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5 Value Reds from O’Briens

admin

We’ve already looked at some great value whites, and now it’s time to look at some great value reds from O’Briens.

Wildflower Pinot Noir 2022

Wildflower Pinot Noir bottle shot

As I mentioned previously, the whole Wildflower range is pretty good. This Pinot Noir is a light, easy-drinking style. There’s a blast of red and black berries on the nose, with just a touch of spice and sous bois.

The palate is fruit forward, with fresh raspberry and strawberry fruits, and just a touch of bramble. The tannins are soft and silky, preventing jamminess, but keeping it an easy-drinking wine.

Pinot Noir is known as being very particular about its growing conditions, but Wildflower have cracked it.

ABV: 12.5%
RRP: €9.49 down from €14.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Wildflower Merlot 2023

Wildflower Merlot bottle shot

The Wildflower Merlot is again an easy drinking, varietally-typical wine from Romania’s Viile Timisului region.

This time the fruits range more into the darker end of the spectrum, with purple plums and blackberries. It’s soft and inviting, with hints of chocolate on the finish.

This is the perfect wine for sipping in front of an open fire and ignoring the weather outside.

ABV: 13.0%
RRP: €9.49 down from €14.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Cidade Branco (White Town) Alentejo 2023

Cidade Branca Alentejo bottle shot

From Romania we now move to the far west of Europe with this hearty red blend from the Alentejo in Portugal. The name of the wine is taken from the nickname of the town of Estremoz, whose buildings are built with white marble.

The wine itself is a blend of local varieties Alicante Bouschet, Aragonês and Touriga Nacional. I say local, though Aragonês does appear in many other Portuguese and Spanish regions under different names, the most well known being Tempranillo!

Despite the chunky 14.0% alcohol this is an un-oaked, juicy, approachable style of wine. The nose shows lots of fresh red fruits, which feed through to the palate. There, they are joined by hints of liquorice and fine tannins, making this a proper grown-up wine.

Try this with lamb or beef to show it at its best.

ABV: 14.0%
RRP: €8.99 down from €13.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Belles Eaux Mistral Syrah

Belles Eaux Mistral Syrah bottle shot

Compared to Pinot Noir, Syrah can shine in a wider variety of climatic conditions, particularly with respect to sunshine and temperature. At its boldest in hot locations such as Australia’s Barossa Valley, it can also shine in cooler and windier places such as the northern Rhône. Belles Eaux Syrah is from the Languedoc, and using its ABV as a guide it falls a little closer to the Rhône style.

Despite being an easy-drinking style, this is a proper Syrah. There are lovely red berry fruits on the nose and the palate, but also light notes of the grapes typical spice and pepper, and just a little black olive. These savoury touches make it very food friendly, though it doesn’t need food. According to the good folks at O’Briens this would be great with cheeses, but I’d have to defer to them on that one.

ABV: 13.5%
RRP: €10.00 down from €15.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

JP Ramos Alentejo Reserva 2023

JP Ramos Reserva Alentejo bottle shot

Another wine from the Ramos family, this time with their name front and centre. This blend introduces a new grape to this post: Trincadeira, which is apparently “difficult to grow, and is sensitive to rot”. I’m no expert on the climate of the Alentejo, but I expect it is dry enough for rot to be a minor issue. The other main grape is our friend Aragonês, with a small amount of Syrah added for complexity and depth.

If the White Town is a grown up wine then this is even more senior. The fruit is even more concentrated and there’s more body and spice – possibly from some ageing in oak, though I wasn’t able to confirm that. The array of fruits include raspberry, blackberry, blackcurrant, red and black cherries and plums. Although the mid palate is a little jammy, there’s still enough tannin and acidity to keep everything well integrated and balanced.

For me this is well worth the normal price, and a veritable bargain at the promotional offer.

ABV: 13.5%
RRP: €10.99 down from €15.95 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

Any of these wines would be a great buy, especially at the offer prices, so it’s hard to pick just one. I’ll pick two then: the Wildflower Pinot Noir if you fancy something light, or the JP Ramos if you fancy something a bit more substantial.

Retail Promotion Events

6 Great Value Whites from O’Briens

admin

With the cost of socialising in bars, pubs and restaurants continuing to rise (the reasons for which I will leave for another day), entertaining at home is seeing a corresponding boost. If your tastes in wine are fairly straightforward, then retail outlets have a great selection of well made, tasty wines at modest prices.

Alternatively,  if you’re into more complex or premium wines which wouldn’t necessarily be appreciated (or even liked) by “normie” visitors, what do you do? My personal wine tastes wouldn’t be liked by everyone, so I like to have some wines in that both guests and myself can enjoy together.

The selection below fulfills both criteria. They are all fresh, easy-drinking styles which I recently tried in the O’Briens press tasting. The description that O’Briens themselves use for this category is “Everyday friendly wines” which is apt, and a lot more concise that I have been above!

Wildflower Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Wildflower Sauvignon Blanc bottle shot

Old timers such as myself will remember Romanian wines on the UK supermarket shelves back in the ’90s, particularly Pinot Noir from the Dealu Mare region. At that point the country was just emerging from decades of dictatorship, but wine has been made their for millenia. Today the industry has modernised significantly, often with investment from other countries who have already been through the process.

Wildflower wines are made in the Viile Timisului region by Englishman Philip Cox and his wife Elvira. They are generally very clean, fruit-forward and accessible in style (also see my reviews of the Pinot Noir and Merlot).

This Sauvignon Blanc is intensely aromatic, varietally correct but not a fascimile of either Loire or Marlborough styles. On the palate there’s lots of sweet, juicy citrus fruits, but with a crisp, fresh finish. This would be a great wine to convert some who “don’t like Sauvignon Blanc” – and very enjoyable for those who do. It’s not a bargain at the full price, but an absolute steal with the promotional reduction.

ABV: 11.5%
RRP: €9.49 down from €14.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Mistral Belles Eaux Sauvignon Blanc

Belles Eaux Mistral Sauvignon Blanc bottle shot

Another Sauvignon Blanc, but this time from the Langedoc in the south of France. If your French isn’t up to scratch then “Belles Eaux” means something like “Beautiful Waters” and “Mistral” is th name of a major wind which affects the region.

The nose is more restrained than the Wildflower, with mineral notes joining fruity and floral aromas.

The palate is full of juicy grapefruit and gooseberry, ripe but fresh. This is a nicely balanced wine, great for sipping on its own, but would be perfect for seafood and salads at the table.

As with the Windflower, the regular price is a little too high in my opinion, but this wine is great value during the promotion.

ABV: 12.0%
RRP: €10.00 down from €15.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Cave de Lugny Mâcon 3 Litre bag-in-box

Bag In Box wine

Yes this is box wine! No, it’s not a joke! With the cost of glass bottles and corks making up a higher proportion of the cost of inexpensive wines, it makes sense for other packaging formats to be used. Bag-in-box (often shortened to BIB) is popular in France and other European wine producing countries where wine is seen as a part of everyday life rather than a luxury.

If you have the space for one in the fridge then you have chilled white wine on tap – what’s not to like? BIBs really come into play if your home’s wine consumption is irregular over a few weeks – as there’s very little oxygen getting in contact with the undispensed wine then the wine stays fresher than opened bottles which are put back into the fridge after a few glasses are poured. This is the perfect solution for drop in guests during the festive season.

Cave de Lugny is regarded as one of France’s top co-operatives and is the largest producer within Burgundy. Its roots go back several centuries and it now vinifies wines from 200 growers who farm 1,300 across 25 villages of the most southerly Burgundy region, the Mâconnais.

Of course as we’re in the Mâconnais this is a 100% Chardonnay. It’s unoaked and clean, though with a little more oomph than wines from further north. The nose is softly floral and fruity – Chardonnay without oak isn’t often highly aromatic. The palate is lovely and round, with ripe melon and sweet apples, but all brought back together with a fresh, lemony finish.

ABV: 12.5%
RRP: €54 down from €60 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Bougrier  Touraine “Les Secrets de Sophie” 2023

The region around the city of Tour – Touraine – offers some of the best value wines of the Loire Valley, though they rarely hit the heights of more illustrious neighbours such as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. That doesn’t mean that diligent vignerons can’t produce very good wines here, with this wine being case in point.

The Bougrier family have been farmers in the Loire for six generations and make a wide variety of wines. You don’t need to know any French to see that this label means “Sophie’s Secrets”! Grapes are reserved from the family’s best plots. After fermentation the young wines are aged on fine lees (basically dead yeast cells, but no skins) to give added compexity and depth.

On the nose this wine is refined, mineral and elegant – classier than a typical Touraine. The palate is tangy, with grapefuit, gooseberry and green pepper notes, though not as raw as others; it’s the lees ageing in full effect. There’s Sauvignon’s usual fresh, acidic finish which brings the wine back into focus.

ABV: 12.5%
RRP: €13.99 down from €19.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Caves Molière Entracte Piquepoul 2024

Caves Molière Picpoul bottle shot

We’re back into coop territory again, this time from the Languedoc in the south of France. Piquepoul has muscled-in on the fresh, easy-drinking white wine space that Pinot Grigio had to itself for a while. For me they can be somewhat generic, meaning I find it difficult to differentiate one Piquepoul from another, but I’m always willing to try!

Caves Molière is a “super co-op”, meaning it was formed from five existing co-operative producers. It now has 410 growers with a total of 2,200 hectares of wines under its banner. These wines fall under five labels: AOP Languedoc Penezas, IGP Pays Côtes de Thongues,  IGP Pays de Caux, IGP Pays d’Oc and Vin de France.

