I recently got to try a really tasty Spanish red from a little known region of Catalonia. Before we look at the wine itself, we have to look at: Where is Montsant? and What are Montsant wines like?
Montsant is an under-appreciated wine region in Catalonia, almost completely surrounding the more famous Priorat. It was formerly part of the Falset subzone of the Tarragona DO and only appeared on labels from 2002. Montsant has prospered under its own name, increasing from 28 Bodegas in 2002 to 55 in 2020. In contrast, the Priorat DO was created in 1954 and upgraded to DOQ (under Catalan regulations, anyway) from 2000.
Montsant production focuses on red wines which account for 94% of the total made. Grapes used are a combination of local and international varieties: Garnatxa Negra, Carinyena (Carignan), Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo), Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The small amount of white wine mainly uses local varieties: Garnatxa Blanca, Macabeu / Viura, Moscatell d’Alexandria and Xarel·lo…plus the omni-present Chardonnay.
As might be expected in a region with “Mont” in the name, elevation ranges significantly: vineyards are planted between 200 and 700 metres. There are three main soil types: chalky clay, granitic sand and slate, each rendering a different profile to wines made thereon. Many Montsant wines are powerful in both body and alcohol, in a similar style to Priorat wines, especially if made with old Garnatxa and / or Carinyena vines.
Celler Coca i Fitó
The Coca i Fitó winery is owned and managed by Catalan brothers Toni and Miquel Coca i Fitó. Toni is a well established winemaker and is Technical Director at the Celler Cooperatiu de Gandesa in the nearby DO Terra Alta; in fact, the co-ops facilities are used to make some of the brothers’ local white wines (see below). A variety of fermentation vessels are used: stainless steel tanks, concrete eggs, amphorae, standard and large format oak barrels.
Although the contents of each bottle are the key, the labels of each are specially designed by Oriol Malet and Jaume Coca:
Each design has been created to convey the essence of the wine by describing the sensations that they provoke, whether it be freshness, typicity or other sensorial experiences.
The company’s wine ranges (in addition to olive oil!) are:
- Coca i Fitó: the company’s flagship wines, including blends, varietals and special wines from DO Montsant and DO Terra Alta
- Jaspi: more accessible wines from young(er) vines in DO Montsant and DO Terra Alta
- Samsara Priorat: a joint venture with Eva Escudé and the Vives brothers, creating a modern style of Priorat
- Tocat de l’Ala: a joint venture in DO Empordà with Roig Parals
- Tolo do Xisto: a joint venture in DO Ribeira Sacra with Andrea Obenza
- Aloja: a new range of softer wines from DO Montsant and DO Terra Alta
Coca i Fitó Negre Montsant 2012
Even smelling the cork was enough to let me know that this wine was going to be special – a rare occurrence. Perhaps the eight or so years maturing in bottle helped. The blend for this wine is 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache (both from 60 – 70 year old vines) and 20% Carignan (from 20 – 30 year old vines). The grapes are picked from a single vineyard with limestone soils. After fermentation the wine is aged between 12 to 14 months, vintage dependant, in new French oak (90%) and American oak barrels (10%)
Despite its age this wine almost opaque in the glass; quite fitting for a wine called “negre”. The nose shows lifted aromatics of dark black fruits and spices, with strong hints of oak ageing. The palate is powerful, rich and voluptuous, with sweet blackberry, cassis and plum fruits to the fore. This 2012 is only just hitting its straps and has many years left to go. At this price it’s a real bargain.
- ABV: 14.5%
- RRP: €35.95
- Source: sample
- Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie