Sauvignon Blanc makes very popular easy-drinking wines across the globe, but in the right places and in the right hands it can make serious and interesting wines.
Here are three from O’Briens, one from Bordeaux which is a blend, and two from opposite sides of the Loire River.
Domaine de Bel Air Pouilly-Fumé 2023
You don’t have to be a Fresh Prince to drink this wine, though you may end up feeling fresh if you imbibe too much! OK, I’ll lay off the dad jokes now.
Pouilly-Fumé is less well known than its competitor across the river, but can produce some excellent wines. Its soils have consistently more flint than Sancerre which gives a typical wine more smokey (“fumé”) characteristics. And of course, less renown often means a lower price tag for the same quality, and I’m all for that.
Domaine de Bel Air covers 14 hectares and is farmer sustainably by the Maroy family. The grapes for this wine come from vines planted on three different soil types (stoney “caillotte” limestone, marly “terre blanches” limestone and flint). This blend of origins gives the wine a complex palate – citrus, orchard fruit and smoky mineral notes. It has a little more flesh than a Sancerre, making it a rounder and less lean wine. This is a great example of Pouilly-Fumé!
- ABV: 13.5%
- RRP: €21.99 down from €25.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
- Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie
Château Villa de Bel-Air Graves Blanc 2023
The Graves region of south west Bordeaux has actually been making quality wine for far longer than its northern neighbour the Médoc, primarily down to the later being naturally swampy and therefore unsuitable for viticulture. For centuries since the draining of the swamp, Graves – including its premium sub-region of Pessac-Léognan – have played second fiddle to their northerly neighbours. But this lack of recognition is a bonus for wine lovers who can find well made wines at good prices. As this wine itself shows, that includes white wines; Graves is the main source of premium dry wines in Bordeaux.
Château Villa Bel-Air has origins in the 1700s and lies on gravel soils in the centre of the Graves region. It’s a blend of the two most important white varieties in Bordeaux: Sauvignon Blanc (65%) and Sémillon (35%). The grapes are only part of the story; fermentation in oak and maturation on fine lees give roundness, richness and complexity to the palate. It doesn’t result in a buttery mess, however, as the acidity from the Sauvignon gives freshness and balance.
On pouring, the oak is noticeable on the nose, though likely very few of the oak barrels were new as there is restraint in their power. There’s fruit there, too, with citrus and light melon notes. The palate is lovely and round, with green and yellow fruit intermingled with oak notes.
The Pesac-Léognan sub-region was created for good reason, but this is a Graves that would be worthy of that label in terms of quality. Even staunch Burgundy fans owe it to themselves to try this wine.
- ABV: 13.0%
- RRP: €21.99 down from €25.99 from 28th Oct 25 to 5th Jan 2025
- Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie
Henri Bourgeois ES-56 Silex Sancerre 2022
Domaine Henri Bourgeois is a standout producer from the central Loire. Among the many wines made by the Domaine, this Sancerre is a real standout. The grapes are sourced solely from vines grown on silex (flint) soils which were formed 56 million years ago, known as the Eocene period, giving this bottle its name.
After picking and pressing, part of the must is fermented in stainless steel tanks (to retain freshness) and part is fermented in Tronçais oak barrels. the young wine matures on fine lees – which are stirred periodically – for seven to eight months.
The nose is intensely mineral and smoky, and really couldn’t be anything else. The palate also has delicious smoky notes, with a tang from the oak as well as a citrus tang from the fruit itself. The oak ageing and lees stirring add lots of texture to the wine, making it quite savoury in nature.
At three years from harvest this is already opening nicely, but should continue to evolve for another five to seven years. It’s definitely not for the casual drinker, and is carries a premium price, but is an amazing example of what can be done with the grape.
- ABV: 13.5%
- RRP: €33.99 down from €43.99 in the O’Briens December Fine Wine Sale
- Source: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie
Conclusion
While having a grape in common, these wines are entirely different in style. The Pouilly-Fumé is unoaked and straight forward, though very tasty. The Graves is more complex and even better value. The Sancerre is an amazing wine, one of the best I tried at the O’Briens tasting, and it’s the one I will be picking up for myself.