Entracte Piquepoul is one of 13 different wines that Caves Molière make in the Pays d’Oc, of which seven are varietal Entracte label wines. The nose is saline and mineral, which evokes the lagoons close to the coast. Those notes continue through onto the tangy palate, with juicy citrus and hints of melon (only hints, though) on the mid palate.

This is a refreshing wine that is somewhat reminiscent of a Loire Sauvignon, but more restrained. It is definitely more expressive than a typical Piquepoul, so worth a try.

ABV: 12.0%
RRP: €12.99 down from €18.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Domaine Duffour Père et Fils Côtes de Gascogne 2024

Duffour Père et fils Côtes de Gascogne bottle shot

Gascony’s best known beverages are probably its Armagnacs rather than its table wines. Indeed, two of the three grapes in this blend – Ugni Blanc and Colombard – are better known for their use in brandy production. Gros Manseng is the third grape, firmly rooted in the south west. The wine is produced at the Duffour family’s Domaine Saint-Lannes operation, one they have owned since 1955.

The nose is grassy and herby, so much that I had to check the assemblage as Sauvignon Blanc is also permitted in Côtes de Gascogne wines. The palate is vastly different, a revelation of intensely juicy fruit. There’s every kind of tropical fruit you can think of in here, but all bound together by a fresh acidic structure. With so much pleasure in the glass, I’d buy this without hesitation at the regular price, so it goes without saying that it’s a total steal at just €10 on promotion.

ABV: 11.0%
RRP: €10.00 down from €14.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

If you didn’t already notice, these wines are all fairly modest in alcohol, ranging between 11.0% and 12.5%, making them perfect for a lunchtime tipple during the holidays.

Quality and enjoyment wise, I would be perfectly happy to sup any of these. In terms of drinking pleasure and value for money, there is a clear winner for me. Regular readers will express no surprise when I say that the aromatic blend from Domaine Duffour is the one that’s going in my fridge – it’s a cracker!

Retail Promotion Events

Perfect Pinots from O’Briens

admin

To kick off my reviews of the wines on promotion at O’Briens this winter, here’s a look at four Pinot Noirs, four from Burgundy and one from the USA.

Why Pinot Noir

In terms of seasons, Pinot Noir is more autumnal than a classic winter red variety. Compared to Bordeaux and Rhône varieties, Pinot Noir is lighter and, while often great with food, is easier to drink on its own. This makes it a great choice as a sipping wine, especially as it very rarely comes with a blockbuster alcohol content.

What it does have is the combination of lightness and fresh acidity which makes it perfect for pairing with both red meat and poulty at the table (and plenty of vegetarian options, for that matter.) Here in Ireland the most common Xmas dinner is turkey and ham with all the trimmings, so Pinot is perfect.

For the wine geek there’s an additional attraction; Pinot Noir is very expressive of the place in which it is grown, just as Riesling is among white varieties. Pinot was one of the two varieties which Burgundian monks used to map out the demarcations of vineyards by the differences in character in the wines that they yielded. This terroir transparency is increasingly utilised in the new world, though has a long way to catch up.

So now onto the wines themselves:

Seguin-Manuel Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022

Seguin-Manuel Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022 bottle shot

Having talked about the terroir-transparency of Pinot Noir, it’s also important to note that the producer of a particular bottle is also key in Burgundy. Domaine Seguin-Manuel was founded back in 1824 and today has a compact and bijoux eight and a half hectares of vineyards across the Côte d’Or. The Domaine was bought by Thibaut Marion – himself a tenth generation winemaker – in 2004, with a focus on continuously improving quality and expressing the local terrior.

This simple Bourgogne includes fruit from more prestigious appellations. Declassifying fruit like this improves the quality of the posher wine (only the best berries are kept for that) and the humbler wine (as the grapes blended into the basic cuvée are still better than those from the basic appellation. This is the Burgundy equivalent of the second (and sometimes third) wines of the Médoc’s top chateaux.

The result in the glass is a red Burgundy with more structure and depth than we’d have any right to expect. It has floral and red fruit notes on the nose, with a juicy and thick palate. This is definitely more of a winter Pinot than a summer Pinot – and all the better for it in my opinion.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €27.99 down from €29.95 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Domaine Antoine Olivier Santenay Temps des C(e)rises 2023

Santenay Rouge Le Temps des C(e)rises bottle shot

Santenay is an appellation surrounding the village of the same name in the Côte de Beaune, the southern half of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. Around 85% of production is red and the balance white, with the usual Pinot Noir and Chardonnay taking the respective lead roles. What is relatively unusual is that the AOC regulations allow Pinot Blanc to be used for whites, and up to 15% Pinot Blanc and / or Pinot Gris used for red wines. There are no Grand Cru climats within Santenay and a dozen Premier Crus.

Antoine Olivier follows in the footsteps of his winemaking father and grandfather, taking over in 2003. The Domaine has been slowly expanded to include sites in the nearby villages of Savigny, Pommard and Rully, and has included replanting in previously abandoned vineyard sites. Antoine is now the most significant producer of Santenay Blanc.

This Santenay Rouge has a lifted, floral nose with fragrant red fruits. The titular cherries appear on the palate, along with strawberries and raspberries. This is the proper Burgundy experience in a glass. It’s not cheap, but you pay for the elegance and delight in it.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €34.99 down from €40.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022

la crema sonoma coast pinot noir bottle shot

Sideways fans will think of the Santa Barbara area for California Pinot, but the Sonoma Coast also does well with the variety. The AVA is at the western part of Sonoma County, running along the Pacific coast. There are nine sub-regions of which the Russian River Valley AVA is the most well known. Cool coastal breezes and banks of chilly fog both help to reduce temperatures compared to further inland.

La Crema makes wines in five regions in the northern half of California – from Monterey up to Anderson Valley – plus Willamette Valley in Oregon. Their Sonoma Coast wines include “regional” bottlings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, topped by single vineyard expressions of each variety.

This Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is intensely aromatic, with punnets of fresh red fruits and a few black berries too. The palate is also complex, with bright fruits and mocha notes. There’s spice here too, though everything is well balanced and harmonious. If your opinion of California wines is that they lack subtlety then you owe it to yourself to try this wine.

  • ABV: 13.5%
  • RRP: €30.99 down from €40.99 via the O’Briens app in December
  • Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Seguin-Manuel Nuits-Saint-Georges “Vieilles Vignes” 2021

Seguin-Manuel Nuits Saint Georges Vieilles Vignes bottle shot

Seguin-Manuel bottle over 50 different wines, including seven Grands Crus. This old vine Nuits-Saint-Georges sits somewhere around the middle of the range in terms of quality – but this is no middling wine. The vines are over 30 years old and sit on clay and limestone soils south of the town itself. After hand harvesting, the grapes are pressed and allowed to ferment over two and a half weeks. The young wine is then matured for 14 months in a mix of new (25%) and older (75%) oak casks.

Just a sniff of this wine is enough to let you know it’s the real deal. When wine geeks talk about the chase for great Burgundy, this is what they mean. Everything is lifted, heightened, powerful, yet purposeful. It tastes just heavenly, but the experience is more about how it makes you feel – special. This is a special wine that would make an amazing Xmas treat.

  • ABV: 13.0%
  • RRP: €65 down from €79 in the O’Briens December Fine Wine Sale
  • Source: O’Briens stores

Conclusion

These wines are all at appropriate price points, and you really do get what you pay for. The La Crema is a total bargain at the promotional price, but the Nuits-Saint-George is a really special wine that would make an amazing gift for any Pinot fan.

Make Mine A Double

SuperValu French Wine Sale 2025 (3) Classic whites

admin

So far from the 2025 edition of the SuperValu French Wine Event we’ve had a standout red from the Rhône and a pair of party wines.

Now we have a pair of classic white wines. I’ve tasted and even reviewed several previous vintages of these wines

Domaine de Terres Blanches “Alchimie” Coteaux Giennois Sauvignon Blanc 2023

Coteaux du Giennois Alchimie bottle shot

From a lesser-known Loire appellation comes this great value Sauvignon Blanc. You’d hope that an AOC without the cachet of its famous neighbours (Sancerre and others) would be more moderately priced, and thankfully that’s the case.

In the glass it shows a light lemon colour with green flecks, reflecting the variety and relatively young age. The nose has notes of freshly-mown grass, grapefuit, green pepper, lemon and lime.

The palate is initially tangy, though not sharp. The mid palate is delightful, with a mix of tangy green elements and an interlaced web of light tropical notes. Everything is woven together in a fine mesh, such that no single element stands out from the blend. It’s wrapped up by a precise, clean finish.

This is a great example of Loire Sauvignon, falling midway between entry level Touraines and premium Sancerres.

  • RRP: €15 down to €10 in the SuperValu French Wine Event (Thurs 4th Sept to Weds 24th Sept)
  • ABV: 12.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

André Goichot Chablis 2023

André Goichot Chablis bottle shot

André Goichot is a negociant business, buying grapes throughout Burgundy for their own label. This AOC Chablis is their bread and butter, and given the price rises in Bourgogne wines over the past half decade, it’s a great way to get into the area’s wine.

The colour of this Chablis is mid lemon, a tiny bit darker than the Alchimie, most probably just down to the difference in grape varieties (this is, of course, a Chardonnay). A good sniff reveals roundness but not plumpness; there’s a little melon and pear, and a whole range of apples. It’s like an orchard on the nose.

The palate is round again, but with a crisp finish. This is riper than some of the Chablis of yesteryear, but it’s still identifiably Chablis – “typique”, as the locals would say. Even with global warming, this northern outpost of Burgundy is on the leaner side.

  • RRP: €21 down to €15 in the SuperValu French Wine Event (Thurs 4th Sept to Weds 24th Sept)
  • ABV: 12.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Conclusion

In my opinion these two wines are of about the same quality and offer good value for money at their sale prices. I’d probably hesitate to buy the Chablis at it’s full price, but the Alchimie is a great little quaffer even at €15. At the offer price, I’d be emptying the shelves of the Alchimie!

 

 

 

 

 

Make Mine A Double

SuperValu French Wine Event 2025 (2) Party Fizz

admin

As a dedicated wine geek with a serious interest in wine, I sometimes have to remind myself that some people – probably the majority of wine drinkers, in fact – don’t take wine as seriously. Many folk just like a glass of wine to relax or while having fun with friends.

It is in that spirit that I present two more wines from the 2025 SuperValu French Wine Event, both sparkling:

Louis Couturier Crémant de Bordeaux Brut Blanc NV

 

Louis Couturier Crémant de Bordeaux NV bottle shot

Bordeaux is one of the eight French wine regions that produce a Crémant, but these traditional method sparkling wines receive little publicity compared to the reds, or even the whites, of the region. Unlike many of the other Crémant AOCs, the permitted grape varieties are the same as those for still wines, with no exception made for Chardonnay which can be so useful for making fizz.

This example is made from 90% Merlot, the most widely planted black grape, with 10% Sémillon, the most widely planted white grape. Early removal from the Merlot skins ensures that this remains a white and not a rosé.

Just as Merlot is known for producing fruit-driven reds, so it is here in this Crémant; red cherries, strawberries and raspberries flow through the mid-palate, with a lemon edge provided by the Semillon. The 12 grams of residual sugar are on the high side for modern Crémants, but they reinforce the fruitiness.

This wine is not aimed at Champagne enthusiasts, but it would be great for Prosecco fans who want to try something a little more serious, but still very approachable and very drinkable.

  • RRP: €22 down to €15 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 12.0%
  • RS: 12.0 g/L
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Screaming Devil Bubbalicious Rose Spritz NV

Screaming Devil Bubbalicious Rosé Spritz bottle shot

Whereas the Crémant above is made during the traditional method, and the vast majority of Prosecco is made with the less expensive tank method, this bottle discloses no information on how the bubbles were produced. And that is fine! I suspect the bubbles might even be added by carbonation (a.k.a. the “soda stream method”). And that is also fine. Because the target market for this wine don’t give a hoot.*

So what is this wine? It’s an off-dry, lightly sparkling rosé. And it’s fun! And delicious! The palate is crammed full of cherries and strawberries, more than seems possible without throwing in a few actual fruits. The residual sugar isn’t mentioned, but given the calories per glass I reckon it’s somewhere around 11.5 g/L – and that sugar emphasizes the fruit rather than coming across as sugariness.

The screwcap makes it ideal for enjoying a glass or two then putting it back in the fridge.

  • RRP: €10 down to €8 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 10.0%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie

Conclusion

The Louis Couturier is good value at the offer price of €15, though at the regular price of €22 I’d personally spend a little more and buy the Arthur Metz Crémant d’Alsace. For Prosecco drinkers looking to trade up to something a little more elegant then it really fits the bill.

At a regular price of €10 or offer price of €8 the Bubbalicious is well worth a punt. I’d share a picture of its lovely pink colour, but my bottle was finished too quickly!

* Just like Honey Badger – ask Randall

Single Bottle Review

SuperValu French Wine Event 2025 (1) Rémy Ferbras Vacqueras

admin

It’s that time of year again, time for the SuperValu French Wine Event.

My friends at SuperValu sent me several wines to try, and this was my favourite by a margin, so it deserves a post all of its own.

Rémy Ferbras Vacqueras 2022

Remy Ferbras Vacqueyras bottle shot

Vacqueras is generally considered to be the third-ranked AOC of the Southern Rhône, behind the world famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape and then Gigondas. Living in the shadow of such an estimed neighbour might make it harded for vignerons to sell their wine, but it does represent good value for those drinkers in the know.

Red wines in the Rhône méridional are often blends of Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvèdre, known as a GSM blend for short. The percentage in each wine varies – and can be augmented by any of the appelations 18 (!) permitted varieties – but is often 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. The exact blend for this wine isn’t given, but as the grapes are mentioned in the GSM order we can assume that the assemblage is close to the usual.

Located at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains, one of the most important topographical features of the Southern Rhône, the soils of Vacqueras are composed of clay and sand with rolled galet stones. Clay gives the wines power, sand gives smoothness and galet stones add power. Like many producers, Rémy Ferbras makes wines from a host of different AOCs, including big brother Châteauneuf-du-Pape (which is listed at €30 at SuperValu).

