entwined with smoke and spice.

This isn’t a blockbuster wine, but given time in the glass it will take you on a vinous journey.

  • ABV: 14.0%
  • RRP: €43.99 on promotion
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Château de Fieuzal Pessac-Léognan Rouge 2020

Château Fieuzal Pessac-Léognan 2020 bottle shot

If the Graves Rouge in Part 1 was deserving of praise more akin to that of a Pessac-Léognan, then here we have the real McCoy, a Grand Cru Classé de Graves in fact. The estate has long been held in high regard, with a history stretching back to the 1600s. In the first year of this century it was bought by Irish businessman and philanthropist Lochlann Quinn. Presumably he is also something of a wine lover!

Fieuzal makes four wines; both red and white Grands Vins then a second wine of each colour with the label L’Abeille de Fieuzal. Somewhat unusually for the left bank, the second wine tends to have a little more Cabernet Sauvignon than the Grand Vin.

When I revealed this wine as the finale to a Bordeaux tasting at my wine club, there was initially a little disappointment that I hadn’t picked a Saint-Emilion. However, given the blend this Château Fieuzal is probably closer to a right bank wine in style than that of a Haut-Médoc: it consists of 65% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot.

And so it proves in the glass; the Merlot dominance gives both red and black fruit notes, with signature ripe plum aspects. There’s a velvet smoothness here, but not overt opulence, as a streak of freshness keeps everything nicely balanced.

 

  • ABV: 14.0%
  • RRP: €55 on promotion
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Château Kirwan Margaux 3ème Grand Cru Classé 2019

Château Kirwan Margaux bottle shot

Back to the Médoc again, but this time the celebrated commune and appellation of Margaux. Not Château Margaux itself, but another estate that was ranked in the 1855 Classification – and with a fine Irish name to boot. Its name comes from the founder Mark Kirwan, one of the “Tribes of Galway” who moved to Bordeaux in the late 18th century.

Château Kirwan has 38 hectares (94 acres) of vineyards, planted to 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot and 2% Chardonnay, plus a tiny bit of newly planted Carménère. The small amount of Chardonnay certainly catches the eye. Kirwan has 1.1 hectares planted with 10,000 Chardonnay vines with the aim of producing a different type of white wine than normal in Bordeaux. As the variety is not permitted under AOC rules, it is bottled as a simple Vin de France; with the plots being located outside the Margaux AOC the vines are not reducing the estate’s potential Cru Classé production.

There are two red wines – Château Kirwan and a second wine Charmes de Kirwan. The precise blend of the Grand Vin fluctuates somewhat depending on the vintage, but is nearly always a little more than half Cab Sauv with support from Merlot and then the other grapes. The assemblage of the Charmes changes much more significantly from year to year. It tends to have a decent majority of Merlot, but in recent years that has been as high as 98% (2022) and as low as 32% (2019 – which had a stonking 58% Of CS).

The 2019 vintage of Château Kirwan consists of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit verdot and 1% of the new Carménère. The grapes were harvested between 23rd September and 11th October. After fermentation the wines were matured in a 50:50 mix of new and one year old French oak.

Unsurprisingly with almost three fifths Cabernet Sauvignon, black fruits dominate the nose, escorted by fine smoke and cedarwood notes. The palate is all about restrained power, with ripe blackcurrant and blackberry accompanied by plums, all set against a fine tannin structure.

This wine isn’t at its peak yet – and has decades ahead of it – but is already drinking well. It’s a real treat, especially at the offer price.

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €72 on promotion
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

Although these are all premium wines, even at promotional prices there is a considerable price difference between the tree. I think they represent similar levels of value for money, so you get what you pay for. In the end it comes down to the subregion and style that you prefer – and as I’m a fan of well made Cabernet Sauvignon it has to be the Kirwan for me!

 

Tasting Events

Classy Clarets in the O’Briens French Wine Sale – Part 1

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The Irish wine specialist chain O’Briens have their French Wine Sale running from 27th April to 24th May, all with a reduction of at least 20%.They also have a rosé wine sale which will run for the whole summer. Expect more on that in the near future. In the meantime, here are some of the red Bordeaux wines which hit the mark at different price points.

Château des Léotins Bordeaux 2023

Château des Léotins Bordeaux bottle shot

While the left bank and right bank areas in Bordeaux take all the plaudits, there’s still a lot of good Claret made outside of these famous areas. For white wines, the Entre-Deux-Mers subregion – between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers – is a source of accessible wines, in terms of both style and price.

Reds from the same area carry the humble AOC Bordeaux label, but the clay and limestone soils can also produce tasty reds. This Château des Léotins is such a red. The property is owned by Vignobles Lumeau, a family-owned concern in Sauveterre-de-Guyenne, now run by their eighth generation. They produce more than a dozen different wines – including a white and a rosé – with different blends, oak treatments and personalities.

This bottling is a blend of Merlot, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon. After picking the grapes are cold soaked for three to five days, then fermented at 25C. Fermentation and maturation are both in stainless steel tanks to emphasise the grapes’ fruit flavours.

In the glass it pours a deep ruby red with purple flecks. The nose shows notes of strawberry jam and spice. The palate has ripe red and black berry fruits, along with plum and chocolate from the Merlot.

This is an enjoyable red Bordeaux which offers great value. Perfect for kicking off a barbecue!

ABV: 13.0%
RRP: €12.79 on promotion
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Château Saint-Bonnet Médoc Cru Bourgeois 2018

Saint Bonnet Médoc Cru Bourgeois bottle shot

Another Bordeaux subregion that often gets overlooked is AOC Médoc; not the Médoc peninsula as a whole, but rather the wines from the northern reaches which are lower-lying and closer to the meeting of the Gironde and the Atlantic. This section does not have the gravel banks which serve Cabernet Sauvignon so well in the famous communes of Pauillac, Saint-Julien and their neighbours, so Merlot is more common, especially on clay rich soils. There are no classed growths in the Médoc AOC, but there are some wines which carry the Cru Bourgeois designation (the next level down).

Château Saint Bonnet is owned by the Merlaut family , proprietors of St Julien’s famous Château Gruaud Larose. The head of the family, Jean Merlaut, is a fervent ambassador of the Médoc appellation and has made significant investments in the region, including the acquisition of 137 hectares of vines. He also hired Regis Portfilet from Châteaux Lafite Rothschild and Duhart Milon as winemaker.

The assemblage of this wine is thus typical for the area, being 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. The predominance of Merlot results in a velvet richness and plenty of oomph with 14.0% abv. Plump plums enter like a rugby player heading to the bar in need of a pint, followed by blackcurrant and a coterie of finer notes. In comparison to the simpler wine above, oak does play a role in the maturation of this wine, adding to the structure of course, but also notes of cedar and tobacco box.

Overall this is a delicious wine which gives you a taste (pun fully intended) of what Bordeaux can do, without breaking the bank.

ABV: 14.0%
RRP: €20.79 on promotion
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Château Villa Bel-Air Graves Rouge 2022

Château Villa Bel Air Graves Rouge bottle shot

While I’m on the subject of under appreciated Bordeaux subregions, here’s another: the wines of Graves, particularly AOC Graves. Wine has been made in the Graves area south west of Bordeaux for hundreds of years, even before the Médoc was drained to make it suitable for viticulture. The best areas were delineated into the new Pessac-Léognan appellation in 1987, but the remaining Graves has some under-rated wines.

Château Villa Bel-Air was bought by the JM Cazes family of Lynch-Bages in 1988 and have made significant investments to improve quality. Many of the vineyard plots had addition drainage added and were totally replanted, making for nicely mature vines now.

As we’re in the Graves, both red and white wines are made, but here we’re just looking at the red. The blend is generally 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, though it varies appropriately with the vintage. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks but then maturation is in a mix of new and older oak for 12 to 15 months.

And what is the result? This is a banger! It has all the lovely plum and cassis that you’d expect, but there’s also intoxicating vanilla and lifted spices swirling in between the berries.

As a generalisation, Pessac-Léognan of both colours can be magnificent, while Graves wines tend to be more modest, but this Château Villa Bel-Air is worthy of being considered as a proper grown up wine. It really punches above its price point.

ABV: 14.0%
RRP: €20.79 on promotion
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

 

 

 

Retail Promotion Events

5 Value Reds from O’Briens

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We’ve already looked at some great value whites, and now it’s time to look at some great value reds from O’Briens.

Wildflower Pinot Noir 2022

Wildflower Pinot Noir bottle shot

As I mentioned previously, the whole Wildflower range is pretty good. This Pinot Noir is a light, easy-drinking style. There’s a blast of red and black berries on the nose, with just a touch of spice and sous bois.

The palate is fruit forward, with fresh raspberry and strawberry fruits, and just a touch of bramble. The tannins are soft and silky, preventing jamminess, but keeping it an easy-drinking wine.

Pinot Noir is known as being very particular about its growing conditions, but Wildflower have cracked it.

ABV: 12.5%
RRP: €9.49 down from €14.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Wildflower Merlot 2023

Wildflower Merlot bottle shot

The Wildflower Merlot is again an easy drinking, varietally-typical wine from Romania’s Viile Timisului region.

This time the fruits range more into the darker end of the spectrum, with purple plums and blackberries. It’s soft and inviting, with hints of chocolate on the finish.

This is the perfect wine for sipping in front of an open fire and ignoring the weather outside.

ABV: 13.0%
RRP: €9.49 down from €14.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Cidade Branco (White Town) Alentejo 2023

Cidade Branca Alentejo bottle shot

From Romania we now move to the far west of Europe with this hearty red blend from the Alentejo in Portugal. The name of the wine is taken from the nickname of the town of Estremoz, whose buildings are built with white marble.

The wine itself is a blend of local varieties Alicante Bouschet, Aragonês and Touriga Nacional. I say local, though Aragonês does appear in many other Portuguese and Spanish regions under different names, the most well known being Tempranillo!

Despite the chunky 14.0% alcohol this is an un-oaked, juicy, approachable style of wine. The nose shows lots of fresh red fruits, which feed through to the palate. There, they are joined by hints of liquorice and fine tannins, making this a proper grown-up wine.

Try this with lamb or beef to show it at its best.

ABV: 14.0%
RRP: €8.99 down from €13.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Belles Eaux Mistral Syrah

Belles Eaux Mistral Syrah bottle shot

Compared to Pinot Noir, Syrah can shine in a wider variety of climatic conditions, particularly with respect to sunshine and temperature. At its boldest in hot locations such as Australia’s Barossa Valley, it can also shine in cooler and windier places such as the northern Rhône. Belles Eaux Syrah is from the Languedoc, and using its ABV as a guide it falls a little closer to the Rhône style.

Despite being an easy-drinking style, this is a proper Syrah. There are lovely red berry fruits on the nose and the palate, but also light notes of the grapes typical spice and pepper, and just a little black olive. These savoury touches make it very food friendly, though it doesn’t need food. According to the good folks at O’Briens this would be great with cheeses, but I’d have to defer to them on that one.

ABV: 13.5%
RRP: €10.00 down from €15.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

JP Ramos Alentejo Reserva 2023

JP Ramos Reserva Alentejo bottle shot

Another wine from the Ramos family, this time with their name front and centre. This blend introduces a new grape to this post: Trincadeira, which is apparently “difficult to grow, and is sensitive to rot”. I’m no expert on the climate of the Alentejo, but I expect it is dry enough for rot to be a minor issue. The other main grape is our friend Aragonês, with a small amount of Syrah added for complexity and depth.

If the White Town is a grown up wine then this is even more senior. The fruit is even more concentrated and there’s more body and spice – possibly from some ageing in oak, though I wasn’t able to confirm that. The array of fruits include raspberry, blackberry, blackcurrant, red and black cherries and plums. Although the mid palate is a little jammy, there’s still enough tannin and acidity to keep everything well integrated and balanced.

For me this is well worth the normal price, and a veritable bargain at the promotional offer.

ABV: 13.5%
RRP: €10.99 down from €15.95 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

Any of these wines would be a great buy, especially at the offer prices, so it’s hard to pick just one. I’ll pick two then: the Wildflower Pinot Noir if you fancy something light, or the JP Ramos if you fancy something a bit more substantial.

Make Mine A Double

SuperValu French Wine Event 2025 (2) Party Fizz

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As a dedicated wine geek with a serious interest in wine, I sometimes have to remind myself that some people – probably the majority of wine drinkers, in fact – don’t take wine as seriously. Many folk just like a glass of wine to relax or while having fun with friends.

It is in that spirit that I present two more wines from the 2025 SuperValu French Wine Event, both sparkling:

Louis Couturier Crémant de Bordeaux Brut Blanc NV

 

Louis Couturier Crémant de Bordeaux NV bottle shot

Bordeaux is one of the eight French wine regions that produce a Crémant, but these traditional method sparkling wines receive little publicity compared to the reds, or even the whites, of the region. Unlike many of the other Crémant AOCs, the permitted grape varieties are the same as those for still wines, with no exception made for Chardonnay which can be so useful for making fizz.

This example is made from 90% Merlot, the most widely planted black grape, with 10% Sémillon, the most widely planted white grape. Early removal from the Merlot skins ensures that this remains a white and not a rosé.

Just as Merlot is known for producing fruit-driven reds, so it is here in this Crémant; red cherries, strawberries and raspberries flow through the mid-palate, with a lemon edge provided by the Semillon. The 12 grams of residual sugar are on the high side for modern Crémants, but they reinforce the fruitiness.

This wine is not aimed at Champagne enthusiasts, but it would be great for Prosecco fans who want to try something a little more serious, but still very approachable and very drinkable.

  • RRP: €22 down to €15 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 12.0%
  • RS: 12.0 g/L
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Screaming Devil Bubbalicious Rose Spritz NV

Screaming Devil Bubbalicious Rosé Spritz bottle shot

Whereas the Crémant above is made during the traditional method, and the vast majority of Prosecco is made with the less expensive tank method, this bottle discloses no information on how the bubbles were produced. And that is fine! I suspect the bubbles might even be added by carbonation (a.k.a. the “soda stream method”). And that is also fine. Because the target market for this wine don’t give a hoot.*

So what is this wine? It’s an off-dry, lightly sparkling rosé. And it’s fun! And delicious! The palate is crammed full of cherries and strawberries, more than seems possible without throwing in a few actual fruits. The residual sugar isn’t mentioned, but given the calories per glass I reckon it’s somewhere around 11.5 g/L – and that sugar emphasizes the fruit rather than coming across as sugariness.

The screwcap makes it ideal for enjoying a glass or two then putting it back in the fridge.

  • RRP: €10 down to €8 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 10.0%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Conclusion

The Louis Couturier is good value at the offer price of €15, though at the regular price of €22 I’d personally spend a little more and buy the Arthur Metz Crémant d’Alsace. For Prosecco drinkers looking to trade up to something a little more elegant then it really fits the bill.

At a regular price of €10 or offer price of €8 the Bubbalicious is well worth a punt. I’d share a picture of its lovely pink colour, but my bottle was finished too quickly!

* Just like Honey Badger – ask Randall

Make Mine A Double

O’Briens Summer Sips (2) Juicy reds

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After two fresh whites, now it’s time to look at a couple of juicy red wines in the O’Briens French wine sale:

Belles Eaux Gloriette Syrah 2022

wine label

Belles Eaux is another Languedoc producer bottled by Les Grands Chais de France (GCF). Whereas Château wines are AOC, those without the prefix are simpler varietal IGP wine.

For those not aware – and that group included myself until very recently – a Gloriette is an outdoor room, raised above its surroundings. Francophiles might twig that Gloriette is the diminutive of “Gloire”, an alternative word for “room” in French.

Syrah is an important grape in the Languedoc, though rarely seen as a single varietal – it’s often blended with Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault, among others. This is a clean, unoaked and fruit forward example. Given the ample 13.5% alcohol, one might think that this is a bold and weighty wine, but it’s actually more medium in heft, and a little lighter in colour than typical for the grape.

