WineMason is an Irish wine importer run by husband and wife team Ben Mason and Barbara Boyle MW. They specialise in wines from Germany, Portugal and Austria, but their expanding portfolio now encompasses France, South Africa, Spain and Italy.
Here are four of the Germanic whites (three from Germany, one from Austria) that I really enjoyed at their tasting earlier this year.
Geil Rheinhessen Pinot Blanc 2016 (12.0%, RRP €17 at Baggot St Wines, Clontarf Wines, Lilac Wines, Martin’s Off Licence, Blackrock Cellar, D-Six, Greenman Wines, Listons, McHughs, Mortons Galway, Mortons Ranelagh, Nectar OTGV, Sweeney’s, WWC)
Rheinhessen, sometimes known as Rhine Hesse in English (or Hesse Rhénane in French as on the map above), is the largest of Germany’s 13 wine regions. It produces plenty of ordinary wine, but the best sites in the hands of a good producer can produce fantastic wines. Johannes Geil-Bierschenk is an innovative young producer based in Bechtheim. In particular he focuses on low yields, early pressing of whites and fermentation with indigenous yeast.
Just as in Alsace, Pinot Blanc (also known as Weissburgunder) is usually under-rated in Germany, but here makes for a very appealing and easy-drinking wine. It’s dry and fresh with citrus and stone fruit notes. A long finish seals the deal – and great value at €17
Geil Rheinhessen Riesling 2016 (12.0%, RRP €17 at Baggot St Wines, Clontarf Wines, Lilac Wines, Martin’s Off Licence, Blackrock Cellar, D-Six, Green Man Wines, Listons, McHughs, Mortons Galway, Mortons Ranelagh, Nectar OTGV, Sweeney’s, WWC)
Geil’s most extensive variety is Riesling which is bottled from different terroirs and in different styles. This is the straight forward dry Riesling which – I must whisper quietly – stands up against many similar examples from my beloved Alsace. It has zippy lime and tangy lemon notes – very refreshing indeed!
Max Ferd. Richter Zeppelin Riesling 2015 (11.0%, RRP €18 at The Corkscrew, McHughs, Blackrock Cellar, Mitchells, 64 Wines, Nectar, Martin’s Off Licence, Lilac Wines, Green Man Wines, D-Six)
And so to another German Riesling, but this time from the Mosel and quite different in style. In contrast to the modern Geil labels above and the more traditional ones on the rest of the Max Ferd. Richter range, this has an art deco style label harking back to the time of the Zeppelin airships. The link is no marketing gimmick as wines from Mulheim (Max Fed. Richter’s home) were actually served on the Zeppelins!
So how does it taste? Yum yum yum is the answer! There’s a little bit of residual sugar to balance the acidity and enhance the fruitiness, but it’s by no means a sweet wine. One of the most drinkable wines I’ve had this year!
Groiss Weinviertel Gemischter Satz 2016 (12.5%, RRP €21 at Green Man Wines, The Corkscrew, 64 Wines)
This wine is always a crowd-pleaser – but for a good reason: it’s fab! The 2015 vintage was showing really well when I tasted it at the Ely Big Tasting last year. It’s no ordinary wine though, despite its charms and moderate price tag – it’s a field blend of (at least) 17 different varieties:
Chardonnay, Müller Thurgau, Welschriesling, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Grauburgunder, Pinot Blanc, Frühroter Veltliner, Neuburger, Zierfandler, Rotgipfler, Sämling, Roter Veltliner, Grauer Vöslauer, Hietl Rote, Weiße Vöslauer and Silberweiße.
Winemaker and owner Ingrid Groiss is a firm fan of traditional viticulture and vinification, hence an old-school wine where the different varieties are planted together, harvested at the same time and vinified together. It’s full of tangy peach and apricot but dry, mineral and fresh. This is a wonderful wine that you must try.