The grapes are harvested when fully ripe, then sorted to remove any unhealthy berries. After destemming, the grapes are crushed then vinified separately. Alcoholic fermentaiton is temperture controlled between 26°C and 28°C with 3 weeks of maceration. The young wines are then aged in a mixture of stainless steel tank, barrels and demi-muids. Grenache is not a fan of oxygen so my guess is that the Grenache is aged in steel and the other varieties are aged in wood. All the elements are blended together before bottling.

In the glass this Vacqueras looks vibrant, juicy and inviting. The nose is (unironically) intoxicating, warming and enticing. It shows deep black and red fruits (from the Grenache) with exotic spices from the Syrah.

The palate is rich, comforting and cosseting; velvet and heady, even hedonistic. There’s luscious, tangy fruit and some black olive notes coming in from the Mourvèdre, and just a little bit of vanilla from the partial fermentation in oak. There’s a natural aspect to this wine, though it’s not what you’d expect from a “natural wine”; more that it tastes like a wine made in a winery rather than a factory, which isn’t always the case at this price point.

Conclusion

This is SuperValu’s wine of the month, and that’s a great choice in my opinion. I think it’s a good buy at the regular price of €20, but at the promotional price of €10 it’s an absolute steal!

  • RRP: €20 down to €10 in the SuperValu French Wine Event (Thurs 4th Sept to Weds 24th Sept)
  • ABV: 14.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: SuperValu stores and supervalu.ie
Make Mine A Double

O’Briens Summer Sips (2) Juicy reds

admin

After two fresh whites, now it’s time to look at a couple of juicy red wines in the O’Briens French wine sale:

Belles Eaux Gloriette Syrah 2022

wine label

Belles Eaux is another Languedoc producer bottled by Les Grands Chais de France (GCF). Whereas Château wines are AOC, those without the prefix are simpler varietal IGP wine.

For those not aware – and that group included myself until very recently – a Gloriette is an outdoor room, raised above its surroundings. Francophiles might twig that Gloriette is the diminutive of “Gloire”, an alternative word for “room” in French.

Syrah is an important grape in the Languedoc, though rarely seen as a single varietal – it’s often blended with Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault, among others. This is a clean, unoaked and fruit forward example. Given the ample 13.5% alcohol, one might think that this is a bold and weighty wine, but it’s actually more medium in heft, and a little lighter in colour than typical for the grape.

There’s fruit and spice here, but it’s red cherry rather than warmer climate Shiraz’s blackberry and black cherry. On a warm day this was a tasty and refreshing wine after being chilled for 30 minutes. If you’re not a rosé lover then this makes for a great outdoor alternative.

  • RRP: €14.95 down to €10.00 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 13.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Belles Eaux Mistral Merlot 2023

wine label

This Merlot is named after the Mistral wind which hits the Languedoc and Provence from the south. It’s somewhat bigger and bolder than it’s Syrah counterpart above – deeper in colour, a little higher in alcohol and more weighty. There’s even a little tannin on the finish which helps keeep the fruit from becoming too jammy.

Although obviously not suitable for Merlot-avoiders, this is a very quaffable wine that is enjoyable on its own or with hearty food…it’s barbecue season at the moment so worth buying while on offer.

  • RRP: €14.95 down to €10.00 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 14.0%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

I really liked both of these wines, and I think they are worth the regular price tag. Choosing between them is a preference of style rather than a difference in quality. At the offer price I’d snap both of them up!

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Make Mine A Double

O’Briens Summer Sips (1) Fresh whites

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The 2025 French wine sale is underway at O’Briens so I thought I’d take the opportunity to try out a few of the wines on offer. Not the most expensive, but the most moderately priced, and, most importantly, new to me. Here are a pair of fresh whites:

La Baume La Grande Olivette Pays d’Oc Albariño 2023

Wine label

When I first got into wine, La Baume wines were great value Languedoc offerings in my local Sainsbury’s. On the evidence of this bottle, that still seems to be the case.

Wines labelled just “La Baume” appear to be negotiant wines, bottled at a large facility owned by parent Les Grands Chais de France (GCF). Those with “Domaine de la Baume” are made on the property of the original winery, from their own fruit, and carry a correspondingly higher price tag.

“La Grande Olivette” simply means “The Large Olive Tree”, evoking the Mediterranean landscape.

But then we come to the elephant in the room – Albariño! This Spanish variety is rarely seen in France, though it has recently been added to the list of permitted grapes in Bordeaux on an experimental basis. In Spain it is most well known in Galicia, and at its best in the region of Rías Baixas close to the Atlantic coast. It also thrives as Alvarinho over the border into Portugal.