There’s fruit and spice here, but it’s red cherry rather than warmer climate Shiraz’s blackberry and black cherry. On a warm day this was a tasty and refreshing wine after being chilled for 30 minutes. If you’re not a rosé lover then this makes for a great outdoor alternative.

  • RRP: €14.95 down to €10.00 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 13.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Belles Eaux Mistral Merlot 2023

wine label

This Merlot is named after the Mistral wind which hits the Languedoc and Provence from the south. It’s somewhat bigger and bolder than it’s Syrah counterpart above – deeper in colour, a little higher in alcohol and more weighty. There’s even a little tannin on the finish which helps keeep the fruit from becoming too jammy.

Although obviously not suitable for Merlot-avoiders, this is a very quaffable wine that is enjoyable on its own or with hearty food…it’s barbecue season at the moment so worth buying while on offer.

  • RRP: €14.95 down to €10.00 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 14.0%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

I really liked both of these wines, and I think they are worth the regular price tag. Choosing between them is a preference of style rather than a difference in quality. At the offer price I’d snap both of them up!

**Click here to see more posts in the Make Mine a Double Series**

 

 

Opinion

Wine Review: Reds from the 2023 SuperValu French Wine Sale

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The 2023 edition of the SuperValu French Wine Sale is upon us. As last year, some German wines are included, specifically those from producer Albert Glas. This post will cover five of the red wines which are among the 40 included in the sale which kicks off on Friday 1st September. They hail from Bordeaux, the Rhône and the Pfalz.

Albert Glas Black Label Pinot Noir 2020

Albert Glas Black Label Pinot Noir 2020 Bottle Shot

As I mentioned in the sister post on the white wines in the 2023 SuperValu French wine sale, Dominik Glas follows the techniques of his grandfather Albert. Overall, 2020 was a good vintage in the Pfalz, with some frost in the the spring which impacted yields, but overall left a good quality crop. The grapes in different plots all ripened around the same time which made harvest time very pressured.

After 100% hand picking, the grapes are macerated and fermented in 600 litre bins, with gentle push-downs by hand and no pumping over. Maturation then takes place in both Pfalz (80%) and French (20%) oak barrels for 12 to 18 months.

This is archetypal European Pinot Noir. Is has the typical light colour, quite different to the other wines below. It is, however, full of flavour, with cherry and other red fruits, spice and a lick of oak. It’s still young, with refreshing acidity, but is an elegant light wine that’s perfect for the late summer sun.

  • ABV: 13.0 %
  • RRP: €12 down from €20
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Château Lacombe Cadiot Bordeaux Supérieur 2020

Château Lacombe Cadiot Bordeaux Supérieur 2020 Bottle Shot

Château Lacombe Cadiot is one of six Bordeaux properties owned by the Belgian De Schepper family under the De Mour banner. De Mour also has a negotiant business but do not sell their own wines through that system, instead establishing more direct relationships. The first property acquired was Tour Baladoz (see below) in 1950, and the latest was Lacombe Cadiot which was added in 2004.

Lacombe Cadiot’s wines are classed as Bordeaux Supérieur, a prominent red Bordeaux appellation, but they are unusual in being from the Médoc; only 4% of Supérieur vineyards are in the Médoc, with the remainder mainly being in the Entre-Deux-Mers and north of Libourne. In fact, Lacombe Cadiot and its sister property Château Tayet (another Bordeaux Supérieur from close to Macau) are known as “Baby Margaux”. De Mour aim to make fresh, drinkable wines that can still age – the best of both worlds.

This 2020 is made of 60% Merlot*, 30% Cabernet-Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot from 15 hectares of vines. That’s quite a high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon for an AOC Bordeaux / Supérieur, partly due to the vineyards’ location and partly because 2020 was an excellent vintage in Bordeaux – the third in a row in fact – which is when Cab Sauv tends to shine. After pressing and fermentation, the wine matured for 12 months, 60% in barrels (including 25% new) with 40% in vats.

In the glass it’s a very deep red in colour, almost black. The nose is heady, with deep black and red fruits, plus some tobacco notes. The palate is soft and voluptuous. Intense fruit is framed by silky, soft tannins. It makes for a very approachable, quaffable wine, one that can be drunk on its own or with food, one that can be consumed now or kept until the end of the decade.

I’ve tried several vintages of this wine over the years, but this is the best one yet.

    • ABV: 14.0%
    • RRP: €13 down from €16.99
    • Source: sample
    • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Château Tour Baladoz Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2020

Château Tour Baladoz Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2020 Bottle Shot

In contrast to the top wines of Bordeaux’s Médoc, which are often from large estates and need years to enter their drinking window, those of the right bank – Saint-Émilion and Pomerol – are often from smaller estates but are approachable at an earlier age. Saint-Emilion also has a completely different classification system, one that is somewhat merit-based and is revised every ten years, rather than being ossified in 1855.

Château Tour Baladoz was recently promoted to Grand Cru Classé status with effect from the 2022 vintage. The evaluation process included the tasting by a professional panel of ten different vintages on five different occasions, so it would be fair to say that this 2020 vintage is of Grand Cru Classé quality, if not status.

Tour Baladoz’s nine hectares of vineyards are 105 metres above sea level, which doesn’t sound very high, but as Bordeaux is a maritime region it’s one of the higher points. 70% are on a limestone plateau with 30% on gentle slopes. There’s a thin layer of clay over the limestone, adding a touch of power to the latter’s freshness. Vine roots have even pushed beneath the limestone into the Château’s underground cellars.

The blend is a full house of traditional black Bordeaux varieties (excluding the new experimental varieties): Merlot* (75%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), Petit Verdot (6%), Malbec (2%) and Carmenérè (2%). After fermentation, the whe wines are aged for 15 to 20 months in French oak barrels from 10 different cooperages, including 70% new barrels.

Even on the eye it is apparent that this is an intense, young wine. The nose is fragrant and complex, with red and black fruits, vanilla, smoke, graphite and even a touch of aniseed. The palate is very primary at this stage, with powerful plum, blackberry and vanilla. There’s a dusting of dark chocolate on the finish, which also shows grippy tannins.

It’s obvious that this is going to be a spectacular wine, but it’s just not ready yet. The component parts are a little disjointed, and the alcohol is a little too obvious. For those who buy bottles to lay down for a few years this is worth buying, but for immediate drinking I would be cautious.

  • ABV: 14.5%
  • RRP: €30 down from €44.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Granits Saint-Joseph 2021

Granits Saint-Joseph 2021 Bottle Shot

Saint-Joseph is a “Cru” or prestigious appellation from the Northern Rhône – Vallée du Rhône Septentrionale in the local lingo – and hence is Syrah based – 100% Syrah in fact. It’s actually my go-to AOC in the Northern Rhône as it offers a great mix of quality and affordability. Côte Rôtie and Hermitage wines can be exceptional wines, but so can their prices.

This wine is made from vines on granite soils in the north of the AOC, close to Condrieu. Harvesting was all by hand and whole bunches were fermented together. For ageing the wine was split 50/50 between stainless steel tanks and used oak barrels. 2021 was a fairly wet and cold vintage for the Rhône, giving reds that are naturally high in acidity and can age gravefully for years.

At ony just twenty four months old this is indeed a young wine, with a bright purple rim and deep colour. The nose is typical Rhône Syrah, showing blueberry and blackberry fruit, but also a sniff of menthol and eucaplyptus. That fruit is very evident on the palate, along with parma violets (violet flavoured sweets, for those not familiar). It’s quite a tannin wine which gives the drinker three options: put it away for a few years, decant it for several hours, or drink it at the table with steak. If any of those options appeal, snap it up!

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €15 down from €25
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Domaine St. Patrice “Vieilles Vignes” Châteauneuf du Pape 2017

Domaine St Patrice Châteauneuf du Pape 2017 Bottle Shot
Still in the Rhône, but this time the Southern Rhône, we now have a wine from the world famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Apparently a favourite of James Joyce, Domaine St. Patrice’s vines total 40 hectares across several parcels, predominantly on sandy-clay soils. The Domaine makes three different wines: a “regular” CNDP, this “Vieilles Vignes” (Old Vines) bottling and a “Monopole” from the 1.8 hectare Clos St Patrice which is solely owned by the Domaine.

In a slight tweak to the usual GSM+ CNDP blend, although the relative percentages of the different varieties are not given, it appears to be a Grenache-Mourvèdre-Syrah blend, with a seasoning of little Counoise and Cinsault. Most of the vines are between 40 and 70 years old.

2017 was a warm, dry year with low yields. The wines made were naturally intense and concentrated. The low rainfal led to slightly delayed phenolic ripeness so harvesting was late in the season. Whole bunch fermentation was used for differeing proportions of the grapes depending on variety. Ageing is in a mix of large steel tanks and foudres.

At six years old this wine is nicely hitting its straps. In the glass, the rim is already brick red, heading towards garnet. The components are nicely integrated and the flavours are blossoming. Aromas are intriguing and enticing, with a bouquet garni embedded in sweet fruits. The palate is rich, round, but velvety soft. The alcohol is high (well this is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape!) but it doesn’t stick out jarringly.

This is a very attractive wine which performs well for its normal price of €40, but at €30 it’s a bargain. If ever there was a wine worth trading up to, this is it.

  • ABV: 15.5 %
  • RRP: €30 down from €40
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Conclusion

These wines vary significantly in style but all have their positives. The Albert Glas is light, fruity and gluggable, drinking well right now. The Saint-Joseph and Tour Baladoz both need time and / or food. For drinking now (or later), on their own (or with food), the two that stand out for me are the Lacombe Cadiot (classy but not snobby according to my friends Una and Peter) and the Saint-Patrice. Those are the two that will be going in my shopping trolley.

 

*sorry Jim

Make Mine A Double

Wine Review: Langlois L’Extra Crémant Rosé and Zull Lust & Laune Rosé

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Yes it’s August already, so why not enhance the summer vibe with some totally drinkable rosé?

Here is a pair from O’Briens’ August wine promotions – one sparkling and one still – that are worth popping open anytime, but especially when they are on offer:

Langlois L’Extra Crémant de Loire Rosé NV

Langlois L'Extra Crémant de Loire Rosé NV

Langlois are a well-established Saumur-based Loire producer who specialise in Crémants – they have six including this rosé – as well as reds and whites from Saumur and the surrounding appellations. They have been part of the Bollinger group since 1973 and their parent’s savoir-faire has undoubtedly helped to lift quality.

