Following on from part 1 which mainly featured Loire Sauvignon Blancs, this part 2 looks at some of the Bordeaux wines which will feature in the SuperValu French Wine Sale running from 5th to 26th September in store and online. As previously mentioned, the sale includes some “Special Guest Wines” which are available for a limited time only – marked with *.
Château Moulin Lafitte 2014 (12.5%, €18.99 down to €14.00 at SuperValu)
This Château is located just above the River Garonne as it stretches out eastwards after Langon. The soil is mainly clay (80%) which adds power to the wines and makes it perfect for Merlot. The blend of this 2014 is 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. In fact, such is the power and roundness of the wine that it feels significantly higher than its stated 12.5% alcohol. A very nice Claret.
Château Pey La Tour Bordeaux 2016 (14.5%, €19.99 down to €9.99 at SuperValu)
In the Entre-Deux-Mers region again, this time with a Vignobles Dourthe property. Dourthe was founded in 1840 and now have over a dozen Châteaux across Bordeaux plus some two dozen branded wines. The blend for this bottling is 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It results in a soft, fruity wine which is simultaneously smooth and powerful.
Château Sissan Grande Réserve Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2016 (13.5%, €23.99 down to €11.99 at SuperValu)
The Château Sissan estate extends over 25 hectares in Cadillac, Entre-Deux-Mers, just over the River Garonne from Sauternes. It benefits from gravel soil, up to 4 metres deep in places, no doubt left by the Garonne as its course has gradually changed over the centuries. The blend is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon – with more of the latter than normally seen in this part of Bordeaux due to the free draining gravel soil (which is seen in the likes of Pessac-Léognan and Pauillac). The nose is rather spicy (apparently due to the Cab) and interesting. The palate is generous with plush red and black fruit, soft tannins and a spicy finish. Delicious!
Lady De Mour Margaux 2016 (13.0%, €34.99 down to €20.00 at SuperValu)
Left bank Bordeaux is not usually that approachable in its youth, but if any of the top four appellations are worth committing infanticide with then its the supple wines of Margaux. Lady De Mour consists of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot; after fermentation the wine receives 12 to 15 months in French oak, a quarter of which is new. It does taste wonderful but it’s the mouthfeel rather than the specific flavours which really shine – like velvet wrapped in satin! This is amazingly approachable for a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend, but then it is Margaux and the excellent De Mour group (who also produce another favourite Château Tayet)
Château Tour Baladoz Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2015 (14.0%, €44.99 down to €25.00 at SuperValu)
Château Tour Baladoz is situated just three kilometres south east of the village of Saint-Emilion, with 70% of its vines on the plateau and 30% on slopes. Sources differ on the assemblage for the 2015, but given the warm year this seems reasonable: 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. After a cold maceration, each parcel is vinified separately depending on the variety, age of the vine and terroir. Maturation is for 17 months in oak barrels (70% new) sourced from ten (!) different coopers. It has a beautifully fragrant nose which exudes class. The palate shows silky tannins with chewy, soft fruit. This is an accessible but classy wine.
Château La Garde Pessac Léognan Rouge 2010* (14.0%, €49.99 down to €30.00 at SuperValu)
All the reds above have been fairly young, spanning 2014-16. This is something different, a left bank Bordeaux which is starting to mature – and from an excellent vintage too. I tend to think of Pessac wines as having a similar blend to Margaux, which rings true when you compare La Garde to Lady De Mour above: it consists of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Maturation is for 14 months in specially selected barrels, of which a third were new. Tasted from decanter, this was glorious, with notes of graphite, spice, plum, blackberry, and even a savoury meatiness! This is definitely a treat wine which deserves matching with a good meal.
Château Roumieu Sauternes 2014 (14.0%, 375ml, €19.99 down to €10.00 at SuperValu)
Bordeaux does have some great (dry) whites, but the excellence of its sweet wines is even more overlooked. These wines are very expensive to produce, as the grapes are only harvested when the bunch is at the right stage of noble rottenness (is that a word?) necessitating many passes through the vineyard. The amount of juice per vine is also very low as botrytis reduces the water content. But the payoff? Amazing sweet wines.
Château Roumieu has some celebrated next door neighbours in Châteaux Climens and Doisy-Védrines. The blend is fairly typical with 89% Semillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc and 1% Muscadelle. Still in its youth, this 2014 is very intense with marmalade, apricot and floral notes. Obviously a sweet wine – I’d guess north of 100 g/L residual sugar – it is nevertheless nicely balanced and just so lovely to drink!
Graves in part of Bordeaux’s lower left bank, and was in fact making great wines before the Médoc was drained by Dutch engineers. The best areas of the Graves were sectioned off into a new appellation – Pessac-Léognan – in 1987, leaving the remaining area as more everyday producers. And I don’t think I’m being unfair in calling this Baron de Portets an everyday wine – it’s only a tenner after all – but it’s far better than I’d expect from left bank Bordeaux at this price. It’s seductive and smooth with lots of black fruit and a touch of red. A hint of liquorice on the finish keeps it on the savoury side.