So how does this French example compare? It’s quite aromatic on the nose, but clean and fresh on the palate. There’s citrus and stone fruit here, though not as ripe and juicy as some examples of Albariño. It does have the mineral and saline characteristics of the variety, though, and could even pass for a dry Riesling. On a warm summer day it went down a treat, and was praised by several guests who also tasted it.

  • RRP: €16.95 down to €12.95 in the French wine sale
  • ABV: 12.5%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

La Salette Blanc Côtes de Gascogne 2024

Wine label

Gascogne, or Gascony in English, is the far south western part of France. It’s more well known for Armagnac than for table wine, but it’s the exception to the rules that if a region produces grape-based drinks other than table wine – think Sherry, Champagne, Cognac – then the table wines are sub-par.

Many of the grapes grown here originated here, and are rarely seen elsewhere. Even when some interloping Sauvignon Blanc is included in a blend, however, the wines still reflect their geographic origin.

Domaine Duffour was founded by Michel in 1982 and is still a family concern.

Like this example they are often light-ish in alcohol, unoaked and full of juicy fruits. In fact, there’s more fruit here than you’ve got any right to expect at this price. On the attack there are tropical mango, pineapple and with a zippy fresh finish. Many would guess it to be a Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s actually made from local heroes Colombard and Gros Manseng.

This is a wonderful wine which tastes on par with wines costing far more.

  • RRP: €14.95 down to €10.00 in French wine sale
  • ABV: 11.0%
  • Source: sample
  • Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie

Conclusion

This was quite an easy choice for me.

The Albariño is good but not great, a little short on fruit for my taste. It’s definitely worth trying, and good value at the offer price, but I think I’d choose other wines of the same variety when it’s listed at full price.

I’ve often said that Côtes de Gascogne whites are the best value on the market, and La Salette is a fantastic example. I’d pay the full price without blinking, and the offer price makes it a steal. It’s the taste of summer in a glass!

 

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Single Bottle Review, Tasting Events

Balnaves Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon [Wine Review]

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I recently attended Liberty Wines Ireland’s Autumn Portfolio Tasting, and while I focused on new additions to their portfolio (watch this space), I couldn’t resist trying an iconic Aussie red, Balnaves Coonawarra Cab

Coonawarra

Coonawarra, as some regular readers might know, is my favourite red wine region in the world. It is home to one of the most identifiable and excellent Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, though  Shiraz, red blends and Chardonnay also do well here. What is the Coonawarra style? Basically it’s blackcurrant and mint / menthol / eucalyptus, all entwined around a robust structure. The wines often need several years to approach their drinking windows, but then “all good things…” More accessible styles are also made, to be drunk when younger; for example, Katnook Estate’s Founders Block and Wynns’ The Gables.

So what makes Coonawarra so special? It’s a combination of things, but principly it’s the soil – terra rossa over limestone – and a relatively (for South Australia) cool climate. Terra Rossa is a clay and silt dominated soil that drains well and has a neutral pH. The Coonawarra strip is a cigar shape which follows the main Riddoch highway north to south – or more accurately, the highway follows the top of the ridge as it’s the firmest and best-drained route.

Grapes were first planted by John Riddoch (after who the highway was named) back in 1890, though until the middle of the twentieth century they were mainly used for Shiraz-based fortified wines. This situation began to change with the purchase of Riddoch’s original cellars and some land by Samuel Wynn in 1951. Along with Penfolds, Wynns was a major force behind the transformation of the Australian wine industry and the move away from fortifieds. Wynns Estate’s top Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon is also named after John Riddoch.

Balnaves

The Balnaves family planted their first vines in the south of Coonawarra in 1975. Since then they have expanded their holdings to 58 hectares, of which around 40 hectares are Cabernet Sauvignon. For the first twenty years they were highly regarded contract growers rather than full-on wine producers, but that changed with the recruitment of former Wynns winemaker Pete Bissell and construction of their winery. He “retired” in 2020 but still works as consultant winemaker with head winemaker Jacinta Jenkins. The Balnaves family are still involved, as second generation Doug and his children Pete and Kirsty run the business and manage a further 300 hectares of Coonawarra vines for other growers.

Their vines are organised into small blocks of one to two hectares, depending on aspect, vine age, grape variety, specific soil types and other qualities. Picking and vinifying them separately gives the winemakers a detailed palette from which to build complex and appropriately structured wines. The best Cabernet grapes in the best years go into a bottle called “The Tally”, named after the book for recording the number of sheep sheared by a shearer in a two hour period. When I visited various Coonawarra cellar doors back in 2000 I overhead locals discussing their livestock as well as their vines – both are part of the way of life there.

Balnaves Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Balnaves Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 bottle shot

For the 2019 vintage Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were selected from the Dead Morris and Old Paulownia blocks, co-fermented with 4.8% Dunstan Petit Verdot. Maturation was for 18 months in French oak barrels, just over half of which was new. This oak regime does not overwhelm the fruit, however, but rather helps to add structure, perfume and elegance.