There are two classes in the Anglois Crémant range. The four traditional Crémants consist of up to four varieties: Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir, in either NV or vintage expressions. The L’Extra range has a white – which is outstanding – and this rosé.

The blend for this Crémant is 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Grolleau. The latter is a black grape primarily grown in the Loire and used for rosés – Anjou rosé and Crémant rosé – though seldomly seen on a front label. The grapes are pneumatically pressed immediately after destemming, giving 100 litres of juice from 150 kg of grapes. For this wine the free run juice (the cuvée) and some of the subsequent light pressings (the taille) are used. It spends a minimum of 12 months in bottle before disgorgement.

In the glass it is fully sparkling (the traditional method is used for all Crémants) and a pale salmon colour. The nose shows lots of fresh summer fruits, notably raspberry and strawberry. In the mouth it has a light and creany texture, with those summer fruits back again. It has a certain yeastiness, but not the full-on brioche experience of some Champagnes.

For me this rosé comes a narrow second to its white sibling, but there’s no shame in that as the Blanc is so excellent – I bought my wife a dozen for mother’s day this year. If you fancy a well-made pink fizz then there’s little to touch this at the price.

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €18.95 down from €21.45 until 31/08/22
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Zull NiederÖsterrreich Lust & Laune Rosé 2021

Zull Lust & Laune Rosé

Weingut Zull is a quality Austrian producer still in the hands of its founding family. It has four ranges within its portfolio, the majority of which carry the Weinwiertel DAC appellation. The introductory range includes three “Lust & Laune” wines which are designed to be fun and accessible. The white is 100% Grüner Veltliner, the red is a blend of Zweigelt and Pinot Noir, and this rosé is similar to the red but also has dashes of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The colour comes from 20% red wine being added to 80% clear juice – though I don’t have details of which varieties are used for the 20% – rather than the saignée method. Whichever they are, the result is a lovely glowing salmon pink. The nose features fresh, ripe red fruit aromas which jump out of the glass: strawberry, raspberry, loganberry, watermelon and fruit polos. This is a zingy, fun, fleshy, FRUITY wine, full of summer fruits but not at all flabby (residual sugar is only 4 g/L). You might even detect a hint of tannin on the finish, but it’s just a little seasoning. Wonderful stuff!

  • ABV: 12.0%
  • RRP: €11.96 down from €15.95 until 31/08/22
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

I loved both of these wines and would happily drink either again, but in terms of sheer pleasure the Zull wins the day.

 

**Click here to see more posts in the Make Mine a Double Series**

Opinion

Piedmont and Verona Wines from the SuperValu Italian Wine Sale

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The 2022 SuperValu Italian wine sale is almost over, so it’s time to pick up the last few bargains. I’ve already covered the Guest wines from Tuscany that are included in the sale; now it’s time to look at the Guest wines from Piedmont and Verona:

Ricossa Barolo 2017

Ricossa Barolo

Barolo has a great number of devotees, some of whom declare it the finest wine in the world. It’s not always the most approachable wine, however, with major tannins and acidity that can approach searing, and hence often needs significant ageing before it can be drunk. Ricossa Barolo is not made in that style and this 2017 can be drunk now, though it still shows considerable character. The Ricossa winery is located in Nizza Monferato but the fruit is sourced from across the Barolo region.

The nose shows red and black berry fruits, liquorice, tobacco and caramel. The palate is rich and very expressive, with notes of black and red liquorice, cherries and raspberries, plus those darker notes. It has tannin and acidity as a proper Barolo should, but they don’t dominate the wine. This is a great way to get a taste* for one of Italy’s most esteemed wines

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €16.70 down from €24.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Altygo Piedmont Rosso 2019

Piemonte DOC Altygo

Although Barolo is the pinacle wine of Piedmont, locals often drink more modest wines made from other indigenous varieties such as Dolcetto and Barbera. This Piemonte red blend is based on the former, which, despite its name, is not sweet in nature. Freisa and Merlot are also included to add complexity. Fermentation and ageing are in stainless steel tanks to maintain freshness, with daily pumping over to extract colour and flavour. Interestingly this is the first vintage to be released of this wine, but the makers aim to maintain the style from year to year so that consumers know what they are getting rather than the wine being an expression of the vintage.

In the glass this has a typical medium intensity, bright ruby with purple flecks. The nose shows red fruits, both ripe and fresh, with dried herbs and spices in the mix. In the mouth it is fruit driven – black and red cherry, raspberry and alpine strawberry – with a dry, savoury edge. Firm tannins and good acidity beg for red meat or a cheese and charcuterie platter. A great introduction to some lesser known Italian varieties.

  • ABV: 14.0%
  • RRP: €12.00 down from €17.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Acquesi Asti NV

Acquesi Asti

The region of Asti developed a reputation for its sweet sparkling wines, but so much muck was labelled as Asti Spumante that they decided to drop the Spumante qualifier. Although the wine is sweet and sparkling, good examples are so much more than that: they are fantastically aromatic. Being made from 100% Moscato Bianco – known in French as Muscat blanc à Petits Grains – the focus on aromas is not a surprise.

This bottle has only been produced since 2018 but has been a real hit with critics and consumers for several reasons. The beautiful bottle print evokes the style of Liberty and has an image of “La Bollente”, an iconic spa in Acqui Terme from which the wine takes its name. The wine is made using the Charmat method, known locally as Martinotti Method, which is ideal for preserving aromas from the grapes.

