I was recently invited to the 2024 launch of the Pommery Champagne Terrace at the Dylan Hotel in Dublin. As a bubbly fanatic I didn’t have to be asked twice! Although I was a guest of Dalcassian, Pommery’s representatives in Dublin, I wasn’t asked to write this article, which contains my opinions only.
The Dylan Hotel is tucked away in Ballsbridge, the only boutique 5 star hotel in Dublin. I have happy memories of a work dinner / wine tasting there some years ago where I was set loose on the wine list.
The Pommery Champagne Terrace
The Terrace is located at the front of the Dylan Hotel, a few feet above road level and protected by a hedge. There are lots of parasols to protect against the morning sun plus dark blue Pommery branded cushions and blankets to stave off a Dublin evening chill.
Of course there is a theme to the drinks list on the terrace, and it’s Pommery Champagne. For the more adventurous there are also three Pommery-based cocktails, including a Bellini (that’s right, changing up from the original recipe with Prosecco!) The real action though is in the different Pommery Cuvées, from the “standard” (I wouldn’t dare call it entry level) Brut Royal all the way up to the iconic Cuvée Louise.
The food menu is casual but high quality, with a seafood bias that’s perfect for chilled Champagne. Of course the cheese is lost on me, but I really enjoyed the charcuterie that I tried.
Champagne Pommery
Monsieur Alexandre-Louis Pommery and his wife Madame Jeanne Alexandrine Pommery had an unexpected addition to their family when she was 38 and he was already retired. Needing a regular income again to raise their child, he decided to go back into business, but this time buying into the booming Champagne trade on top of his textile business. He became a senior partner in Pommery & Greno, with Narcisse Greno continuing as a junior partner.
Sadly Alexandre died only two years later, so Veuve Pommery took over the running of Champagne Pommery herself. She was a formidable businesswoman and very innovative, making a much-derided decision to reduce the houses dosage and produce the first commercially available Brut style in 1874. This proved to be hugely popular in the English market which had less of a sweet tooth than the American and Russian markets. This success gave Pommery enough of a financial cushion to invest in a huge cellar complex, digging into the chalk seams dozens of metres underground.
Fast forward to the present day, and Champagne Pommery remains a Grande Marque and is part of the Vranken-Pommery Monopole group, the second largest in Champagne. Partnering with Hattingley Valley, Pommery also produces English Sparkling Wine under the label Louis Pommery
Today the Champagne Pommery range has 4 lines:
- Royal: Brut Royal, Brut Rosé Royal, Royal Blue Sky, Grand Cru Royal
- Cuvée Apanage: Brut, Rosé, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs
- Cuvée Louise: Brut Millésime, Rosé Millésime, Brut Nature Millésime
- Les Clos Pompadour: A 100% Grand Cru super premium cuvée with Chardonnay from Avize & Cramant and Pinot Noir from Aÿ, aged on the lees en magnum for 15 years
Champagne Pommery Brut Royale NV
So onto the wine itself, the star of the show. The blend is approximately equal thirds of the three main Champange grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, with the precise percentages changing slightly depending on the bottling. The grapes are sourced from a large number of villages around the Champagne region – many of them Grand and Premier Cru – to give the cellarmaster a broad choice of elements with which to make his assemblage.
Ageing in Pommery’s famous cellars takes 36 months, over double the regulatory minimum of 15 months, and enough to gain noticeable leesy character. On the nose it’s the Chardonnay that grabs the attention with fresh lemon and lime notes, but then on the palate there are also appley notes (from the Meunier) and red fruits (from the Pinot Noir). This is a very well put together wine which deserves more recognition for its quality – and has a great story behind it, too.
- ABV: 12.5%
- RRP: €60
- Stockists: O’Briens stores and obrienswine.ie, wineonline.ie, Celtic Whiskey Shop / Wines On The Green,