The wine is classic, and classy…somewhere in between the restraint of Pauillac and the power of South Australia’s warmer regions. The nose has intense notes of cassis and blackberry, surrounded with pencil shavings and vanilla. There’s no mistaking this for anything other than Cabernet. These notes continue onto the palate which is rich but not jammy – acidity and tannins keep everything in order.

A fantastic example of Coonawarra Cabernet!

  • ABV: 14.5%
  • RS: 0.4 g/L
  • RRP: €41.99
  • Stockists: wineonline.ie, Thomas Woodberrys Wines, Blackrock Cellar, The 1601, Matson’s
  • Other Balnaves wines available in Ireland: Coonawarra Cabernet / Merlot (blend), “The Tally” Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon

 

Single Bottle Review, Tasting Events

Giant Steps “Applejack Vineyard” Yarra Valley Chardonnay [Wine Review]

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Another Aussie favourite from Liberty Wines is this gem from the Yarra Valley

Yarra Valley

In my piece on Mount Pleasant Lovedale I noted that the Hunter Valley is close to Sydney; the Yarra Valley is close to another of Australia’s great cities, Melbourne. In fact the Yarra River flows right through the city and into Port Phillip Bay. Vines were first planted way back (in Australian terms) in 1838 at Yering Station.

Being so southerly and close to the ocean it has a cool climate, making it best suited to Burgundian varieties, as both still and sparkling wine (Moët & Chandon has an outpost here, Domaine Chandon). There’s very little bulk wine here, with the focus on quality. I had the pleasure of a day trip round Yarra Valley wineries as part of a friend’s stag weekend in 2003, and the wines were all impressive.

Giant Steps

Giant Steps was founded by serial beverage entrpreneur Phil Sexton. As a brewer himself, he started with breweries in Western Australia, then moved into wine with Devil’s Lair in Margaret River. After selling that, in 1997 he moved east to the Yarra with his winemaker wife. There he set up two complimentary wine ventures: Innocent Bystander as a small to medium sized label for bought-in grapes and Giant Steps for premium estate grown wines. He sold the former in 2016, then Giant Steps was bought by California outfit Jackson Family Estates in 2020. Finally (for now!) he came back full circle to relaunch his first brand – Matilda Bay – with current owners Carlton & United Breweries.

Giant Steps continues under the experienced guidance of Melanie Chester and Steve Flamsteed. They continue with the single vineyard expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the best vintages, but also the “regional” Yarra Valley bottlings which are important ambassadors for the area.

Applejack Vineyard

Applejack Vineyard
Credit: Giant Steps (Instagram)

The Applejack Vineyard is located in the Upper Yarra, east of Melbourne and between 180 and 260 metres above sea level. Whereas the Upper Yarra is mostly volcanic soil, the Applejack has clay loam which keeps yields low and quality high. It spans 12.5 hectares and was planted with both varieties on an east-facing site in 1997, though it only became part of Giant Steps in 2013. Giant Steps only bottle the wines as a single vineyard in better years, otherwise the juice is blended into the regional Yarra Valley wine.

Giant Steps “Applejack Vineyard” Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2022

Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 bottle shot

Grapes were entirely hand-harvested and sorted. before undergoing a whole bunch press. Then the juice is transferred into 500 litre French oak barrels for fermentation with indigenous yeast. The lees are stirred only for the first month, and then the wine matured for eight further months in a mix of new (20%) and previously used (80%) tight grain French 225 litre barriques, and finally gentle bottling by gravity.

The nose has aromas of apple, soft stone fruits and a touch of spice from the oak. On the palate it’s fresh and tangy, with light citrus notes joining the fray. There’s structure here, but the wine is still light and ethereal – as evidenced by the relatively low alcohol. Overall the verdict is: so damned tasty!

A quick discussion on the price of this wine: €70, less a cent. Does this seem a lot for an Aussie Chardonnay, when you might be able to pick up an Aussie Chardonnay for €15? That would only be a fair comparison if we regard the category as a uniform commodity, and I certainly don’t. The Giant Steps “Standard” Yarra Valley Chardonnay is under €50 in independents, so is this worth a substantial premium on that? Again I’d argue that they are different wines, and although neither are cheap, they are very premium wines that are worth their price tags. If we look at the incredible price rises from Burgundy over the past few years then I’d argue that they represent good value!

  • ABV: 12.5%
  • RRP: €69.99
  • Stockists: Avoca, Blackrock Cellar
  • Other Giant Steps wines available in Ireland: Yarra Valley Chardonnay, “Sexton Vineyard” Yarra Valley Chardonnay, “Tarraford Vineyard” Yarra Valley Chardonnay, Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, “Applejack Vineyard” Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, “Primavera Vineyard” Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, “Wombat Creek Vineyard” Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, “Fatal Shore” Coal River Valley Pinot Noir