Muscat sometimes gets a bad rep for being on the simple side, yet this sparker is anything but. Aromas of honey, stone fruits and citrus are intertwined and compete for your attention. On the palate there is freshness and sweetness simultaneously. This is a wine which is approachable yet satisfying, delicious on its own or perfect with dessert courses.

  • ABV: 7.0%
  • RRP: €12.00 down from €17.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Monte Del Fra Corvina Veronese 2019

Monte Del Fra Corvina Veronese

Corvina is one of the principal grapes of the Verona area, featuring in Valpolicella, Bardonlino and other wines, though often blended with others such as Rondinella and Molinara. This IGT is 100% Corvina Veronese with no drying of grapes in the winemaking process, and from higher altitude sites. Fermentation and maturation take place in stainless steel cuves to put the fruit first.

On the nose this shows lots of black fruit with hints of spice. The palate opens out with raspberry and blueberry on top of black cherries, but also cocoa, liquorice and black olives. There’s more tannin here than you might expect given the softness of other wines from the region, but this is where the higher altitude comes into play. The producers reckon that its acidity makes it a good match for fish as well as red meat, but I’d be thinking of an Irish stew or cold cuts.

  • ABV: 14.0%
  • RRP: €12.00 down from €17.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Costa Mediana Amarone 2018

Costa Mediana Amarone

So here we have Corvina Veronese again, but this time partnered with Rondinella and from partially air-dried grapes. Drying the grapes gives a higher sugar-to-juice ratio in the press and hence more alcohol (15.0% or so) and some residual sugar. Amarone is the original appassimento wine with many imitators, but it still commands a premium.

This example is full bodied, as it should be, but with acidity to balance the sugar. There are fresh cherries from the grapes but also cocoa powder and tobacco from 12 months of oak ageing. Despite being big and bold there’s a balance here which makes it a success on its own or at the table. It’s good value at €25 but an absolute steal at €16.70.

  • ABV: 15.0%
  • RRP: €16.70 down from €24.99
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

*Pun fully intended

Opinion

Tuscan Wines from the SuperValu Italian Wine Sale

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The 2022 edition of the SuperValu Italian Wine Sale is already in full swing and runs to the 8th of June. As well as reductions on dozens of existing lines, SuperValu Wine Manager Kevin O’Callaghan has secured some excellent “guest wines”. These are wines brought into Ireland by independent wine importers that are only available in SuperValu during the sale.

According to Kevin, “the guest wines we will showcase give our shoppers a chance to expand on their repertoire of wine, showing them the breadth of choice available with the Italian offering and the unique wines produced there. These guest wines really do represent an excitement to try new wines and we really encourage shoppers to use this event to explore new tastes and varieties within the range.”

Here are five guest wines from Cassidy Wines and Febvre & Co that hail from Tuscany:

Cortezza Vermentino Toscana 2020

Cortezza Vermentino Toscana

Vermentino is a real success story for quality Italian white wine. In Tuscany it is mainly planted on the coast, where it benefits from relected light and cooling sea breezes. It’s a late-ripening variety with plenty of aromatic goodness; more than a replacement for Pinot Grigio, it even barges into Riesling territory with its fresh citrus and acidic spine. There are also some subtle herbs on the palate, a reminder of its Mediterranean origins. This is fairly priced at €15 but a total steal at €10 on offer.

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €10 down from €14.99 from 19th May until 8th June
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Cortezza Vino Nobile de Montepulciano 2017

Cortezza Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Wine geeks will probably be aware that Sangiovese, the main black grape of Tuscany, has dozens of different “clones”, slightly different versions of the grape. They arise naturally and the ones that survive are those best suited to the various soils, microclimates and altitudes of the vineyards where they grow. Montepulciano is just a few kilometres from Montalcino, the home of Brunello, but is far less famous. It has similar soil and climate but a less celebrated name and hence a much lower price.

Contezza’s fine example of Vino Nobile spends at least 24 months ageing in large oak casks. Primary aromas are strawberry and cherry, balanced with balsamic notes from the oak. This is wine that really responds to ageing, with tobacco, leather, dairy and forest floor notes joining the nose. For me this is a food wine, perfect to accompany red meat, with fine tannins and a long finish.

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €15 down from €22.49 from 19th May until 8th June
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Forte Ambrone Vino Rosso

Forte Ambrone

This red blend has its roots in Tuscany but its branches stretch to Puglia where Primitivo and Nero d’Avola are sourced to add punch and bright fruit flavours to the the Tuscan Sangiovese. Despite the classic-looking label this is a new wine, designed to appear to modern wine drinkers more than traditional fans of Italian wine. It’s a smooth, rich red with the spikiness of Sangiovese softened out by the southern varieties. It’s an approachable, quaffable wine which won’t appeal to purists but could well convert new world wine drinkers to the charms of Italy.

  • ABV: 14.0%
  • RRP: €10 down from €14.99 from 19th May until 8th June
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Banfi Rosso di Montalcino 2019

Banfi Rosso Di Montalcino

The Banfi estate was set up very recently – by Italian standards – in 1978. They pride themselves on a socially fair and environmentally friendly approach  to producing wine. The estate is large, covering 3,000 contiguous hectares, though only a third of the total is planted with vines. 170 of that is dedicated to Brunello di Montalcino, their flagship wine and one of the most prestigious in Italy. The regulations that come with the reputation also come with a price in terms of cashflow; wines are usually released more than four years after the harvest, and with no en primeur-type system in place that equates to a lot of cash tied up (or “bottled up”!)

The answer is Rosso di Montalicino, a younger brother which is still made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso, aka Brunello, but only has to spend a minimum of six months in oak and twelve in the cellars in total before release. The grapes selected for the Rosso tend to be from younger vines with slightly less concentration, but the same philosophy.

The Banfi Rosso di Montalcino 2019 is a serious wine, with the high tannins and acidity that Montalcino wine is known for. It cries out for food, making the wine better and giving it proper context. It’s a young wine that really needs another decade to shine, but right now a decanter and a thick steak would really elevate it.

  • ABV: 14.5%
  • RRP: €18 down from €26.99 from 19th May until 8th June
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

Banfi Toscana Belnero 2017

Belnero Toscana IGT

This is another serious wine form Banfi, though as it contains “international grapes” – namely Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – in addition to Sangiovse, it is classed as a “Super Tuscan” and not a Brunello. The proportions of each variety aren’t given but the order they are given in suggests that Cabernet has the highest percentage.

It’s not too far removed in style from the Rosso above, though it does have an additional two years under its belt which help round its edges. Belnero is a big wine with lots of power and structure – though less noticeable acidity than its brother – but bright red and black fruits. Though still very young, it is drinking well already, but would obviously gain in complexity and stature over the rest of this decade.

  • ABV: 14.5%
  • RRP: €20 down from €29.99 from 19th May until 8th June
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores

 

Wine Of The Week

Wine of the Week: Château des Grands Chènes Médoc

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Before looking at the wine itself, let’s set the scene by briefly discussing the wine region it comes from, the estate and its owner.

The Médoc

Map of the Médoc wine region
Credit: Bordeaux.com

AOC Médoc wines are not that frequently seen on our shelves – in fact just before opening this for a French friend she mentioned that she rarely sees them in France. Médoc wines are definitely the junior wines of the Médoc peninsula, though at least they though no longer carrying the Bas Médoc moniker. Further south, the Haut Médoc contains most of the famous Bordeaux AOCs: Margaux, Saint Julien, Pauillac and Saint Estèphe; the gravel banks close to the Gironde Estuary are perfect for Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blends. The lower sites of the Médoc AOC tend to perform better with a larger proportion of Merlot.

A few Châteaux have flown the flag for quality in the Médoc, Château Potensac being the most obvious example: the only “Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel” of its appellation.

Bernard Magrez

Bernard Magrez started in the wine trade at a young age and was very much the entrepreneur. He was instrumental in establishing some major wine brands including Malesan and Sidi Brahim. He later began investing in prestigious Bordeaux properties, including his four grands crus classés which he still owns today

  • Château Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé de Graves
  • Château La Tour Carnet, Haut-Médoc Grand Cru Classé en 1855
  • Clos Haut-Peyraguey, Premier Grand Cru Classé de Sauternes
  • Château Fombrauge, Grand Cru Classé de Saint-Émilion

He later expanded outside of Bordeaux, from the south west of France all the way round the world:

  • Rest of France (Languedoc, Roussillon, Rhone, Bergerac, Cahors, Provence, Gascony)
  • Rest of Europe (Italy, Spain)
  • Americas (USA, Brazil, Chile, Uruguay, Argentina)
  • Africa (Morocco)
  • Asia (Japan)

And of course, he is the proprietor of Château des Grands Chènes.

Château des Grands Chènes

The Château saw its first harvest in 1880, as proudly mentioned on the front label. Its location in Saint-Christoly-Médoc is one of the best in the Médoc, being somewhat elevated, right on the Gironde estuary and with soils consisting of gravel, clay and limestone. The Château building itself was originally a fort1 with a strategic position overlooking the water. The estate changed hands several times since its inception, with several owners investing in renovations in the vineyard and the cellars. The most notable of these was, of course, Bernard Magrez who bought it in 1998.

The Château’s vines are planted in the proportion 60% Merlot (mainly on clay) and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon (on gravel and limestone). There used to be Cabernet Franc planted but it was replaced. There is just a single wine made these days; previously there was also a Grande Cuvée made from the best grapes1, but now they all go into the main wine. The name Grands Chènes means great oaks, so it’s fitting that the wine spends time maturing in oak barrels.

Château des Grands Chènes Médoc 2019

Ch des Grands Chênes Médoc 2019

Whilst doing a quick sweep through the wine aisles of the supermarket close to my parents’ in France, I spotted this magnum on promotion. The crossed keys (from Château Pape Clément) and Bernard Magrez signature caught my eyes, so I decided to give it a try. A barbecue with friends the next evening was the perfect occaision to pop it open.

Even the colours on this wine show its youth; a black, almost opaque core is surrounded by a purple glove. The nose is aromatic, with ripe black fruits: plums, blackberry and blackcurrant. There’s sweet vanilla and a touch of spice, too. In the mouth it is powerful and smooth, but generously fruity. There’s a very attractive velvet mouthfeel, with a graphite tang and some good structure supporting all the fruit.

So, so young at the moment, this 2019 could easily last into the 2040s in magnum format, but it’s already approachable and downright delicious!

  • ABV: 14.0%
  • RRP: €26.95 (magnum, in France)
  • Source: purchased from Intermarché

1Source: The Wine Cellar Insider